Along the Vychegda River. Vychegda - river in the Komi Republic

The name of the city of Solvychegodsk also reflects the river on which it stands. Difficult and willful. Vychegda - the right and most large influx Northern Dvina.

Behind the dry statistics figures (length 1130 km, basin area 121000km²,river slope - 0.000162) not to see the character of the river. Perhaps only the number of tributaries (1,137 tributaries, not counting 23 thousand streams up to 10 km long) will surprise: the Volga has only 200 tributaries.

The Vychegda River begins on the southern edge of the Timan Ridge in the Dzyur-Nyur swamp from the confluence of two streams - Lun-Bozh and Voy-Vozh in the Komi Republic. It flows into the Dvina near Kotlas. And he is a “hooligan” throughout his entire life.

Perhaps every settlement located on the banks of the Vychegda has its own history of disasters. During spring floods, the river rises several meters. For example, near the village of Ust-Nem at 730 cm. One can only imagine what it’s like for the residents.

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There are legends that the river destroyed many settlements during the flood. Including those that once stood on the site of Solvychegodsk. Bank protection works are currently saving the city and the temple on the shore. True, it is unknown for how long.

But the flood is not the only “quirk” of Vychegda. In terms of channel instability and sand mobility, it ranks first in Russia. Sometimes this leads to big economic problems (for example, even dredging work did not save the Beloborskaya bend; they somewhat slowed down the process of changing the riverbed, but the bend died, and the built river port turned out to be unnecessary, although a lot of money was invested in the project; the river simply went away). The Vychegda sometimes returns to old channels, sometimes it creates new ones, sometimes it straightens bends, sometimes it begins to meander, sometimes it erodes the banks, sometimes it creates shallows. Now dredging work on the Vychegda is practically not carried out, and monitoring of the river bed is also not carried out due to the futility of this activity.

All this, of course, makes navigation on the river difficult, especially at the beginning of navigation.

For a long time, Vychegda was the main route for communication with Siberia. To navigate the ships, a sail and oars were used, and a barge strap was used up the river. Sometimes these methods were combined.

In the sixties of the nineteenth century, the first steamships sailed along the river. Since the spring of 1898, the freight and passenger service Ustyug - Yarensk - Ust-Sysolsk by steamships became regular. At the beginning of the twentieth century, the Northern Shipping Company operated in the North, whose ships made voyages along the route Arkhangelsk - Kotlas - Yarensk - Ust-Sysolsk and Veliky Ustyug - Solvychegodsk - Yarensk - Ust-Sysolsk (since 1911, voyages were made six times a week).

Then the wheeled passenger steamer “N.Gogol” began its journey along the Vychegda. It is still running (carrying tourists on request) and is the oldest passenger ship in Russia still in operation. True, now it is called a “banquet walker”.

In the second half of the sixties, steamships were replaced by motor ships, and in the seventies - river motor ships "Zarya".

In the nineties, shipping on the Vychegda decreased sharply. Wood was mainly floated on the river in rafts. This is the cheapest way to transport timber, and therefore it was used very actively.

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But now timber floating has sharply decreased. With the cessation of rafting - and this is actually the only mass cargo that goes along the Vychegda - the river may fall out of the register navigable rivers. And that time is just around the corner.

River navigation signs can still be seen here and there in Solvychegodsk. Although now only the Kotlas "Afalina" runs here with the program "Solvychegodsk - an ancient city" (with excursions to the exhibitions of the Annunciation Cathedral complex and a sightseeing walk around the city, 5 hours, 1300 rub./adult, 1100 rub./school).

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It's a pleasure to ride this one. There are no high steep cliffs or noisy foamy rapids on the Vychegda, but its wide two-sided floodplain and the calm, leisurely stream winding through the wooded valley are surprisingly free and beautiful.

This is a place for fishing lovers. There is always someone standing by the river with a fishing rod, and from time to time boats loaded with the catch come.

