How to properly install sewer pipes. Installation of a drainage system: the main stages of self-assembly of gutters Types of drain pipes
Throughout the Russian climate, frequent precipitation is far from uncommon. And therefore, it is customary to arrange a drain in dwellings, which controls and diverts these precipitations away from the roof itself. If the house stands for a long time without a drainage system, its basement, facade and walls are destroyed. There are longer-term consequences as well: a flooded basement, washed-out ground around the house, and other problems. That's why there should always be a drain!
But if you have just purchased a house or cottage and you have a limited budget, you can temporarily make a drain from sewer pipes with your own hands: this is not difficult, and in practice such a system will be reliable. But such small buildings as a gazebo, a children's house in the garden or a canopy over a car, a home-made drain is quite suitable as the main one. And we will teach you how to do it right!
Do you like the idea, but are you worried about how the sewer pipes will be able to withstand the external atmosphere? After all, they are designed to drain water from the house, and mostly underground, and it is unlikely that the manufacturer will take care that such a plastic material tolerates ultraviolet rays well. But, in fact, many gardeners notice that gray and brown pipe trimmings feel great in the open sun for quite a few years.
Moreover, due to the relative cheapness of sewer pipes, you can build drains of the most complex shapes and for a variety of purposes from them:
Your homemade gutter will serve you faithfully no less than an industrial one if you choose the right material for it. Sewer pipes come in completely different types, for different parts of the drainage system. After all, you know that the drain is internal and external, and the first is used mainly only for flat roofs. It is just well hidden from the sun's rays, and therefore almost any sewer pipes are suitable for its device.
But for a gable or shed roof, it is important for you to learn how to understand the material.
White pipes - for internal drains
White pipes are used for the installation of sewerage systems indoors. Their material is designed mainly for high water temperatures and has a high level of sound insulation.
It is possible to use white pipes as a drain only in those areas where the winter is warm and mild, because. such plastic will not withstand sudden changes in temperature. So for now, forget about this option.
Gray pipes - for warm winters
Gray pipes are the most common. They are also used inside the house, but their plastic is already stronger. It is designed for high temperatures, but does not tolerate frost and physical exertion.
Therefore, if you live in the southern regions of Russia, where the climate is quite mild and there are almost no frosts, it will not be a problem for you: how to make a drain from sewer pipes of this color and how long it will last you. Just do not forget to constantly clean them from snow and ice so that they do not crumble.
Brown pipes - for hard frosts
But brown pipes are used when installing sewerage systems already outside. They are distinguished by a thick wall, which remarkably tolerates sub-zero temperatures and high pressure with a water mass.
The only thing such pipes are not adapted to is the hot water temperature. After all, it is calculated that the sewage runoff from the house, before it enters the brown pipes, after the white and gray ones, is already cooling down, plus the cooler air temperature outside will complete its job. Such pipes perfectly tolerate loads from snow and ice, are strong enough, but do not withstand direct sunlight for a long time and become brittle over time.
Here's what a pretty drain is obtained from a brown sewer pipe:
Home craftsmen are especially pleased with the fact that the price of one sewer pipe is less than that of a gutter of the same length. But from one pipe you get two whole gutters!
How to design a future drainage system?
In terms of terms, a gutter system is a complex of gutters and pipes that collects and removes water from the roof. A gutter system, or drain, is also often called a separate gutter or pipe. And now let's figure out how to make a good drain for your home from the pipes you purchased. First you will need to draw up a sketch and calculate the dimensions of all the details.
How to make a gutter for a pitched roof?
So, you will need a certain number of gutters, which are easy to calculate based on the parameters of the roof perimeter. You will install brackets for every 10 meters, 17 pieces. The outlet has exactly the same length as the sum of the drain pipes. You will also need funnels, pipes, 1 piece for every 10 meters, corner elements, a plug, couplings (exactly 2 times fewer pieces than gutters), elbows, the number of which will depend on the complexity of the eastern system itself.
For you, the easiest option would be to simply draw a diagram of the future plumbing on a piece of paper. So, outlet pipes with funnels are usually installed every 12 meters. If the side of the house is smaller, place them in the corners, and only two of them will be enough. Take waste pipes with a diameter of 50 millimeters, and purchase an adapter tee 110 by 50 mm. The size of one plum can be 10 centimeters, which is quite enough for the roof of a private house. From one pipe you get two trays of the same size.
Next, you will need to muffle each end of the gutter. Take a revision plug or a regular one, cut into two parts. That's when you already have all the elements on the sheet - count the total number:
- With a roof slope area of up to 50 square meters, you will need a pipe with a diameter of 80 millimeters.
- At 125 square meters, this is already 90 millimeters.
- With more than 125 square meters, you need to take a pipe of 100 millimeters.
You will choose funnels and adapters, having already decided on the diameter of the pipes. Therefore, at this stage, already draw up a sketch of the future water supply and mark out suitable places for locating drains and mounting gutters. Once you have the whole scheme ready, you can purchase the material.
How to make a gutter for a flat roof?
So let's figure out how to make and install a drain from sewer pipes for a flat roof. Yes it is possible! There is a big bonus here: the drain will be built into the wall, and it will not be outside. Therefore, sewer plastic is not afraid of either frost or destructive UV rays.
