Edible mushrooms list. Edible mushrooms of Siberia and the Urals
Many people know and love Olivier. People call it “meat salad”. Also in Soviet time it was present at every festive table and was considered an integral attribute of the feast. In those days, few people cared about the history of Olivier salad, the only thing that mattered was that it was tasty and nutritious. Each time, the housewives prepared “meat salad” according to one and only recipe that everyone knew. Over time, cooks began to add their own special ingredients, with each claiming that his cooking option was correct. That is why the question often arises about what really needs to be put in Olivier salad. An origin story will help lift this veil.
Monsieur Lucien Olivier
Before you give laurels to the creator of the salad, you should find out who he was. Interestingly, the life of a talented chef will explain to us why this culinary masterpiece is so popular among the Russian people, and we will become aware of real story Olivier salad The creator of this dish was named Lucien Olivier, he was a Frenchman capable of culinary art. He was born in 1838. He had two more older brothers, who cooked no less tasty. But they chose to stay in their homeland. In his youth, Lucien went to Moscow in order to earn extra money. He chose this particular country because he knew that Russian people were interested in this. This is where Olivier began. It is worth immediately noting that this family gave birth to an improved recipe for Provencal mayonnaise, which Lucien used in his kitchen. Olivier began his business by opening his own restaurant, “Hermitage,” which initially enjoyed enormous success.
The secret of the restaurant
Lucien quickly gained popularity. All this became possible thanks to mayonnaise, to which he added mustard correct proportions and several spices, which gave the sauce an original spice. The huge demand prompted the chef to open another restaurant in France. His brothers enjoyed the same success in France and were also able to start their own business.
Olivier: the story of a culinary masterpiece
As you know, if you eat only sausage, you soon get bored with it, and you want to try something new. The same principle worked here: people were tired of this spicy monotony, and there were fewer and fewer customers in the restaurant. It was thanks to this that Lucien began to think about something new. interesting dish that would attract customers. During culinary experiments he was born new recipe, now known to everyone as Olivier salad. The history of the origin of this dish is so interesting that you just can’t wait to try it. But it is known that today’s salads are radically different from the one that was created in the beginning. It was exquisite and something unusual, something that returned the popularity of the Hermitage, and its owner the glory of a great culinary specialist. Fans of this dish gave it the name Olivier. The story doesn't end there.
Original recipe
Lucien himself named the dish he created “Game Mayonnaise” and could not call it by his own name - “Olivier”. Classic recipe the French chef did not change it at first, and it consisted of well-cooked partridge and hazel grouse meat, between them he put the jelly that was left over from the broth. He also cut the tongue of a young calf into pieces and placed it around the edges, alternating with small ones. Then he poured it with a small amount of mayonnaise, which he made with his own hands. There was a space left in the center, which he filled with coarsely chopped eggs and gherkins. He served all this to visitors who enjoyed this combination.
Olivier's secret
The history of the creation of this dish, one might say, has just begun. Many cooks and just housewives tried to repeat this recipe in their kitchens, but, to their surprise, nothing worked. Many tried to find out what the secret was, but Lucien prepared the dish alone, indoors without revealing your secrets. In fact, the secret was in that same mayonnaise that restaurant visitors had recently become “bored” with.
Gourmet dish turns into salad
Lucien tried to make his new dish not only tasty, but also original in appearance. But soon he had to make some adjustments and change its external beauty, and this did not make the salad any less popular. The fact is that the ingredients that were placed in the center of the plate were rather intended for decoration. But Russian people do not have the mentality to leave food untouched. This is precisely what reflected the fact that the history of the origin of Olivier has changed a little. One day, Lucien noticed that his visitors mixed all the ingredients and only then ate them. He realized that for Russian people a dish is not as important as its taste, so he interpreted own recipe. Now the cook cut all the ingredients into slices, poured sufficient quantity branded mayonnaise and mixed everything well. The Russian people now have an exquisite and favorite Olivier salad. The French chef took the classic recipe with him without giving away the secret. The great cook passed away in 1883.
New life for salad
We can say that the story of the Olivier salad did not end here either. Although Lucien never revealed the original recipe to anyone, the dish was “reconstructed” in 1904.
One former restaurant visitor recalled all the ingredients that the creator of this masterpiece added. The only discrepancy was the composition of the Provençal sauce, to which Lucien added his “secret” spices. So, in new salad included the following components:
- fillet from two boiled hazel grouse;
- 25 crayfish;
- one veal tongue;
- half a can of Kabul soybeans;
- half a jar of pickles;
- 200 grams of salad (fresh);
- 100 grams of pressed caviar (black);
- two fresh cucumbers (chopped);
- 5 hard-boiled eggs;
- 100 grams of capers.
All components were seasoned with special French Provençal. It was made from 400 grams olive oil, vinegar and two fresh yolks. These ingredients came from France.
Having looked at the history of the Olivier salad and briefly learned about its origins, many will notice that the modern dish is fundamentally different from the one that was originally served.
This is not surprising, since in Soviet years people did not have such an abundance of food on their tables that wealthy restaurant owners and nobles could afford. Has become popular among most families new option Olivier, which many still use today. Almost everyone loves him since childhood. Here is its recipe:
- 4 hard-boiled eggs;
- half a kilo of Doctor’s sausage;
- 4 boiled potatoes;
- 4 pickled cucumbers;
- a can of canned peas;
- a pack of Provençal;
- herbs and salt as desired.