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The fish here is good: chub, ruff, vendace, smelt, grayling; golden crucian carp, brown trout, bream, burbot, nelma, pike, minnow, dace, sculpin, perch, gudgeon, roach, river eel, salmon, whitefish, sterlet, lamprey, ide...

There is also such a miracle - the nine-spined stickleback. It shimmers rainbowly. We saw one like this on Kiy Island. It's unlikely that they eat it.

When they talk about northern nature, then the epithets “dim”, “meager”, “monotonous” are used more often than others. It's becoming a shame. Because in June there are so many colors on the banks of the Vychegda! We just walked along the bank and admired it.

The sedum is blooming.

The cat's paws are turning pink.

Mouse peas are spreading.

You can see wild carnations in the grass.

Meadow snapdragon in bright columns.

Irises. We were very surprised to see them in the forest.

Bells of different shades. Or, more precisely, for me “bells”, but I don’t know what they are actually called.

Cornflowers. Large, like garden ones. Or maybe they were gardeners, but “ran away”.

Maria calls these chickweed flowers her watch.

I don't know these by name.

And the riot of rose hips!

The aroma is rich and bright. The whole air was saturated with it.

And here is the first strawberry. There is a lot of it in the outskirts of the city.

Buttercups, forget-me-nots, plantain, clover, dandelions...

Young pines are also in “buds”.

Here and there you can find puddles or lakes like these, left by the Vychegda since spring.

The water in them is almost hot. And there is enough depth to splash around.

We also saw steep crumbling sections of the coast. The wind blows sand, what do the pines hold on to?

And then they start sandy beaches(or sand drifts?).

Wide, with soft sand, deserted.

Any resort will envy such beaches. But the water in Vychegda is icy. It warms up a little only in July if the weather remains warm. And today we are the only visitors to the beach. Expanse!

By the way, we came back from our walk with boletus and boletus mushrooms. We didn’t find them, but they found us. Since we couldn’t pass by the mushrooms, we brought them to the hotel. Stringed on a thread and dried.

The riddle that I still haven’t solved is the toponym “Vychegda” itself. Linguistic research on this topic seems complete nonsense. Nand in the Komi language this river is called Ezhva, Ežva - from ež “turf, young grass” and va “river”. Therefore, luminaries of linguistics tried to find words with a similar meaning and sound close to Vychegda in the languages ​​of the northern peoples. And they found it. In the Khanty language vanǯi “grass”, in the Mansi language vānsiŋ “overgrown with grass”, the Sami have the word “voucce”. This means that the word came from their common proto-language. Most often in dictionaries they write thatNameVychegda comes from ancient Ugrichiv ohgt or Obsk-Ugricvandz(i) oht "meadow river" wherehiv Andvandz(s) means “meadow”, “grass”, andohhhhhhhhhhhhhh "channel", "river". When adapting to Russian, the ending was added -A . At the same time, the dissimilarity of sound with the word “Vychegda” is explained by distortion due to phonetic difficulties.

It seems to me that such an explanation does not stand up to criticism.Ivanovo Sudogda, Yaroslavl Pechegda and Gda, Vladimir Shizhegda, Vologda Shogda and Vologda, in the Krasnoyarsk TerritoryNyaksingda, Dyagda andImangda, in Amur region Inaragda and Tygda, in the Khabarovsk region Upagda... It turns out that the Russians not only called the Rurikovichs, but also the Ugrians, so that there would be someone to name the rivers...

It seems to me that Vychegda has Russian roots. Available in explanatory dictionary Dahl's word "shigda" means cattle tendons, from which strong threads are made. The word “povnegda” is also noted in dictionaries - an adverb with the meaning “at that time.” There are many words in the Russian language with the stressed prefix vy- (undercut, protrusion, callout, dressing, embroidery). The truth is somewhere near…

But research on Russian toponymy has not been conducted for a long time. And, probably, we should be glad that the Vychegda winding through the forests is called a meadow or grass river. They could have explained it better, for example, “comes from the name of the Irish good god Dagda,” there was simply a phonetic distortion... Or they would have remembered that Genghis Khan’s second son was called Chegodai. Let's make up some kind of legend...