Your main task is to make sure that water flows easily from the roof to one place, in its center. That's where you just need to install a drainpipe, or even several. The only thing you have to take care of is to insulate such a pipe, or place it in special insulation so that condensate does not collect on it. And after installing the funnel, just cover it with a grate so that it does not clog.
How to make a mount for a homemade drain?
To secure a homemade drain, you will need brackets. You can purchase them ready-made or make them yourself. The only difference will be that many types of ready-made brackets are designed for the same ready-made downpipes.
See how their edges are folded over so that the bracket can easily snap onto them. But if you attach just a cut sewer pipe, it does not have such a rim on the side. And therefore, it is better to purchase one bracket for testing, and try on the pipe - will it hold? That is why, when making a homemade drain, many craftsmen make the brackets themselves - these are more suitable and often turn out to be even more reliable.
Ready-made brackets for drainage systems
Ready-made metal brackets must be bent using a special tool so as not to damage the polymer coating. After all, if there are small microcracks, water will easily get into them and corrosion will begin. And this already at times reduces the reliability of the entire drainage system!
And here are the finished plastic hooks on a homemade drainage system:
This mount is well suited for organizing the drainage of gazebos:
Homemade fasteners: we select and manufacture
And the strong fasteners that come with the sewer pipes are also quite suitable for the drainpipe. Moreover, they are designed to withstand the weight of water, and therefore more durable, and go well with the color of the pipes themselves:
If you're going to make the mount yourself, you'd better get a special hook bender, or at least a small vise. Once you've hammered in one hook, bring it up to the overhang and check the angle of the hook. The chute mounted on it should then be located strictly perpendicular to the ground. It is important to bend the bracket so that the front edge of the gutters is only 2mm below the rear. Only in this way the water, if it overflows the gutter, will come out through the outer screens, and will not flow along the walls of the house.
Bending hooks with a regular vise is exhausting. The fact is that the clicks of the vise do not completely clamp the holder. Therefore, experienced craftsmen prefer to make a tool for bending metal gutter holders on their own. Here is the simplest instruction:
- Step 1. We take an ordinary metal corner with a wall thickness of at least 6 mm, or a channel of the same parameters.
- Step 2. In the channel grinder, a slot of such a length that it is equal to the width of the gutter holder.
- Step 3. We take a square pipe in which the inner walls are slightly larger than the width of the gutter holder.
- Step 4. Now on all the holders we mark the places of the fold. After that, we put the holder into the square pipe, take a wooden block and forcefully insert it inside the pipe.
- Step 5. We set the required bend angle.
- Step 6. Now insert the holder into the slot and align it with the marked fold point.
- Step 7. Now we knock out the bar with another piece of wood from the opposite end of the pipe.
- Step 8. If there was already paint on the handle, it will also crack a little, but it can be corrected. But in the final result, the quality of the joke will be much higher than that of those curved with a vice.
By the way, here is a wonderful master class on how to make such hooks even faster and easier:
Another interesting option to bend the hook:
- Step 1. We make a grinder with a very small risk with a depth of 1 to 2 millimeters.
- Step 2. We nail one nail or one self-tapping screw through the hook into the rafter and bend the hook itself. It will bend exactly along the filed line, and will not break over time.
Once all the fasteners are ready, go around your house and see how you best fix it all.
Of course, it is desirable to install the gutter before you cover the roof. The following illustration will help you understand the installation of the mount:
Converting pipes into drains
Now let's prepare the sewer pipes themselves. You will need to cut them lengthwise. From one pipe you will get two excellent identical complaints. In practice, everything is quite simple! To make the cut smooth, follow these instructions:
- Step 1. Lay the pipe on the boards, and attach the wall at the bottom with a self-tapping screw at both ends.
- Step 2. Connect the screws with a thick thread and mark the place where you will cut the pipe with a permanent marker.
- Step 3. Remove the thread and cut the pipe with a grinder.
- Step 4 Now do the same on the other side. The only difference will be that now you will need two self-tapping screws.
Here is a great step by step tutorial:
Our advice: if you work with a grinder, be careful! The melted plastic is actually very hot, and can even burn your hands. Yes, and flying particles can hurt the eyes. Therefore, when cutting sewer pipes, be sure to wear gloves and goggles. As home craftsmen note, sewer pipes are also easily cut with a jigsaw or wood saw, and all the difficulty lies only in the correct marking of the longitudinal marks for cutting. But it is most convenient, of course, to make gutters from sewer pipes with a grinder with a thin circle for metal.
And connecting the finished elements is quite simple:
You will be interested to know that instead of ugly vertical pipes, you can use ... chains. This is quite a popular way! The principles of such a drain are quite simple: the chain must be firmly connected to the gutter and the base.
At the same time, it is pulled so that it cannot move to the side, and for this, it is most often buried in a concrete base or in the ground. A small canopy protects the facade from water splashes. Looks amazing!
The advantage of such "drains" is that they are less visible against the background of the house and do not interfere with its exterior. In addition, they are usually complemented by spectacular decorative elements. Moreover, today it is fashionable not just to lower the chains down, but to create complex spatial forms from them, and even alternate with decorative bowls made of ceramics or plastic.