All components are finely chopped, mixed and seasoned with the famous sauce. Here, everyone's favorite Soviet-era dish is ready!
Salad interpretations
Today Olivier has a different name and is better known as “meat salad”. That is why many people remembered that they should not add sausage to it, but should put white meat. Since partridges and hazel grouse are difficult to get, housewives boil many types of Olivier, which differ in their composition, with this ingredient. Now they put carrots, apples, and onions in salads. Other components, on the contrary, are removed. Here is one of the recipes for a modified Olivier:
- 4 eggs;
- 4 potatoes;
- 1 apple;
- 1 onion;
- 1 breast;
- 1 can of peas;
- 3 pickled cucumbers;
- 2 carrots.
Vegetables, as usual, are boiled and chopped. The breast and eggs are also boiled and chopped. Onions and cucumbers are chopped. But it is worth considering that it is not recommended to store salads to which onions are added for a long time, since this vegetable gives the dish an unpleasant aftertaste over time. Next, peas are poured into Olivier. Everything is diluted with Provençal. If necessary, add herbs and salt.
The other option is a little different. You will still need the same amount of potatoes, eggs, carrots, breast. We put less pickled cucumbers, one is enough, add 100 grams of peas and the same amount of canned olives. Chopped fresh cucumber is also added. Refueled in the usual way.
The third method is interesting because you will need smoked fillet and 200 grams of champignons from a jar. A peeled apple with sourness is also added here, it is chopped small pieces. Next, 200 grams of peas, three “uniforms”, four eggs. All crushed components are mixed. Olivier is salted and peppered. Next, you need to take 250 grams of fatty sour cream out of the refrigerator, add a teaspoon of granulated sugar and salt into it. This mass is thoroughly beaten, after which 2 tbsp are poured in a thin stream. spoons of lemon juice and a tablespoon of cognac. Add 1 tbsp to the future sauce. spoon of nutmeg. The prepared mixture is used to dress the salad.
Culture
Have you ever wondered why so many people love Olivier salad? And why exactly this dish is so popular in the area former USSR, associated with New Year's festivities?
And even those who can’t stand Olivier are well aware of the peculiar sacred meaning This salad is for almost everyone who loves the New Year holiday (that is, for the majority).
The special status of Olivier salad as a holiday dish has been perceived by us as such from the very beginning. early childhood. And it seems as if it had always been like this. In fact, the popularity of Olivier in our country is shining example kind of random product placement.
Where did this dish even come from? Much has been written about its origins, but too much artistic Most stories seem to raise a lot of questions.
So how did the “bourgeois” salad penetrate the life of almost every citizen of the former USSR? Why exactly Olivier salad has become the most favorite New Year's dish for many millions? Let's talk about everything in order.
The history of the birth of Olivier salad usually begins with the history of the birth of a man, a great hereditary chef. And this man was a certain Lucien Olivier. It is believed that Lucien was born in Moscow somewhere at the turn of 1837-1838 (nothing is known about the more exact birth date of the future “father of Olivier salad”).
Sources that mention the name of Lucien Olivier usually immediately take us to the mid-60s century before last, when wealthy Muscovites and guests of the city showered their attention on a restaurant called the Hermitage.
It was in this restaurant that visitors first tried the prototype of the Olivier salad, named after the supposed name hereditary cook(and part-time manager) of this establishment, Lucien Olivier. But this is where the first questions arise.
There is no evidence that Lucien Olivier was a hereditary chef
You might be surprised, but no reliable sources, which would confirm that restaurant manager Lucien was a great cook (and even a hereditary one, as can be read in some “historical” studies), does not exist.
What do we even know about Lucien? The man is believed to be French or Belgian of French descent. However, here too we encounter with the same problem: no matter how hard you try, you will not be able to find a reliable primary source for this information (and many enthusiasts and historians have done this on purpose).
What do Moscow archives say about people with the surname Olivier who lived in this city at that time? It is known for certain that in the address book of 1842 year there is a mention of only one Olivier, who then lived in Moscow. Perhaps a “great cook” was born in his family?
It is unlikely. The likelihood is that it was in the family of this Olivier, a merchant and owner of a hairdressing salon named Osip, who then grew up four-year-old Lucien, the future creator of the super-popular salad, is practically nil: although Osip had four children and three of them were boys, none of the children matched either by age or name.
Was there even a man named Lucien Olivier?
Behind most We owe the fragmentary information that we have about Lucien Olivier as the manager of the Hermitage restaurant to such a person as the writer Count Vladimir Gilyarovsky. And it would be possible to refer to his information, if not for one “but”: Gilyarovsky was at one time called nothing less than a collector of urban legends. Legends and rumors.
And, nevertheless: if you believe the same archival sources (namely, they are the most reliable), the Hermitage restaurant, which opened in luxury hotel "Hermitage" on Trubnaya Square in Moscow, like the hotel itself, were under the management of a certain... Nikolai Olivier. Another Olivier? Where did he come from?!
Nikolai Olivier was first mentioned in 1868 in this Moscow guidebook in hospitals, shopping stores, various enterprises, educational institutions, moneylender offices, as well as hotels and restaurants.