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And the eternal sky admires the beautiful and wayward Vychegda. God brought me to see such beauty!

Used other people's photos for non-commercial purposes from sites:

The Vychegda River is part of the White Sea basin, and is considered the most large influx Northern Dvina.

Source and tributaries of the Vychegda River

Vychegda begins on the Timan Ridge, which is about 220 meters above sea level, here two streams Lun-Vozh and Voy-Vozh, which flow from the Dzyur-Nyur swamp, merge.

The river has tributaries, there are many of them, 1173. Let’s name the largest and most important of them:

• left - Sysoki, Viled, Lokchim, Nem, South Mylva, North Keltma;
• right - Vol, Vym, Vishera, Yarenga, Elva.

Characteristics of the Vychegda River

The area of ​​the basin is 121 thousand square kilometers. Its length is 1130 kilometers. The river falls from a height of 179 meters and flows into the Northern Dvina near Kotlas. The depth of the river varies, from 0.5 meters to 6 meters.

The river's topography is quite varied and changes depending on the current. At the very top there are faint hills interspersed with cliffs and voids. Appear in the middle part sandy shores, which are replaced by clay. Bottom part- sandy, through which clay or black peat appears. Pebbles and stones may already appear near the water.

Vychegda river photo

The width varies from the upper reaches, where it is different places from 15 to 20 meters, and the valleys - almost 200 meters. In the middle reaches - 80, and in the lower reaches - 30-40 kilometers, and the floodplain - reaches 11 kilometers.

Regime of the Vychegda River

The Vychegda River is fed by melting snow, precipitation in the form of rain, and groundwater. This type of nutrition is called mixed. The river becomes frozen in early November and melts at the very beginning of May. In spring, the water level often rises from 4 to 7 meters. The speed of water flow varies from the upper reaches to the lower part - from 6 to 1.8 meters per second. The riverbed is winding, the valley is wide, and oxbow lakes are often encountered.

Vychegda river. winter has come photo

Flora and fauna of the river

Coniferous forests grow along the banks, where you can find pine and spruce, and between them - birch, bird cherry, cedar, and larch. The number of fish and animals living on the shores is decreasing due to industrial emissions. The river contains Atlantic salmon, perch, bream, roach, and dace.

Cities

The largest settlements are:

• Kotlas;
• Syktyvkar;
• Koryazhma;
• Solvychegodsk

Vychegda river photo

Tourism on the river

Fishing, recreation on the islands and shores, and rafting along the Vychegda river are common.

• The Vychegda is included in the list of waterways of the Russian Federation because most of Its routes during the shipping period are used for rafting wood, sailing ships and barges. During low water, shipping continues.
• The Komi tribes called the river yellow water or meadow water, which is associated with wood alloys.

Vychegda(Ezhva kv) is a river in the north of the European part of Russia in the Komi Republic and the Arkhangelsk region, the second largest tributary of the Northern Dvina after the Sukhona.

Geography

Length - 1130 km, basin area - 121 thousand km².

The relief of the basin was formed as a result of repeated glaciations and especially the last transgression North Sea. The surface is flat with average height 120-150 m. River valleys wide, alluvial valleys are narrow, without terraces. The basin is composed of Permian deposits (clays, marls), Carboniferous limestone, Jurassic and Cretaceous rocks, overlain by Quaternary deposits.

Pool area covered taiga forests(spruce, pine, birch, etc.), swamps are common (swampiness up to 18.6%). The channel is winding, the river slope is insignificant (0.000162).

It originates on the southern edge of the Timan Ridge in the Dzyur-Nyur swamp from the confluence of two streams - Lun-Bozh and Voy-Vozh.

