The young spirit of the hot springs, Hakone-chan. Hot springs in Japan
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Thermal springs represent the exit point underground water to the surface, and the temperature of such water starts from 20 degrees and reaches almost boiling point. In such springs you can boil eggs and cook lunch. In Japan, thermal or hot springs are common. Our next trip was to one of these places.
Kusatsu, a small Japanese resort town. The population is 6537 people. This is the most famous resort in Japan, as there are more than 100 onsen on its territory. Arriving in Kusatsu it is immediately clear that you are in resort area. A huge number of people in yukata walk around the city and go from one onsen to another.
The city of Kusatsu is located in the mountains - an altitude of 1200 meters above sea level. And the territory of the city itself is hilly, sometimes you go up the mountain, sometimes you rush down.
Summer temperatures reach 30 degrees, in winter the weather is sub-zero with big amount snow, average temperature in winter - minus 8°. But the snow does not linger in the city, since hot springs gush out everywhere.
In autumn the weather is optimal for a holiday at the resort. It was raining when we arrived in Kusatsu. Well, how could we be without him, the rain followed us. But now we knew the reason for this bad weather - another typhoon was approaching Japan and everyone was waiting for it to hit with rain and heavy winds.
A little historical background:
The history of Kusatsu began in 1200, when the Kōsenji Temple was founded in the hot spring area.
Already in the 15th and 16th centuries Kusatsu became famous resort with healing thermal springs, which was popular among wounded samurai. Surprisingly, Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s correspondence with Tokugawa Ieyasu has survived, in which the former recommends Ieyasu to visit the hot springs. Tokugawa did not go to the springs, but he ordered healing water to be brought from there.
In subsequent centuries, the village became increasingly popular due to the properties of the water.
In 1869, Kusatsu burned to the ground; its restoration took 20 years. It was at this time that the owners of resort onsens and ryokans had to change their business tactics. Previously in winter time the owners left the resort and returned to their homes for the winter, which were located outside of Kusatsu. Now, due to debts, they were forced to sell their houses and stay permanently in Kusatsu. So, on April 1, 1889, the village of Kusatsu was formed, and on July 1, 1900, it was given the status of a city.
From ancient times to today main income of the city and local population is tourism. 90% of Kusatsu residents are employed in this industry. How could it be otherwise if there is a huge number of onsens in the city, which is expressed by the number 100 with a total volume of 34,000 liters of healing water per minute.
This is not a blurry photograph. This is steam rising from a hot spring
And all this thermal water shoots out from under the ground. This is mainly sulfurous and acidic water. Arriving in Kusatsu, despite the external beauty, the thought arises that you are in hell - clouds of smoke and the smell of sulfur everywhere. Any minute someone will run up with a pitchfork and drag you into the inferno. This is, of course, a joke, but constantly living in conditions where there is a persistent smell of hydrogen sulfide around is a feat.
Kusatsu waters are attributed healing properties in the treatment of diseases such as arthralgia, paralysis, sprains, chronic stomach disorders, atherosclerosis, gynecological diseases, burns, skin diseases and joint diseases.
Hot springs are used not only for bathing, but also for economic needs cities, in particular heating schools and institutions.
The main and main attraction of the city of Yubatake. This is one of the largest thermal springs, which is located in the city center. Yubatake means "field" hot water" Hot water from the spring flows into wooden parallel tube boxes (as seen in the photos above and below) and pours out on the other side of this huge natural pool. Yubatake is fenced with a figured fence in the walls of which 100 name plates are built famous people who visited Kusatsu in different time. Among them are many foreign guests: German surgeons and doctors, architects, British researchers, Japanese athletes and the Prime Minister of Japan.
View of Yubatake from the mountain in the evening
The lower part of Yubatake is a cascade of hot water falling into a pool of emerald water. This is the most popular place among tourists for photography. But when we were emerald the color was gray, covered with a layer of steam and puffs of smoke. Besides, it was already evening, so it looked like this:
Water runs through wooden containers and falls below in a cascade of hot water.
The water temperature in the Kusatsu springs reaches 54 degrees and above; swimming in such water is, of course, impossible. For this reason, there is an ancient tradition of Yumomi, which means kneading water. Using wooden boards (oars) 1 meter 80 centimeters long, hot water is mixed, crushed as if kneading, thereby cooling. Mixing hot water with cold is not allowed because this will reduce the healing properties.
We rushed to see the ceremony of “kneading” or “beating” the water and almost gave up on seeing such a landmark as. We made it to the last session of the day. In front of the performance hall there was a long line of people wanting to watch; there were also foreigners there, but the bulk of the vacationers were Japanese.
Entering a small room where the Yumomi venue was fenced off from the audience, we tried to get as close to the stage as possible. The whole ceremony took place on Japanese and one could only guess that the presenter was telling the history of the formation of the resort and why this colorful old tradition Yumomi. And then I heard in my ear: “How Japanese is it to make an elephant out of a molehill?” I thought, “Yes, this guy doesn’t like the Japanese, or maybe he just knows them very well.”
Perhaps this is true, the Japanese really “overact” somewhere - but that’s how they live. And in the Yumomi ceremony, it would seem that you just need to cool the water, while hitting the water with oars - and that’s it, that’s the whole process. But this is how the Japanese did it - they sang, danced, and invited those who wanted to take part in the ceremony, then they also gave a certificate. We watched with pleasure as women and girls sang songs while stirring the water with boards.