Who was the first to talk about Lucien Olivier as a chef?
The writer Gilyarovsky, in his descriptions of the life and traditions of Muscovites of those years, described the Hermitage establishment as very popular and elite place. And it was he, Vladimir Alekseevich Gilyarovsky, who described the talents of chef Olivier, who allegedly cooked exclusively delicious salad, which made Lucien popular throughout Moscow.
Gilyarovsky personally, of course, could not see this, since he was born only in 1855; his book “Moscow and Muscovites” was published in 1926. And now the most interesting thing: any other information sources, about which we would have learned about Lucien Olivier as a talented hereditary chef, are simply absent.
However, the manager of the Hermitage named Lucien existed, being, quite obviously, Nicholas, who changed his name to a more French one. For what? Perhaps to match "Frenchness" of the restaurant itself. One can only guess about the motives of Nicholas (Lucien), since the man died in 1883, leaving behind almost no data.
Could a hotel and restaurant manager personally undertake the preparation of dishes in the restaurant of the hotel he manages? Hypothetically, such a possibility cannot be excluded, however no evidence We do not have this fact, except for the existence of a beautiful legend about the hereditary cook Lucien Olivier (and many speculations built on the basis of this legend). But we have Olivier salad.
Real Olivier recipe
First Olivier salad
The question immediately arises: perhaps there was no Olivier salad then? There was, although the history of Olivier, like a salad, no less confusing than the story of Lucien Olivier as a chef. There were many delicious dishes, which the sophisticated Moscow noble public actually tried for the first time in the Hermitage restaurant in the hotel of the same name.
By the way, another Russian writer, Pyotr Dmitrievich Boborykin, who lived precisely in that era and visited the Hermitage restaurant, sincerely admired incredibly huge kitchen this institution in its articles published in the popular monthly. A French manager, allegedly born in Russia, was also mentioned there.
At the same time, as Bobrykin assured, insisting on this information, in the kitchen of the Hermitage restaurant, which hosted all the nobility not only of Russia, but also of all of Europe, about six dozen chefs. Did it make sense for a hotel manager to take over the stove?
However, let's return to the salad, or rather, to its prototype!
The Hermitage restaurant served very tasty and varied dish(perhaps really a salad), which later became known as by the name of the manager restaurant. Perhaps it was called that right away, in the restaurant’s menu, although there is no indication of this.
What did the first recipe for this dish look like, did it look like a salad at all? unknown! Everything else that can be found about the Olivier salad in connection with the Hermitage restaurant is stories, legends and speculation.
One of these legends says that the restaurant’s chef (according to the same legend, the chef was Lucien Olivier) served his new culinary masterpiece, which was not a salad at all. Rather, it was something like this ensemble of various products, generously sprinkled with Provençal sauce. The dish supposedly included crayfish necks, partridges, hazel grouse, lanspig, veal tongue and much more, including separately presented potatoes and eggs.
Some of these products are actually used as ingredients for modern Olivier salad. But, as the legend goes, visitors to the Hermitage did not appreciate the exquisite taste of the artist and maestro Olivier, mixing all the ingredients together. And the next day the cook, upset by the ignorance of the public, served the same dish, but in mixed form. Like, this is how the Olivier salad appeared.
I want to believe in this memorable legend, but there is one nuance (at least): the dish itself was supposedly called “Game Mayonnaise.” However cookbooks the middle of the century before last presented us with a lot of dishes made from pork, beef, hare, and other living creatures under this name. It seems that mayonnaise became a sauce later.
Where did you disappear to original recipe Olivie?
After Olivier's death, the Hermitage restaurant was repeatedly repaired, completed, rebuilt, and then finally closed in 1917. Were any recipes lost? It is obvious. Was there a recipe for that famous Olivier salad among them? As you understand, there are no direct indications of this. But the story didn’t end there, it just began.
Beginning in 1884, recipes began to appear in various culinary and semi-culinary publications around the country that were allegedly references to “the same one.” famous recipe Olivier salad, popular among the Moscow nobility and city guests. Recipes changed from edition to edition and from publication to publication.
The authors of each subsequent recipe could make changes to the “original” recipe, replacing, for example, hazel grouse with chicken, recommending Provencal sauce. By the way, standards for mayonnaise, as for the sauce we are used to, called “Provencal”, were already developed in the Soviet Union. By the way, there were no preservatives in it, except for vinegar from alcohol.
Needless to say that among the writers culinary recipes, as well as among publishers and editors, there were many not the most talented people, who counted, first of all, on the fact that to earn money? Without trying too hard to look for any historical truth, some even made up the ingredients of the “first Olivier” (adding, for example, black caviar).
Salad for the New Year's table
Soviet Olivier
The glory of the Olivier salad as “a unique dish with incredible taste and nutritional qualities, the recipe of which was irretrievably lost,” is simply could not sink into oblivion. And she didn’t sink. In famous restaurants Soviet Union many chefs tried to speculate (in in a good way) on the long-standing glory of Olivier salad.
This can be called speculation purely conditionally, since the chefs of the establishments sincerely tried to cook something close to the original(By at least, close to what was published in old pre-revolutionary culinary publications).