It is divided into Upper (from the source to the confluence of Nem, 346 km), Middle (from Ust-Nema to the confluence of Sysola, 489 km) and Lower Vychegda (from the Vym River to the mouth, 296 km). It flows into the Northern Dvina near the city of Kotlas. Flows through the territories of the Komi Republic and the Arkhangelsk region

The upper sections of the Upper Vychegda basin are a dissected hilly plateau 200-250 m high. The valley is up to 150-200 m wide, incised by 20-40 m. The channel is winding, there are many rapids, shallows, the current is fast (0.6-0.7 m /sec). The width of the river is from 15-20 m to 80-100 m, the average depth is 3 m (the highest is up to 10 m).

The Middle Vychegda basin occupies a vast plain between the Timan Ridge and the Northern Uvaly hills. In the upper section it flows through the Kerchem Valley, located between the Nemskaya Upland and the Zhezhimparma Upland. Below - along a wide flat lowland, characterized by large swamps. On the right side of the basin there are lakes (Donty, Sindorskoye). Karst is developed (the Nem, Northern Keltma, and Vym rivers). The valley is up to 10 km wide. The floodplain is wide, usually two-sided, overgrown with meadows, swampy, with many channels (floods) and oxbow lakes. The channel is from 100 to 680 m wide, sandy-clayey with pebbles, unstable with riffles (over 120), shallows and islands. The depth on the rifts is up to 0.5 m, on the reaches 1.5-5 m. Current speed is 0.3-0.6 m/sec (summer low water) to 1.5-1.8 m/sec (high water). The Vychegda is a river with incomplete meandering.

The landscape and hydrological conditions of the Lower Vychegda are similar to the conditions of the Middle Vychegda.

Tributaries

It receives 1137 tributaries. Among them the largest are: Vol, Vishera, Vym, Elva, Yarenga - on the right; South Mylva, Nem, North Keltma, Lokchim, Sysola, Viled are on the left. Some of the tributaries are of great fishery importance (spawning rivers for salmon): Northern Keltma, Vym, etc.

Splavnaya. In the spring it is navigable to the Voldino pier (959 km), in the summer-autumn period - to Ust-Kulom (693 km).

In terms of riverbed instability and sand mobility, Vychegda ranks first in Russia, which complicates navigation.

Main piers: Solvychegodsk, Yarensk, Mezhog, Aikino, Syktyvkar, Ust-Kulom.

Settlements

• Syktyvkar city, suburban villages Sedkyrkeshch, Krasnozatonsky
• urban-type settlements Vychegodsky and Zheshart
• Koryazhma city
• Kotlas city
• Solvychegodsk city
• Ezhva district of Syktyvkar
• villages of Anikeevka, Anufrievka, etc.

Hydrology

The food is snow (43-48%), the share of underground is large (up to 35-40%), which is explained by the distribution of karst rocks (limestone, dolomite). Water content - from 162 (Ust-Nem) to 601 m³/sec (Syktyvkar). During spring floods, the river rises several meters (at Syktyvkar - from 2 to 6) above the average low-water level, flooding the floodplain for many kilometers in width. Average annual water flow - near the mouth - 1160 m³/sec.

Average monthly water flow in the river (m³/s) in the area of ​​the village of Fedyakovo (65 km from the mouth) from 1962 to 1999

• The ancient name of the river in the Komi language is Ezhva, which means “meadow water” Turkin A.- Syktyvkar: Komi book publishing house, 1986-144 pp. (according to another version - “yellow water” Khrustalev A.// “Evening Kotlas”, 04/14/2008).
• The name “Vychegda” was borne by the branded Russian Railways train No. 24 on the Moscow-Syktyvkar route. Afterwards it was renamed “Syktyvkar”.