The only inconvenience is that modern manufacturers of plastic gutters do not produce special elements for connecting the gutters to the chain. But, since you make your own drain, and you yourself are already acting as a manufacturer, then there is no limit to your imagination! And it's convenient: you will have to tinker with cutting and connecting only the horizontal elements of the drainage system, and lower the elements of beauty already down. Why not?
Stage # 2 - installation work
Now we will install our drain from the sewer pipes:
- Step 1. To begin with, the shortest and longest bracket must be fixed to the front board of the eaves.
- Step 2. After that, connect the gutters with a slope of 3 mm for every 50 cm so that rainwater arrives at the very center. Please note that the edge of the roof must necessarily fall in the middle of the gutter so that snow and ice do not damage the gutters in winter and the rainwater itself hits the target.
- Step 3. Once all horizontal gutters are ready, install pipes to drain water.
- Step 4. Fix such pipes to the wall, and leave a gap of 20 to 80 centimeters between them and complaints. Here there will be a tee and an elbow, which will provide the transition from the gutter to the pipe.
- Step 5. Now cut two pieces of pipe 5 centimeters each, which will serve as your connectors. Install each connector and secure with self-tapping screws. Lubricate the mounting points with silicone sealant to protect them from rainwater.
- Step 6 Fasten the vertical pipes to the wall using brackets with clamps. For each meter of such pipes, you will need only two fasteners, which is not at all a lot.
- Step 7. And at the very end of the pipe, below, install the elbow. This is necessary so that water does not get under the foundation. It should be located at least 30 cm from the wall.
- Step 8. And finally, close the end of the gutter with plugs, which you simply cut in half.
This is how the installation of a drain on plastic hooks looks like:
When installing the drain, do not clamp all the details too tightly: a little mobility is needed so that the whole structure changes slightly under the influence of temperatures.
Fasten all gutters to the brackets with self-tapping screws. And so that later the pipes do not twist under the influence of sunlight, fix them with antennae on the brackets, or install spacers.
At the stage of final work, you will need to think about how to connect your homemade gutter system to the storm sewer. To do this, an audit should be made on the downpipe - this is a segment with a hatch and gratings that will collect all the garbage from the gutters. After all, it is important that only rainwater then goes into the sewer, without all this goodness, and does not clog the subsequent more complex system.
There are also alternative options: connect additional drainage pipes, and those will already communicate with the sewer or with the storm water inlet. The advantage of the latter is that it has a valve that does not let in odors and collects large debris in a special removable basket.
Some subtleties and nuances that are important to know
When installing a homemade drainage system from sewer pipes, keep in mind that all PVC products change their physical parameters with temperature changes. Therefore, it is very important that the gutters can move freely in the brackets. And for this, try to leave at least 9 centimeters from the junction of the gutters to the bracket. Also, the ends of the gutters must be tightly joined.
To prevent your downpipes, made so carefully with your own hands, from getting dirty and clogged with foliage, install a regular plastic mesh on top. It will pass water, but leaves and branches will not:
The owner of a finished industrial drainage system usually does not think about it, believing that manufacturers always take everything into account themselves. But when you do something with your own hands, you always want to do it with high quality, and you won’t forget about such details.
Why it turns out in practice that often home-made drainage systems turn out to be both stronger and more durable. Moreover, some craftsmen also manage to be creative, for example, to get water into their garage with the help of a drain - catch a great idea:
If you live in a region with snowy winters, install an additional heating cable in the gutters. Do not worry about the material of the sewer pipes: they are just designed for temperatures above average, so the cable will not harm them in any way.
There is another important rule: do not install gutters at temperatures below zero. After all, when the air temperature rises higher with the onset of spring, the pipes will simply twist. In any case, even just in cool weather, it is important to calculate all expansion joints and gaps so that the system does not “play” later.
Usually this does not happen because industrial versions of drainage systems have special serifs inside the parts that help to correctly connect the elements at a specific air temperature. But in the case of sewer pipes, you have to do everything on a whim.
Issues of aesthetics and stylistic unity
There is such an interesting architectural element - gargoyles. These are the heads or bodies of fantastic animals with open mouths, which usually end in a gutter. In other words, these are "terribly cute animals" on your roof.
Of course, in a finished industrial gutter system, such decorative aspects are rarely implemented, there is more emphasis on practicality. But, if you make a drain yourself, why not design it more spectacular, agree?
With this publication, we open a series of articles "piping in the bathroom", which will address the issue of installing rough plumbing in the bathroom, bathroom. The first stage is the design and installation of sewerage.
Why sewer? Yes, because all subsequent wiring depends on it. If water supply pipes are usually not difficult to stretch to any point in the bathroom, then it is a little more difficult with sewer pipes. The presence or absence of ducts depends on the drain pipes, because of the need to observe the slope towards the riser, all the little things must be taken into account, including the height and location of the bath. In other words, the entire wiring of rough plumbing directly depends on the sewer pipes.
Planning (dimensions of plumbing fixtures)
In general, this stage is partially intertwined with the planning and design of the bathroom as a whole, but let's try to state everything in order.
Even at the stage of creating a project (even if it's just a picture in your head), you need to analyze the possibility of installing a bathtub or toilet bowl, a shower cabin and other things. After all, the installation of a toilet bowl necessarily requires laying a pipe of 110 mm, and therefore the erection of boxes or other measures to hide this pipe. Like it or not, the D110 pipe cannot be hidden in a gate in any way and you will have to reckon with such an important point.