Ideologically correct Olivier
It is known, for example, that in the mid-30s of the last century in some restaurants in the capital, salad a la Olivier was no longer served with expensive ingredients, echoes of the bourgeois past (take the same hazel grouse!), but with ideologically verified red carrots. And it was called “Stolichny”.
Perhaps the story about the “ideologically verified” carrots is also a legend, and the chefs were simply forced to try new ingredients, including the same green peas instead of capers. And the sausage that appeared in the dish was the result of attempts to reduce the cost of the final product.
It must be said that by that time the Olivier salad was known under several names: “Russian salad”, “Winter”. Again "Stolichny". There is no clear justification for this. You can come across fabrications on the topic that “Russian” differs from “Olivier” in that one uses meat, and the other uses sausage.
However, there is no logic in this, given the previous narrative. Most likely, in the Soviet public catering system they tried to get away from not entirely popular name"Olivier", trying not only new ingredients, but also new names. As we see, one, the second, and the third have taken root. There are even names like “Game Salad.”
How did doctor's sausage appear in Olivier?
After the end of the Great Patriotic War Soviet people actively restored the destroyed country. But even among the harsh everyday life, sometimes I wanted to arrange a holiday for myself - with festive dishes and drinks. Olivier unexpectedly became an attribute of the festival. But, since chicken fillet It was expensive, and cheaper doctor's sausage began to be used everywhere.
In addition, this boiled sausage, developed back in 1936 as an element dietary nutrition, recommended for those who ruined my health as a result of the Civil War and the First World War, it was recommended to citizens even after the end of the Great Patriotic War.
Russians are idealists and great inventors. Russian Sherlock Holmes is the most soulful of all existing ones, films about cowboys are kind and thoroughly imbued with the Russian spirit, and what can we say about the famous “Three Musketeers”... Well, can French pedants compare with the charming Boyarsky with a radiant smile. The same thing happens not only in cinema, but also in Russian cooking. Many dishes from foreign cuisines are processed to suit our needs, acquiring in our conditions a new, and sometimes completely different, taste. This happened with the Olivier salad. The history of Olivier salad is known to few. The famous Olivier salad was invented by a French chef in Russia in the second half of the 19th century, and the name of the famous chef misleads many. Nevertheless, a fact is a fact. Lucien Olivier is the founder of the famous Hermitage restaurant, as well as the author of a magnificent salad that is still alive.
The elite restaurant Hermitage was built by Lucien Olivier after for long years life in Moscow, when he realized what was missing in the Russian capital. The French chic was missing. Joining forces with the wealthy merchant Yakov Pegov, Olivier buys a plot in the center of Moscow and intends to build a first-class restaurant according to the best French standards. By the mid-60s of the 19th century, on the site of a booth selling snuff, a luxurious building with white columns, crystal chandeliers, isolated offices and luxurious interiors arose. This was a new thing for Moscow at that time, and the nascent bourgeoisie poured into the restaurant. At first, Olivier’s establishment was called the Tavern in the Russian style, and the waiters were also dressed in the “tavern style.” The following facts can speak about the importance and popularity of the restaurant: in 1879, a gala dinner was held in the Hermitage in honor of I.S. Turgenev, in 1880 - in honor of F.M. Dostoevsky, in 1899 - the famous celebration of the centenary of Pushkin’s birthday, which was attended by all the eminent writers and poets of that time. In the Hermitage, university professors celebrated anniversaries and students celebrated Tatiana’s Day, the intelligentsia gathered and rich merchants feasted. In general, Olivier’s restaurant, as well as its excellent cuisine, attracted the best people that time.
Lucien Olivier, Jr. three brothers Olivier, with whom the history of the Olivier salad began, was very young and went to Moscow to work. Like many Frenchmen, he hoped to use his culinary skills in a country that has always respected French cuisine. While his brothers were cooking for French gourmets, Lucien was opening his restaurant, the Hermitage. At first, the business brought in significant income, and the young Frenchman prepared dishes familiar from childhood. This success was greatly facilitated by the “family” recipe, an improvement of mayonnaise sauce or mayonnaise. At the beginning of the 19th century, the Olivier family began to add mustard when making the sauce, as well as several secret spices, which made the taste of the familiar sauce slightly spicy. The popularity of the Olivier family's mayonnaise was so strong that it allowed the older brothers to keep their business in France, and Lucien to open a Moscow “branch” on Trubnaya Square. The building in which the restaurant was located has still been preserved; it is house number 14 on Petrovsky Boulevard, corner of Neglinnaya. So someday a memorial plaque or a whole monument to “Olivier Salad” may appear on it.
But everything is transitory in this world, and gradually the sauce alone became not enough for the success of the establishment. Its taste quickly became boring, and the changing fashion swung towards skinny, pale young ladies, whose beauty, naturally, was hampered by the appetizing and high-calorie Olivier sauces. There was an urgent need to come up with something. And then Lucien Olivier came up with a new salad, a true work of art. His taste was so exquisite that it instantly brought the Frenchman the fame of a great chef, and the popularity of his restaurant, which was beginning to fade, flared up with new strength. Visitors named the new salad “Olivier Salad,” which was quite in the tradition of Russian names. Since then, the name Olivier has become a household name, and they have tried to repeat the salad countless times, eventually simplifying the recipe so much that its modern version is the exact opposite of the original. Many chefs tried to repeat Olivier’s recipe, but, not knowing all the components, they inevitably failed - the taste of the real “Olivier Salad” could only be appreciated in the Hermitage restaurant.