The performance lasted about twenty minutes, after which we quickly ran around the main square of Kusatsu with the Yubatake spring and went to check into the hotel.
Having entered the hall and gone through all the check-in formalities, we chose a yukata based on height and color. It has already become commonplace that in the lobby there are shelves with things on offer and that it is customary to go to ryokans, including the restaurant (dining room) at the hotel, not in your own clothes, but in a yukata.
Having left our things in the room, we literally rushed back, but the city had already plunged into darkness and our movement through the evening Kusatsu was very difficult to capture on cameras. Darkness and rain best companions artistic, okay, just amateur photography.
Climbing the stairs, we walked around the territory of the now closed temple. On the way we met another one.
And then we went to look for the most famous onsen in Kusatsu, which is located in Sainokawara Park.
The entire inspection took place in the dark, so one could guess how beautiful it was here during the day, but the evening illumination added its own charm and mystery to this amazing place.
Imagine - you are walking along the path, and around here and there among the rocks and stones there are small lakes. Darkness, illumination, rain, stones, rising steam and water - it is difficult to understand where the path ends and the source begins. However, in safe places we tried to get off the hiking trail and walk next to the springs. It would be great to take off your shoes and dip your feet into the spring...
Water in rotemburo (hot springs under open air) different temperatures, from warm to hot depending on the proximity to the waterfall with very hot water. It is almost impossible to approach the waterfall, there are stones all around, you can only guess its temperature from the steam emanating from it.
We looked at the indoor onsens from the side. In Kusatsu, you can visit onsens not only in your hotel, but in neighboring ones too, there are also public baths, some of them are free, others cost a little money, around 100 yen.
Returning to the hotel, I took a few more pictures, but I had to hurry to dinner, for which we were already late.
The white cat, apparently the owner of the neko store, behaved very confidently and importantly
Tanuki guarding the establishment's wealth
Car artistically parked under a maple tree
We rushed to the hotel and headed for dinner. Entering the large dining room, we found our table, which was labeled by room number. The dinner was buffet style and you could take as much as you wanted. There is a choice of several types of meat in gravy, a traditional Japanese omelette, fried fish, a lot fresh vegetables and fruits, pickled vegetables and of course rice. There is always rice, at any time of the day, in unlimited quantities.
While we were choosing our food, we met a woman from the staff, she told us that she came to work in Japan from Brazil.
We slowly ate and talked, the hall gradually emptied and we were left alone. It was 19.50 on the clock. In our prospectus it was written that dinner was from 19.00 to 19.50. I didn't pay any attention to this formality. But here we were shown that there are rules in Japan and they must be followed. We continued to drink tea and eat dessert when a Japanese woman, apparently of a higher rank, approached us, because our Brazilian walked awkwardly next to us and smiled guiltily.
The Japanese woman sternly said that our time was up and we had to leave the restaurant; the fact that we hadn’t finished eating didn’t bother her at all. She persistently pointed at her watch and repeated that it was time to leave. Sumimasen and other words of politeness and apology, of course, sounded, but somehow very unkindly.
Basically, dinner was finished and we left. Of course everything is clear, the hotel was very big with a huge amount vacationers and everything should work like clockwork. For the first time I saw that the Japanese not only smile, but are also very demanding. The next morning we arrived a little earlier and it finally became clear why we were “asked” the day before.
Again, in the brochure that is issued to hotel guests, the times for dinner, breakfast, check-in, check-out, etc. are listed. Our breakfast was at 8.00. We arrived at 7.45. Just as early as we were standing at the door of the restaurant, we also stopped. Exactly at 7.50 left the restaurant last man from the first batch and the doors closed. Exactly at 8.00 the doors were opened to a new stream of vacationers who came for breakfast.
Within 10 minutes the staff tries to prepare the hall for new visitors. In principle, they begin to prepare earlier, while the “remnants” of the previous batch are still sitting, we saw this the day before. Our Brazilian friend yesterday smiled at us warmly.
After breakfast, the road awaited us again and it was time to get ready to hit the road.
Somehow it turned out that I did not initially give importance to the topic of souvenirs and began to think about it while already in Urayasu, so at the beginning of the trip all the souvenir shops were ignored, although in Kusatsu there are specific souvenir things that can only be purchased here.
- Yu no hana, literally “hot water flower,” is a small onsen in your home. Powder, extract obtained from Yubatake water. It consists of dried mineral deposits, mainly sulfur.
- Amanattō are mountain beans that bear fruit at altitudes of at least 700 meters above sea level. They are first dried, then soaked in water, and then cooked in sugar. The manufacturing company keeps the unique recipe secret.
- Manju is a sweet confection made from rice and buckwheat flour with azuki bean filling, steamed from hot springs.
We were only in Kusatsu for a day, or rather evening, and moved on in the morning.
At this point, the first part of the “onsen” tour was completed and began.
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© Hollow, World Art
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© Hollow, World Art
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© Hollow, World Art
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© Hollow, World Art
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© Sa4ko aka Kiyoso
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© Hollow, World Art
Added Episode 23β, which serves as an alternate ending and lead-up to the sequel in SG0.
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© Hollow, World Art
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