Often, in new buildings, an unacceptably high outlet of the vertical riser is made, and if the required slopes of the sewer pipes are observed, then simply the outlet to the bath (for example) will be located above the bottom and this will be a gross mistake. Therefore, you will have to think about reworking the common, vertical riser.
In general, planning includes an understanding of the process of the entire sewerage installation even at the design project stage. To begin understanding, let's define the standard dimensions required for certain plumbing fixtures.
Toilet. In general, the height of the outlet under the toilet is not so important - there is a wide variety of fan pipes, with which you can use it without problems. If there is an idea to hide all the pipes in a box along with a fan pipe, then you need to start from a specific model of the toilet bowl.
The pictures below show the average dimensions of many toilets. The information is given for a general idea and when designing, it is still recommended to take into account the dimensions of a particular model.
For models with a direct drain, the height of the outlet axis from the floor is on average 175-180 mm.
When planning, you should take into account the so-called "comfort zone of the toilet" - the distances to the left and right for convenient use, so that when sitting, the legs do not rest against walls or other objects. It has been experimentally established that a gap of 25 centimeters on the sides satisfies the requirements of "users" even of large build.
Bath. When organizing a drain hole for a sewer pipe for installing a bath siphon, it is important to consider the maximum height of this drain. The height of the drain must not exceed the height of the bottom of the bathtub at the point of attachment of the siphon, otherwise the water drainage will be very poor or the remaining water will stand on the bottom.
For most baths, the height from floor to bottom can be 13-15 cm. It is easy to calculate that for a bath with a "clearance" of 15 cm, a sewer pipe is 50 mm. should be located no higher than 12.5 from the floor (height along the axis of the pipe, the upper edge is at a height of 15 cm), in fact it is better to make the drain a little lower, if possible.
Considering that it is necessary to observe the slopes of the pipes, the maximum height of the axis of the drain hole of 12 cm is quite low. It happens that due to the vertical riser tee being installed too high, there is no way to observe all the slopes and withdraw drain on the bath is not higher than its bottom. In this case, options are considered with the alteration of the vertical riser and the lowering of the tee or a decrease in the slope of the horizontal pipes. There were cases when a "podium" of 10 cm was erected for the bath to ensure normal flow - this option is rather an exception.
slopes. To calculate the slopes of horizontal sewer pipes, it is customary to follow the instructions of SNiP 2.04.01-85. However, due to the insufficient volume of discharged water, the calculation does not make sense. Therefore, this document should be guided by the following standards:
In cases where it is not possible to fulfill condition (33) due to the insufficient amount of domestic wastewater flow, undesigned sections of pipelines with a diameter of 40-50 mm should be laid with a slope of 0.03, and with a diameter of 85 and 100 mm - with a slope of 0.02.
I would like to add from my experience: for the drainage of several plumbing fixtures (washbasin, bathtub and kitchen sink), it is quite enough to observe a slope of 1-1.5 cm per 1 m of the D50 pipe. Of course, it will be correct to observe 3 cm by 1 m, but sometimes this is problematic (as is the case with a bathtub and a high tee).
Wash basin. It is generally accepted that, by default, sewerage is taken out of the wall 50 cm from the floor to the washbasin. However, this size is more applicable to washbasins with a cabinet ("moidodyr"), for a sink on a leg it is not necessary to raise the outlet from a horizontal pipe. It is worth noting that not all cabinets have a size of 50 cm from the floor along the axis of the pipe. Some washbasins are designed for different outlet heights.
It is worth noting that for a high-quality installation of the “moidodyr”, it is necessary to observe the height of the sewer outlet so that the top drawers of the cabinet do not touch the sink piping. Therefore, it is desirable to know the mounting height in advance. If there is no water data, do it at a height of 50 cm from the floor.
It would be dishonest to keep silent about the fact that for the installation of a cabinet-washbasin, it is possible to provide an outlet near the floor, when the pipes are closed with a horizontal box, and the cabinet is partially sawn.
For the sink in the bathroom, you can use pipes from D32, but still it is better to look at a diameter of 50 mm., And save smaller sizes for difficult to solve, non-standard situations.
Drain for washing machine. For a washing machine, the height of the sewer outlet is not at all critical, well ... if you do not bring it up to the ceiling (just kidding). In a grooved wall, in a box, near the floor or at the level of the upper edge of the machine - the main thing is that it is technically convenient and looks aesthetically pleasing. D40 and D50 pipes are suitable for draining. It is quite possible to use D32, but then, theoretically, during the drain, a slight pressure may form in this pipe and this can lead to leakage in the collar joints of the pipes.
Accessories for installation of sewer pipes
Consider the various corners and joints for plastic sewer pipes, with which the installation is carried out.
Tee 90 degrees, diameters: 32, 40, 50, 110 mm. One of the main and most common spare parts. It is used for the organization of drainage to the toilet and in other solutions. Often one hears from "very experienced" plumbers that the outlet to the toilet should not include a horizontal lounger (pipe) at an angle of 90, otherwise there will be constant blockages. I can state with all responsibility: this is not so - in my practice there are a great many connections of the toilet bowl with such a tee and during operation there are no hints of blockages.