The Vychegda is the second largest river in the Komi Republic and the largest tributary of the Northern Dvina, which flows into it from the right side near the city of Kotlas at 615 km from the mouth. The Vychegda River originates on the southern edge of the Timan Ridge, on the vast Kaltsek-Keros watershed plateau and flows with the Voy-Vozh and Lun-Vozh rivers from the Dzyur-Nor swamp, located at an altitude of about 225 m above sea level.
On tourist route It is proposed to visit the village of Pomozdino, where the museum named after V. Chistalev is located and local history museum, a monument at the site of the heroine’s execution by the White Guards civil war Domna Kalikova. It is proposed to get acquainted with one of the largest and greenest villages in the upper reaches of the Vychegda.
In the neighboring village of Badyelsk it is offered to wash and drink the purest water of three natural springs, at the source of which stands a century-old cedar.
Here you can touch the history of the Great Patriotic War, visiting the monument to the participants and those killed at the front.
In the village of Yag-Kodzh, you can arrange a meeting with the amazing local historian Lenian Alekseevich Ignatov, who discovered several sites of ancient people in the vicinity of the village, collected a rich collection of labor and hunting tools, and wrote 10 handwritten books on history, archeology, and geology.
The village of Puzla is located on a hill. On the outskirts of the village is the grave of the civil war heroine Daria Kochanova and the communist Georgy Timushev, who were shot by the White Guards. 1.5 km from the village, upstream of the river. In Vychegda, there is an amazing “fountain”, the height of the water jet is up to 4 m. In winter, the sound of falling water can be heard all the way to the village, and the sight is indescribable. In the vicinity of the village you can see 5 fountains. In one of them, the water smells of hydrogen sulfide. In some fountains, according to residents, the water has healing properties. On the banks of the Vychegda River there are bauxite outcrops, which occur in thick layers. On the other bank, southwest of the village, 9 km, there are deposits of kaolin and sulfur.
In the Puzla valley, a relict floristic complex is protected on limestone outcrops: Ruprecht's Kozlets, peony (maryin root), Adonis Siberian, Spotty and real Shoes, and others rare species plants.
18 km northeast of the village of Puzly is the non-residential village of Vezha-yu. Those who were repressed lived here nationality Germans of the Volga region. Economic and hardworking Germans settled down in the middle of the taiga and later created a strong economy. But at present you can see only ruins here. On the Vezha-yu River there are remains of a water mill built without a single nail.
Next on the tourists’ route is the non-residential village of Chernaya, where prisoners were kept. According to the stories of the residents of the village of Puzla, there were many barracks here, and there was a high fence with barbed wire all around.
Tourists are invited to get acquainted with the history of the non-residential village of Ezhvador, where you can see the remains of the bridge along which the Catherine Highway went to Troitsko-Pechorsk. It was used to drive exiles imprisoned under the tsarist regime to Siberia, and during the years of repression, special settlers who were repressed were driven deep into the taiga. During the Civil War, the White Guards retreated along it. At 18 km from the village of Ezhvador, on the bank of the river there is a hunting hut with a bathhouse and a barn on pillars. Here you can organize a tent camp and grayling fishing.
2 km from the hunting hut along the road there is a large wooden cross erected by the monks of the Ulyanovsk monastery. From it there is an overgrown road leading to the non-residential village of Morskoy. In it you can see the ruins of barracks, surrounded by ditches, the remains of houses, the walls of which are plastered on both sides. This is not typical for the houses of the Komi population. You can see the remains of dugouts and brick walls. Rails dated “1940” were found. Old-timers in the village of Puzla do not know exactly what population was in the village of Morskoye. A.S. Ignatov heard from his father that: “they brought some exhausted people, women at that, gave them shovels in their hands, and ordered them to dig dugouts for housing. And this is in the pre-winter period. And then many people were led past the village.”
12 km from the village of Morskoy you can see an exciting picture: the two rivers Voy-Vozh and Lun-Vozh carry their waters towards them, so that, having united, the Vychegda River floats further to the Northern Dvina, to White Sea. At the junction of two rivers or otherwise - at the beginning of the river. Vychegda monks erected a cross. Being at the cradle of Vychegda, some inexplicable feeling takes over. You see how it begins main river Ust-Kulomsky district, one of the largest in the Komi Republic.