The taste of the famous dish was achieved to a large extent due to Monsieur Olivier’s own mayonnaise recipe. They said that the Frenchman jealously kept the cooking recipe and carried out the operation for its preparation in a special room behind closed door. The journey of the sauce was not easy. Initially, Olivier made a sauce called “Game Mayonnaise.” It consisted of boiled fillets of hazel grouse and partridge, layered with layers of jelly from the broth. Along the edges of the dish lay boiled crayfish necks and small pieces of tongue. All this was flavored with a small amount of Provencal sauce self-made. In the center of the structure was decorated with a mound of potatoes with gherkins and slices boiled eggs as decoration. At the same time, according to the author’s plan, the central potato part was intended rather for beauty. One day, Lucien Olivier noticed that some Russians who ordered this dish immediately broke the whole plan, stirring the entire structure with a spoon, and devoured this tasty mass with great appetite. The next day, an enterprising Frenchman mixed all the ingredients and poured a thick sauce on it. This is how the famous salad was born, reborn from the refined but inconvenient “game mayonnaise” into the no less refined, but closer to the Russian soul, “Olivier salad.”
Here is the recipe for the classic “Olivier salad” prepared in better times in the Hermitage restaurant (restored in 1904 according to the descriptions of one restaurant regular):
Fillet of two boiled hazel grouse,
One boiled veal tongue,
About 100 grams of pressed black caviar,
200 grams fresh leaves salad,
25 boiled crayfish or one large lobster,
200-250 grams of small cucumbers,
Half a jar of Kabul soya (soybean paste),
2 finely chopped fresh cucumbers,
100 grams of capers,
5 finely chopped, hard-boiled eggs,
Dressing with Provencal sauce: 400 grams of olive oil, beaten with two fresh egg yolks, with the addition of French vinegar and mustard.
One of the secrets of the classic taste of Olivier salad was the addition of certain spices by the Frenchman. The composition of these seasonings, unfortunately, is unknown, so the true taste of the salad can only be imagined based on the descriptions of contemporaries.
The preparation itself was no less exciting:
Fry the hazel grouse in a 1-2 centimeter layer of oil over high heat for 5-10 minutes. Then put them in boiling water or broth (beef or chicken), add 150 ml Madeira per 850 ml broth, 10-20 pitted olives, 10-20 small size champignons and cook for 20-30 minutes over low heat under the lid. When the meat begins to slightly separate from the bones, add salt, let cook for a couple more minutes and turn off the flame. Place the pan with hazel grouse, without pouring out the broth, into a large container with cold water and let cool. The purpose of this is to allow the hazel grouse meat to cool gradually. The fact is that when separated while hot, the meat begins to dry out and loses tenderness. However, it is necessary not to overdo it and separate the warm meat - do not let the hazel grouse freeze, otherwise it will completely stop being removed from the bones. Wrap the removed meat in foil and place in a cool place. Do not pour out the broth after cooking the mushrooms - it will make a great soup! (if you don’t find hazel grouse and decide to replace them with chicken, remember - the chicken must be cut into 2-3 parts and cooked a little longer - 30-40 minutes).
The tongue should be free of fat, lymph nodes, sublingual muscle tissue and mucus. Perhaps half the tongue will be enough. Rinse your tongue thoroughly cold water, put it in cold water, bring to a boil and cook over low heat until closed lid 2-4 hours (time depends on the age of the tongue owner - for a young calf 2 hours will be enough). Half an hour before the tongue is ready, add chopped carrots, parsley root, onion and a piece of bay leaf. Add salt 5-10 minutes before the end of cooking. As soon as the tongue is cooked, immediately place it in a container of cold water for 20-30 seconds, then place it on a plate and remove the skin from it (if the tongue still burns your fingers, dip it in water again). After cleaning the tongue, put it back into the broth and quickly bring it to a boil, then turn off the flame and set the pan to cool in a large container filled with ice water. Also wrap the cooled tongue in foil and place it in a cool place.
Cut pressed caviar into small cubes.
Wash the lettuce leaves thoroughly, dry and cut immediately before cooking.
Dip live crayfish, washed in cold water, into the boiling solution, head down. To prepare a solution for boiling crayfish, take: 25 grams of parsley, onions and carrots, 10 grams of tarragon, 30-40 grams of dill, 1 bay leaf, a few peas of allspice and 50 grams of salt. After placing the crayfish in boiling water, let the water boil again and cook for another 10 minutes. After turning off the heat, do not remove it immediately, but let the crayfish brew, then cool the pan with the finished crayfish using the method described above.
Finely chop the pickles right before mixing.
Grind the soybeans before adding to the salad.
Peel fresh cucumbers and chop finely (not necessarily evenly - you can also “crush”). Also chop the capers finely, after drying them.
Eggs should be large and fresh. Do not overcook them under any circumstances. Pay close attention to this part. The eggs should feel fresh and the white should be tender, not rubbery. Cook for 7-8 minutes, but not 15.