In general, plumbers have a rule: if possible, do not make 90 angles on the "canal", it is better to put two corners of 45 each. This is true and it is worth adhering to this rule, however, in the case of a toilet bowl, in 9 out of 10 cases it is technically more convenient to make a connection with a 90-degree tee. And there is nothing wrong with that!
Coupling transitional eccentric 110-50 mm., popularly referred to as the "bottle". Designed for transition from the 110th pipe to the 50th. In the sewerage of the bathroom, it is used, as a rule, after organizing the outlet to the toilet - then the 110th diameter without the need and installation continues with the fiftieth.
In the photo above we see the assembly assembly: cross 110-110-110-50 and "bottle". Thus, the output to the toilet is organized, the continuation of the D50 lounger to the left and the output of the D50 upwards. The top output in the above example is used for draining the washing machine.
When purchasing a cross, you need to be careful: they differ in left and right.
In addition to the cross and bottle, there are many variations of transitions from 110 mm. by 50 mm. Most of these connectors vary in left and right. Some examples below:
Unlike tees 110 mm., for a diameter of 50 mm. and less is better to use smooth 45 degree corners - technically there is no barrier to using two 45 degree angles instead of one 90.
Regardless of the diameter of the pipe (32, 40, 50 or 110 mm.), 45 and 90 degree angles are not the only ones. There are angles of 30, 67, 87 degrees. Thanks to them, various installation tasks are solved when, according to the idea, it is necessary to turn the pipes at an angle other than a straight one.
It is worth noting that recently a great many variations of angles and transitions have appeared, it is almost impossible to show all the existing ones.
Increasingly common sewer pipes and fittings white colors. They fit perfectly with the gray ones and differ only in the color of the wall thickness. The walls of these pipes are thicker, so the movement of wastewater is more silent.
Now we will discuss the fastening of pipes. Standardly, there are two types of brackets for fixing sewer pipes - adjustable and non-adjustable.
Non-adjustable plastic clips are mainly used for wall mounting, because there is no possibility to create a slope when mounting on the floor. Although the "savvy" master will find a way to fix the clips on the floor, at different heights - if there is no way out, you can attach the clips to bars of different thicknesses.
Clamp sizes are standard, for pipes D32, D40, D50 and D110.
A pipe clamp on a stud gives more room for action: diameter adjustable to a small extent, adjustable height of mounting on the floor or mounting on walls. These fasteners are very versatile and are suitable for any pipes, not just sewer ones. Dimensions suitable for plastic sewerage:
"1" (adjustable diameter 32-36 mm. for D32 mount)
"1¼"(38-43 mm for D32 socket and D40)
"1½"(47-51 mm. for socket D40 and for D50)
"2" (57-61 mm. for socket D50)
"4" (110-116 mm for D110)
The studs of these clamps are found in different lengths, with M6-M10 thread. Sometimes it is convenient to purchase a long hairpin separately and make the desired length yourself.
Fasteners should be placed near the sockets (or on the sockets directly). Usually one fastening per one horizontal elbow is enough. When mounted on a socket (as in the first photo of the publication), the assembled pipes will be difficult to disassemble without loosening the clamps, this must be taken into account.
Mounting Features
Actually, most of the information has already been told, it remains only to assemble the purchased components in accordance with the design idea.
The pipes are assembled from the riser (inlet pipe) towards the consumer. In other words, pipes are installed first, which are closer to the point of discharge into the common house riser.
In each connection, the pipe should enter the socket of the previous one by about 50 mm. If the cuff in the socket is too tight and it is impossible to insert the outlet, then you need to lubricate the cuffs with liquid soap or detergent - things will go much easier.
Plastic pipes are cut by any improvised means: a grinder, a hacksaw for metal. You can even cut with a regular wood saw. The main thing is to clean the cut edge from all kinds of burrs - burrs inside the pipe will provoke a blockage, and burrs outside will not allow you to assemble the parts normally.
Some craftsmen practice applying silicone to the cuffs of the assembled parts - supposedly the joint is even more airtight. I would like to note that the cuff connections that any sewer plastic pipe is equipped with do an excellent job without silicone. Therefore, it is still recommended to refrain from amateur performance.
In some situations, it is necessary to fix two parts together so that during operation one does not come out of the other. It is categorically impossible to do this with the help of self-tapping screws, which some masters twist into the end of the socket. The sharp tip of the self-tapping screw sticking out inside the pipe will collect hair and cause blockage. If, for some reason, the assembled unit experiences mechanical stress "for undocking" - you need to fix both parts using brackets or other fixing methods.
To form and control the required pipe slopes, it is very convenient to use a laser level. By constructing a horizontal beam a little higher than the horizontal bed, you can control the slope by substituting a tape measure on the controlled areas and comparing the distances from the pipe to the beam.
On this, in principle, and all. We have considered the main points of the installation of sewerage in the bathroom, perhaps I will add something over time.
Plastic pipes for draining sewers, which are used at the household level, in most cases, have a diameter of 32 mm, 50 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm, despite the fact that the two most popular types are 50 mm, 100 mm. In addition, fragments of various lengths are produced for mounting the wiring of the system, and they can be 25 cm, 35 cm, 50 cm, 75 cm, 100 cm, 150 cm and 200 cm (fragmentation of a 150 mm pipe starts from 50 cm, smaller in do not create in most cases).
We will talk in more detail about such elements below, and see a demonstration of the thematic video in this article.