The name of the river comes from the words of the Mansi language: “vich” - damp meadow and “egda” - river, i.e. a river flowing through swampy meadows. The Komi people called Vychegda Ezhva, which means “yellow water.”

The river has been used since ancient times as waterway To Northern Urals and further to Siberia. Russian settlements on the banks of the river appeared in the 13th century. Syktyvkar, Yarensk and Solvychegodsk were first mentioned in written documents from the 14th–16th centuries. In 1859, a road was built from Troitsko-Pechorsk (on the Pechora River) to Pomozdino (on the Vychegda River) to deliver timber to Arkhangelsk and further by sea to Europe. In 1860, the first batch of Pechora larch was delivered to France. At the end of the 18th–19th centuries. The North Catherine Canal was built, connecting the basins of the Vychegda and Kama rivers.

The river originates on the slopes of the Timan Ridge in the Dzyur-Nor swamp. The length of the river is 1130 km, the area of ​​the basin, 90% occupied by forests and 5% by swamps, is 121 thousand km 2 - the largest tributary of the Northern Dvina in terms of basin area and length. The river is formed at the confluence of the Lun-Bozh and Voy-Bozh streams. The main tributaries of the Vychegda: Vishera, Vym and Yarenga (right), Nem, Northern Keltma, Lokchim, Sysola and Viled (left). IN upper reaches(before the confluence of the Nem River) the river valley is narrow, swampy, the channel is winding, 15–30 m wide, with numerous rifts.

Downstream (before the confluence of the Sysola River) the valley expands to 10 km and the channel freely meanders. There are numerous oxbow lakes on the floodplain.

In the middle reaches, below the confluence of the river. The Vym valley narrows again, and the channel 500–1000 m wide becomes relatively straight, with numerous riffle sections. The banks in this area are intensively eroded (up to 5–10 m/year). Active channel deformations on the river. Vychegda regularly becomes a source of danger for the cities of Solvychegodsk, Yarensk, Koryazhma and Syktyvkar. Erosion of the banks of bends constantly poses a threat to engineering structures, communications and residential buildings. So, at the beginning of the 20th century. The Annunciation Cathedral in Solvychegodsk was under threat of destruction, which was saved, among other things, thanks to the straightening of the bend. Another example is the city of Yarensk, which, as a result of a shift in the channel, found itself on the bank of a dying channel, far from the main channel. The river “left” the city, which undoubtedly affected its future fate.

The main source of nutrition for Vychegda is meltwater. The spring flood begins in the second half of April and lasts on average 50–60 days. During this period, more than half of annual flow river water. After the flood, summer-autumn low water begins, regularly interrupted by rain floods. When floods occur, water flow increases five times, and the water rise reaches 1 m or more. The average long-term water flow of the Vychegda at the mouth is 1100 m 3 /s (flow volume 34.717 km 3 /year), the maximum water flow is more than 10,000 m 3 /s. Ice appears on the river at the end of October and by the first days of November the river freezes. Near major cities provided by the Syktyvkar and Kotlas (in the city of Koryazhma) pulp and paper mills. The thickness of the ice on the river by the beginning of the spring break-up reaches 50–60 cm, and in severe winters - up to 1 m. At the end of April, the Vychegda breaks up from ice and the spring ice drift begins, which passes without significant congestion, and already in early May the river is free of ice cleared.

Currently, the river has lost its significance as a waterway, although in the 20th century. the fleet movement was carried out not only on the river itself. Vychegda, but also on its main tributaries. Ensuring guaranteed dimensions of the shipping lane required enormous efforts: dredging, construction of jet dams, and dams. In some cases, giving way to the river, it was necessary to move the fairway. However, due to the cessation of dredging work, shipping is currently only carried out in downstream

; from the village Ust-Kulom (693 km from the mouth) to the village. Voldino (935 km) - during the short high-water (spring) period.

Water river The Vychegda and its tributaries are the main sources of water supply in the Komi Republic. Along the banks of the river are the cities of Syktyvkar, Solvychegodsk, Koryazhma and Kotlas.