Chop all the ingredients and mix (try to do this carefully, using upward movements). Add your own homemade mayonnaise and serve immediately. It is important to take into account the amount of alcohol guests drink. The more, the hotter the sauce should be. If the guests are sober, then it would be more logical to season with classic mayonnaise to appreciate delicate taste all ingredients.
This was the recipe at the time it was reproduced by one of regular customers restaurant. Perhaps something was not taken into account, but the main components that are difficult to hide from the sophisticated public are present in the recipe. The secret of the spices that made the taste of the dish signature and unique, unfortunately, has been lost. After the death of Lucien Olivier in 1883, the Hermitage restaurant went to the “Olivier Partnership”, for a long time the restaurant passed from hand to hand, and the famous recipe went to the rich houses of the capital, or rather to the kitchens of these houses. Personal chefs for many richest people the capitals tried to recreate the recipe of the French master and offered this famous salad at dinner parties. This situation could have lasted forever if not for the First World War and then the revolution of 1917. The sudden disappearance of many products hit Olivier salad hard. At that time there was no time for delights - for many years the country plunged into the darkness of timelessness, and on the food side - into severe hunger and a rationing system for distributing food. But already in 1924, the era of NEP began and products that seemed to be irretrievably gone again appeared in the country. However, much was no longer possible to return. Branded “bourgeois” hazel grouse or crayfish necks became unavailable, and simply irrelevant among the city dwellers of that time. NEP times gave us several salad options. One of these restaurants, and it must be said that it was central at that time, since senior party workers dined there, was the Moscow restaurant. It was headed by Ivan Mikhailovich Ivanov. He preserved, although in a modified form, the recipe for the famous dish, close to the original. And the realities of time have made their own changes to the recipe.
So, - Olivier Salad recipe according to the Moscow restaurant in the mid-20s of the 20th century:
Ingredients:
6 potatoes,
2 onions,
3 medium sized carrots,
2 pickled cucumbers,
1 apple,
200 grams of boiled poultry meat,
1 glass of green peas,
3 boiled eggs,
half a glass of olive mayonnaise,
salt, pepper to taste.
Preparation:
Take vegetables average size, fresh. Cut all ingredients finely and very evenly into equal pieces. Boil the potatoes and carrots, peel them, chop everything, mix and season with mayonnaise, top with parsley and apple slices.
In the early 30s, the chef of the Moscow restaurant, Ivan Mikhailovich Ivanov, adjusted Lucien Olivier’s recipe according to the times, calling the salad “Stolichny”. This name is not reflected in the book “On Tasty and Healthy Food” of 1939, but it does contain “Game Salad”, the recipe for which is strikingly similar to Olivier’s salad. Reached cookbook 1955 “Stolichny Salad” has an adapted, but nevertheless close to the original composition.
Capital salad.
Ingredients:
60 g poultry or game,
60 g potatoes,
40 g fresh, salted or pickled cucumbers,
10 g green salad,
10 g of crayfish necks,
45 g eggs,
15 g “Yuzhny” sauce,
70 g mayonnaise,
10 g pickles,
10 olives.
Preparation:
Boiled or fried poultry or game, boiled peeled potatoes, fresh, salted or pickled cucumbers, hard-boiled eggs, cut into thin slices (2-2.5 cm). Finely chop the green salad leaves. Mix everything, season with mayonnaise, add “Yuzhny” sauce. Place the salad in a heap in a salad bowl and decorate with mugs or slices of hard-boiled eggs, pieces of pickles, lettuce leaves, and mugs of fresh cucumbers. On the salad you can put beautifully cut slices of game fillet, crayfish tails or pieces of canned crab and olives.
The main principle - grind everything and season with mayonnaise - got wide use in the vastness of the Soviet and post-Soviet space, gave rise to many variations on the theme of the famous salad, and modern version Olivier salad is called “Russian salad” or “salade a la Russe” all over the world. Hazel grouse were first replaced with partridges, then chicken, and then just sausage. There were also recipes with beef, but this is too tough a component, and beef did not take root. Crayfish necks, unfortunately, have sunk into oblivion, and in the 20th century they were no longer added to salads; boiled carrots were added instead. Capers were replaced with more accessible green peas, and onions appeared in the salad, which immediately gave it a pungent taste. Lettuce leaves were replaced with parsley. Soy, veal tongue, like pressed black caviar(and truffles, according to one version), also disappeared from the recipe. Mayonnaise was replaced from homemade mayonnaise to factory made. Be that as it may, the Olivier salad continued to live even in these difficult conditions, being a symbol of chic and delicacy for a large part of the impoverished country. In the post-war period, in the second half of the 50s, when the country was experiencing powerful growth and the standard of living rose again, the old salad reappeared on the holiday table. Many products returned to sale, but even banal peas or Provencal mayonnaise were in terrible short supply, and these products were always set aside to create the “holiday” Olivier salad. Simplifying, Olivier's salad recipe acquired the main thing - from quite high-calorie dish, with tasty, but still heavy and expensive ingredients, the salad became a vegetable salad, the meat portion of which was incomparably small.