Sewer pipeline equipment
Note. The entire system, mounted for sewage, for the most part consists of pipes of various diameters. But all of them must somehow fit together, based on this, the industry for this purpose creates homogeneous fittings (PVC), and rubber cuffs (reductions) and sealing rings.
Pipes
The most basic parameter, whether it is a drain pipe from the roof, or it will be a sewer riser, or a horizontal wiring of a smaller diameter, it is possible to name the outer diameter - the throughput property does not depend on it, but it is what they pay attention to during installation. Below we bring to your attention a table of all standard sizes of PVC sewerage.
Outer diameter (mm) | Nominal ring stiffness (SN, kN / m 2) | ||||||
Dn | Permiss. deviations | 2 | 4 | 8 | |||
SDR 51 | SDR 41 | SDR 38 | |||||
Pipe wall thickness (mm) | |||||||
en | Add. off | en | Add. off | en | Add. off | ||
50 | ±0.2 | - | - | 1,3 | ±0.4 | 1,6 | ±0.4 |
63 | ±0.2 | - | - | 1,6 | ±0.4 | 2,0 | ±0.5 |
75 | ±0.3 | - | - | 1,9 | ±0.4 | 2,3 | ±0.5 |
90 | ±0.3 | - | - | 2,2 | ±0.5 | 2,8 | ±0.5 |
110 | ±0.3 | - | - | 2,7 | ±0.5 | 3,4 | ±0.5 |
125 | ±0.3 | - | - | 3,2 | ±0.6 | 3,9 | ±0.6 |
160 | ±0.4 | 3,2 | ±0.6 | 4,0 | ±0.6 | 4,9 | ±0.7 |
200 | ±0.5 | 3,9 | ±0.6 | 4,9 | ±0.7 | 6,2 | ±0.9 |
250 | ±0.5 | 4,9 | ±0.7 | 6,2 | ±0.9 | 7,7 | ±1.0 |
315 | ±0.6 | 6,2 | ±0.9 | 7,7 | ±1.0 | 9,7 | ±1.2 |
400 | ±0.7 | 7,7 | ±1.0 | 9,8 | ±1.2 | 12,3 | ±1.5 |
500 | ±0.9 | 9,8 | ±1.2 | 12,3 | ±1.5 | 15,3 | ±1.8 |
630 | ±1.1 | 12,3 | ±1.5 | 15,4 | ±1.8 | 19,3 | ±2.2 |
800 | ±1.3 | 15,4 | ±1.8 | 19,6 | ±2.2 | 24,5 | ±2.7 |
1000 | ±1.6 | 19,6 | ±2.2 | 24,5 | ±2.7 | 30,6 | ±3.3 |
1200 | ±2.0 | 24,5 | ±2.7 | 29,4 | ±5.2 | 36,7 | ±3.5 |
Note. This table shows all the parameters of pipes, starting from a section of 50 mm and above, despite the fact that parameters of 50 mm, 110 mm and 150 mm are used in the residential sector. The actual diameter of 110 mm when buying in a store is in most cases considered as 100 mm - both the pipe and the price along with this do not change.
Fittings and reductions
- To make any joint on the pipeline, such as a tie-in, turn, decoupling of a node or a transition to a different diameter and to a different plane, specialized adapters of various configurations are used. For example, a drain pipe for a toilet bowl may be made as a plastic corner or a corrugated sleeve, but all this needs to be somehow connected to the riser, and this is exactly where a tee is needed (four - for tapping to other bathrooms), which is cut into the riser.
- In approximately the same way, a drain pipe for a bathroom or sink is connected - the corrugated sleeve of the siphon is joined to the socket of the corner sewer fitting or tee, where a rubber ring or cuff is used for sealing. In addition, there are complex interchanges, especially in the basements of private houses, at a time when there are actually no pipes in the apartment - for each bathroom, the outlet is made through the floor, based on this below, under the basement ceiling, it is necessary to join a large number of pipes, and at a different slope and with different diameters.
- A rubber cuff is sometimes not uncommon, simply irreplaceable, for example, connecting the drain of a washing machine to a sewer pipe is carried out using a 32 mm pipe, which must be connected to a 50 mm socket. But such fittings made of PVC are very rare, therefore, a rubber reduction of 50 × 32 mm is driven into the glass of the socket, and without that the trouble is solved. Exactly the same situation appears when the drain pipe for the sink is connected - a 50 × 40 mm reduction is used there for the corrugated siphon sleeve.
- O-Rings are factory supplied with plastic tubing, so you don't need to buy them separately. When docking, you must be careful so that there is no skew, and if at the end of the test drain you see a leak at any of the joints, then do not rush to seal it with silicone or sealant. In these circumstances, the instruction recommends dismantling such a connection, fixing the ring and reassembling it - the flow will fall through the ground.
Needed advice. When assembling the sewer with your own hands, from time to time there are important difficulties - the circumstance is that the rubber sealing ring is too hard. To eliminate this problem, it is possible to smear the ring or the end of the pipe (or both) with liquid household detergent. This will greatly facilitate the connection workflow.
Necessary Gadgets
In the event of a blockage under the sink, few people will have the question of how to clean the drain pipe in the kitchen, everything is simple here - remove the siphon sleeve from the fitting and insert the plumbing cable through the socket towards the riser. But what to do if such an assembly is not made in a straight line, but with turns (from time to time by 90?) Or if the length of the cable is not enough?
In such cases, on bends and in long sections (more than 4-5 meters), a plastic revision crashes, which is possible both indoors and outside, underground, only in the latter case, an inspection well made of cement rings or brickwork is built above it.
The revision is very similar in appearance and method of mounting on a tee, only in our case the side outlet is threaded here so that it can be well closed with a lid, which is clearly visible in the top photo. To eliminate blockage, the cover is unscrewed and a plumbing cable is inserted into the pipe in the right direction.
To avoid overflows, a sewer check valve is used, which in most cases is installed in the private sector or on the first floors of multi-storey buildings. The essence of the work for the gadget is as follows - at a time when the water level in the sewer rises higher than the level of pipes in the apartment (house), then all this liquid will begin to pour out through the toilet, bath, and from time to time the sink and sink (the law of communicating vessels). But if a non-return valve is installed before the living quarters, then this will not happen.
Such devices can be vertical and horizontal, with a constipation in the form of a membrane with a rubber gasket (made of plastic), or horizontal spherical, with flanged connections (made of cast iron or steel). The latter option is in most cases used for industrial capacities.
Conclusion
Plastic waste pipes for roofs, rooms or underground laying are no different from each other and are made from the same material - PVC. The main difference between them is contained in the sizes and laying methods.
Drenched neighbors, bad smells in the apartment, standing water in the bath - all this may be the result of improper selection of sewer pipes and installation with violations. You need to figure out how to avoid this.
Types of sewer pipes
For internal sewerage, gray PP pipes are used.
There are three main materials from which sewer drain pipes are made: cast iron, ceramics, and plastic. The first two materials are used for the manufacture of risers, sometimes they can be found in the wiring of old apartments and houses, and external networks of ceramics have also been preserved. Plastic is a more modern material. It has its drawbacks: worse heat resistance, sound insulation properties. However, polymers are distinguished by durability, reliability, low cost and ease of high-quality installation.
In practice, two main types of plastic are used: polypropylene and polyethylene. Polypropylene is highly heat resistant and can be used in homes with hot water drains. Polyethylene is suitable for outdoor sewerage systems laid underground.
Dimensions and design
Socket connection
Pipes are distinguished by outer diameter, length and wall thickness. The diameter is used to select fittings. Wall thickness is a less important parameter. In accordance with the sewerage project, a specification is drawn up: how many and what kind of pipes are required for the facility, how many connectors and gaskets for them, clamps, and other assemblies are needed.
Based on the needs of one family, when laying a conventional drain network, diameters of 40 and 50 mm are used, and for draining toilets and laying risers - 110 mm. 40 mm is only suitable for a separate connection of a washing machine or dishwasher, 50 mm for all other cases. Such diameters allow you to easily clean the drain with a plumbing cable.
Pipes can be straight or bell-shaped. Straight lines are spliced along the length using fittings. No fittings are needed for flare fittings - you can get a system of any length without using any connectors.
Smooth sleeves are usually used when laying horizontal wiring, bell-shaped - for laying risers. Corrugation is also used. It is convenient to use for connecting sinks, household appliances.
Connecting elements
Types of fittings
When laying a socketless pipeline, various fitting connections are required:
- drives;
- tees and crosses;
- squares;
- bends;
- revisions;
- adapters.
Squares are found in 15-degree increments, usually using 45-degree angles. Turns of 90 degrees are undesirable, as the likelihood of blockages increases. They also try to put the bends not straight, but at 45 degrees, given the possibility of cleaning through the opening of the plumbing fixture, the flow from the bend should enter along the flow in the main pipe. Revisions are built into other fittings. The adapters are asymmetric - the smaller hole should be higher when mounted longitudinally.
All connecting elements have seals-gaskets that ensure tightness. They must exactly match the diameter of the pipe and the type of fitting.
Installation of internal sewerage pipes
Sewer wiring example
Before proceeding with the installation, you should have a project in hand. It is done in accordance with the location of plumbing fixtures, the design of the room, the location of the main risers in the house. You can order a project from professionals with a license and work experience, but for a private house you can do it yourself - draw up a drawing and specification for it.
There are two basic rules for installation: ensure a slope of at least 1% and install without reducing the diameter. In practice, they make 2%, with a margin, but no more. Installation without narrowing the diameter implies that it is possible to exit from a 50 mm network to another network of 50 or 110 mm, but not to 40 mm.
Pipes are laid according to the drawing, marking the walls and floor. Everything must be fixed on clamps, adjustable supports and racks. Fasten every meter, but at least two points per segment. Access to revisions should be provided, cleaning with a cable should be thought out. Only one pressure pump is allowed on one line, that is, the washing machine and dishwasher must have different entrances to the riser.
Under the sinks, you need to put siphons or install water seals from corrugated pipes so that odors do not penetrate into the room.
Use a special roller cutter. The place of the cut is cleaned with a file, they also perform a lead-in chamfer. Having lubricated the connection gaskets with petroleum jelly, insert the pipe into them and fix them in pre-installed clamps according to the markings. Some types of toilet fittings require the additional use of silicone sealant. At the last stage, turn on the water and check all joints for leaks.