As in the 19th century, modern Olivier salad is made from those products that are most available in this moment. If caviar, crayfish necks, hazel grouse and capers were available then, now it’s boiled sausage, green pea, carrots and onions. And you can buy mayonnaise in the store. Losing expensive ingredients, the salad inevitably gained popularity among wide sections of the population of one sixth of the planet, and now boasts not just a name, but the name of a whole class of salads that began to appear in late Soviet times. After all, the salad with canned fish, and from crab sticks, as well as numerous other Soviet salads, appeared thanks to the ingenuity and partly poverty of the counters, forcing the imagination of housewives and cooks to work. Symbolic meaning Olivier salad for Russian cuisine cannot be overestimated. This is always the main dish on the table, in the best salad bowl; no other salad deserves such a constant presence at a festive feast. The tradition of putting food on plates is indicative. Olivier is always placed either first or after the potatoes. This is a respectful attitude simple salad could not hide from the unobtrusive gaze of foreign guests, who, of course, were also treated to Olivier salad. Throughout the rest of the world, our salad is known as “Russian salad”, but it is more correct to call modern version“Soviet Olivier” dishes. Like “Soviet champagne,” it has its own destiny, its own unforgettable taste and is considered the same powerful and indestructible symbol of the holiday.
Many people know and love Olivier. People call it “meat salad”. Even in Soviet times, it was present at every festive table and was considered an integral attribute of the feast. In those days, few people cared about the history of Olivier salad, the only thing that mattered was that it was tasty and nutritious. Each time, the housewives prepared “meat salad” according to one and only recipe that everyone knew. Over time, cooks began to add their own special ingredients, with each claiming that his cooking option was correct. That is why the question often arises about what really needs to be put in Olivier salad. An origin story will help lift this veil.
Monsieur Lucien Olivier
Before you give laurels to the creator of the salad, you should find out who he was. It’s interesting that the life of a talented chef will explain to us why this culinary masterpiece is so popular among the Russian people, and we will know the real history of the Olivier salad. The creator of this dish was named Lucien Olivier, he was a Frenchman capable of culinary art. He was born in 1838. He had two more older brothers, who cooked no less tasty. But they chose to stay in their homeland. In his youth, Lucien went to Moscow in order to earn extra money. He chose this country because he knew that Russian people were interested in French cuisine. This is where the history of Olivier salad began. It is worth immediately noting that this family gave birth to an improved recipe for Provencal mayonnaise, which Lucien used in his kitchen. Olivier began his business by opening his own restaurant, “Hermitage,” which initially enjoyed enormous success.
The secret of the restaurant
Lucien quickly gained popularity. All this became possible thanks to mayonnaise, to which he added mustard in the correct proportions and several spices, which gave the sauce an original spice. Huge demand prompted the chef to open another restaurant on Trubnaya Square. His brothers enjoyed the same success in France and were also able to start their own business.
Olivier: the story of a culinary masterpiece
As you know, if you eat only sausage, you soon get bored with it, and you want to try something new. The same principle worked here: people were tired of this spicy monotony, and there were fewer and fewer customers in the restaurant. It was thanks to this that Lucien thought about a new interesting dish that would attract customers. During culinary experiments, he came up with a new recipe, now known to everyone as Olivier salad. The history of the origin of this dish is so interesting that you just can’t wait to try it. But it is known that today’s salads are radically different from the one that was created in the beginning. It was exquisite and something unusual, something that returned the popularity of the Hermitage, and its owner the glory of a great culinary specialist. Fans of this dish gave it the name Olivier. The story doesn't end there.
Original recipe
Lucien himself named the dish he created “Game Mayonnaise” and could not call it by his own name - “Olivier”. At first, the French chef did not change the classic recipe, and it consisted of well-cooked partridge and hazel grouse meat, between them he put the jelly that was left over from the broth. He also cut the tongue of a young calf into pieces and placed it around the edges, alternating with small crayfish necks. Next, he poured it with a small amount of mayonnaise, which he made himself. There was a space left in the center, which he filled with boiled potatoes, coarsely chopped eggs and gherkins. He served all this to visitors who enjoyed this combination.
Olivier's secret
The history of the creation of this dish, one might say, has just begun. Many cooks and just housewives tried to repeat this recipe in their kitchens, but, to their surprise, nothing worked. Many tried to find out what the secret was, but Lucien prepared the dish alone, indoors, without revealing his secrets. In fact, the secret was in that same mayonnaise that restaurant visitors had recently become “bored” with.
Gourmet dish turns into salad
Lucien tried to make his new dish not only tasty, but also original in appearance. But soon he had to make some adjustments and change its external beauty, and this did not make the salad any less popular. The fact is that the ingredients that were placed in the center of the plate were rather intended for decoration. But Russian people do not have the mentality to leave food untouched. This is precisely what reflected the fact that the history of the origin of Olivier has changed a little. One day, Lucien noticed that his visitors mixed all the ingredients and only then ate them. He realized that for Russian people it is not so important appearance dishes like his taste, so he interpreted his own recipe. Now the cook cut all the ingredients into slices, poured in a sufficient amount of branded mayonnaise and mixed everything well. The Russian people now have an exquisite and favorite Olivier salad. The French chef took the classic recipe with him without giving away the secret. The great cook passed away in 1883.