The service life of any roof depends on a variety of factors - the quality of the materials used, the approach to calculations, installation technology and external influences. One of these factors is the drainage of water from the roof, with improper arrangement of which the structure is regularly exposed to moisture.
A well-designed and properly assembled roof drainage system is an important element of roof construction and requires a lot of attention. This article will discuss how to properly equip the drain of water from the roof.
Device and types of drainage systems
Structurally, any drainage system consists of a pipe, gutters and catchment funnels. Getting into these elements, the water from the roof surface is sent to the storm drain, where its impact will not harm the building in any way.
There are three basic schemes of the drainage system:
- Unorganized drainage of rainwater from the roof. Such a design, which is also called spontaneous, in accordance with its name, provides an independent drain of water from the roof. A distinctive feature of a spontaneous drain is simplicity - nothing needs to be installed to ensure a drain. The problem is that the flowing water washes away the building, damages the wall finishes and negatively affects the waterproofing layer.
- Organized external water flow from the roof. This is a classic design, consisting of a drain pipe, a gutter and several funnels that are connected to a storm sewer. As a result of the installation of an organized external drain, water is collected from all slopes and drained from the roof surface. External drain is quite simple in arrangement and maintenance.
- Organized internal rain runoff from the roof. The main difference between an internal drain and an external drain is the installation of structural elements in the building itself in such a way that they are not visible. As a rule, such a drain is equipped in the case of flat roofs. Installation of an internal drain is complicated, and it will be very difficult to maintain it, especially if mistakes were made during the arrangement.
Materials for the manufacture of systems for draining water from the roof
For the arrangement of the drainage system, various materials are used, the choice of which directly affects the cost of the structure and its durability. In order for components to perform their duties well, they need sufficient moisture resistance, resistance to temperature extremes and a long service life.
In most cases, draining water from the roof is equipped with the following materials:
- Cink Steel. Steel is used to drain water most often. To a large extent, the high popularity is due to the fact that you can select not only ready-made structural elements, but also make them yourself using sheet metal. Galvanized steel meets all requirements: it perfectly resists corrosion, calmly withstands the effects of external factors and can easily last more than 15 years. The only drawback of steel products is their heavy weight, which complicates installation and creates heavy loads on the roof frame.
- Plastic. Polymer elements are very well suited for arranging a drainage system. With most of the advantages of steel parts, plastic is less expensive, much lighter and has a wide range of colors, which allows you to choose the right color to match the roof. Installing a plastic drain for the roof is very simple - installation will not cause problems, and all the necessary elements are included. Quite often, a do-it-yourself plastic roof drain is installed, since the installation process does not cause difficulties. The biggest drawback of polymer products is their poor resistance to significant temperature changes. You can even make a do-it-yourself drain from plastic bottles, which will save money.
- Copper. Copper components for the drain are distinguished primarily by their high cost, so they are used infrequently. However, the high cost is fully justified - copper is completely resistant to moisture and can work without the slightest complaint for more than a hundred years. The main disadvantage of copper parts is the heavy weight inherent in all metal products, so the truss frame and crate will have to be strengthened.
When choosing materials for arranging a drainage system, you need to build on the roofing. Seam roofing, as well as roofs made of metal tiles and profiled sheets, are best equipped with a steel drain with a plastic coating. In the case of soft roll coatings, plastic pipes for draining water from the roof will be relevant, and for copper coating, copper components for the drain are suitable.
Before choosing drain pipes for the roof, you need to calculate their dimensions, starting from climatic conditions and roof parameters. As practice shows, for small buildings a pipe with a diameter of 50-70 mm and a gutter with a diameter of 70-120 mm are quite suitable.
Pipe and drain installation
In order for the drainage of water from the roof to be feasible, two factors must be observed:
- The presence of a slope to the catchment funnels;
- Tightness.
If these factors are present, then with the correct installation of all components of the catchment system will work correctly.
During installation, the following rules must be observed and followed:
- If the drain is heavy, then it is necessary to strengthen the frame at the attachment points of the drain elements. Plastic drains can be attached to the eaves, but metal products are attached to the rafters.
- In the gap between the gutter and the rafters, a layer of waterproofing must be laid. The material is selected individually: both polyethylene film and various bituminous mastics can act as waterproofing.
- Drainage elements are installed around the entire perimeter of the roof. The drain gutter is attached with a slight slope towards the catchment funnels.
- The gutter itself is fastened using special brackets. The gutter should be under the roof overhang with one half, and the other half should go outside. Such an installation will ensure efficient collection of liquid and prevent the destruction of the structure due to collapsed snow masses.
- Vertical risers of a drain fasten on corners of the building. A storm drain is supplied to these points (if it is not available, then containers are installed under the drains or a sand and gravel cushion is equipped). There must be a distance of no more than 50 cm between the edge of the downpipe and the ground.
- Mounting brackets are installed in increments of about 50-60 cm. With a large weight of the structure, the step between the mounts should be reduced even more.
In order for the drainage system to function properly, it must be monitored and regularly serviced. If the installation of drains on the roof has been done correctly, then it will have to be cleaned only once a season. During the maintenance process, you need to make sure that there are no leaks, and if they are found, take corrective measures.
Conclusion
Drainage of water from the roof is carried out through a gutter system. Competent selection of materials and high-quality installation will allow you to create a reliable system that can effectively perform all its tasks.