One former restaurant visitor recalled all the ingredients that the creator of this masterpiece added. The only discrepancy was the composition of the Provençal sauce, to which Lucien added his “secret” spices. So, the new salad included the following components:
- fillet from two boiled hazel grouse;
- 25 crayfish;
- one veal tongue;
- half a can of Kabul soybeans;
- half a jar of pickles;
- 200 grams of salad (fresh);
- 100 grams of pressed caviar (black);
- two fresh cucumbers (chopped);
- 5 hard-boiled eggs;
- 100 grams of capers.
All components were seasoned with special French Provençal. It was made from 400 grams of olive oil, vinegar and two fresh yolks. These ingredients came from France.
Having looked at the history of the Olivier salad and briefly learned about its origins, many will notice that the modern dish is fundamentally different from the one that was originally served.
The ease of production and availability of ingredients made Olivier salad an extremely popular dish during the Soviet years. Olivier was an indispensable attribute of the Soviet festive table at New Year and other holidays. Therefore, we want to bring to your attention the exact modern recipe for Olivier salad with a photo (well, in case there are those who don’t know it or have forgotten it).
Olivier salad: classic recipe with photos and history of creation
Today we want to talk about a real Russian dish - Olivier salad . The history of Olivier salad is known to few. Despite this French name, it was invented in Russia in the second half of the 19th century, and its creator was the famous Moscow restaurateur of French origin, Lucien Olivier. Whose name, in fact, gave the name to this salad.
Olivier salad - classic recipe (history)
It should be noted that Lucien Olivier was simply a culinary genius, and he created many dishes and invented a large number of various culinary technologies. As for the Olivier salad, in most European countries it is still called "Russian salad".
According to the original idea of its creator Olivier should not have become a salad at all- it was an exquisite dish, which was called “Game Mayonnaise.” It was a whole composition. The basis was boiled fillet hazel grouse, finely chopped and laid out together with jelly from the broth, next to it was an equally exquisite composition of slices of veal tongue and crayfish necks. In the middle, above them, towered a pyramid of boiled and diced potatoes and gherkins. Boiled eggs, cut into slices, like the potato pyramid itself, were intended solely for decoration. The recipe for the mayonnaise used for this dish was also unique.
Olivier salad - an eternal Russian classicWhen the restaurateur first presented this most exquisite dish, literally within a few minutes he saw that most of the visitors mix it into a common mixture and, in this form, place it on plates. Lucien Olivier's indignation knew no bounds. As a sign of protest and to express his attitude to the manners of Russians, or rather to the lack of their manners, the next day the restaurateur specially cut all the ingredients, immediately mixed them and seasoned them with mayonnaise, and served them in this form. Well, the result turned out to be the opposite of what was expected, but very effective - the salad created a sensation and finally won its place on festive tables, and later conquered the whole world.
![](https://i2.wp.com/zagorodnaya-life.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Salat-Olive-3.jpg)
Although all the ingredients used in the original salad are known today, the true recipe is lost forever, since Lucien Olivier used spices and herbs in its preparation, the names and proportions of which he took with him to another world. However, in the original salad everything was not so simple - the mayonnaise was special, and the preparation technology was quite complex.
The main secret of the amazing taste of the salad was small quantity some seasonings that Olivier personally introduced into his mayonnaise in a secret room. It was the composition of these seasonings that could not be reliably restored. Well, the rest of the products included in the salad were in plain sight, so there was no special secret.
Classic Olivier salad - recipe
However, modern Olivier salad remains one of the most favorite dishes of our compatriots and it is simply impossible to imagine a festive feast without it. This salad is also on restaurant menus. Therefore, we want to offer you an accurate modern Olivier salad recipe (well, in case there are those who don’t know it or have forgotten):
![](https://i2.wp.com/zagorodnaya-life.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Salat-Olive-sostav.jpg)
Ingredients of Olivier salad:
![](https://i0.wp.com/zagorodnaya-life.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Salat-Olive-sposob-prigotovleniya.jpg)
Method for preparing Olivier salad:
- Wash the potatoes and carrots thoroughly and boil until soft, then cool, peel and cut into cubes.
- Boil the eggs and also chop them.
- Peel the onion and finely chop.
- We also cut the cucumbers into small cubes.
- Peel the apple and cut it into cubes.
- Cut the boiled chicken (ham, sausage) into cubes.
- Combine all the chopped ingredients in one bowl, add peas, salt, pepper and season with mayonnaise.
- Mix thoroughly, let it brew a little and serve.
That's the whole secret. And the result will always be unsurpassed.
Video recipe for Olivier salad
Olivier salad is exactly the dish that has many variations:
Tsar Olivier
![](https://i1.wp.com/zagorodnaya-life.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Olive-po-starinomu-retseptu-e1514211362986.jpg)
![](https://i1.wp.com/zagorodnaya-life.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Olive-klassicheskiy-s-kolbasoy-e1514211736691.jpg)
Classic Olivier recipe
Olivier is warm
Olivier with salmon
Jellied "Olivier"
Olivier salad with crayfish tails and red caviar
Olivier salad with meat and fresh cucumbers
Salad Olivier “For the Bourgeoisie”
Olivier with chicken breast and poached egg
Olivier with fresh cucumber
Olivier original salad
Olivier with shrimp, avocado and homemade mayonnaise
Olivier salad is a real classic, just like herring under a fur coat and mimosa salad, without which it is simply impossible to imagine any holiday feast.