Two small rivers in the Ob basin. Where does the Ob River originate? And where does the Ob River flow? Fauna of the reservoir
Where does the Ob River originate and where does it flow?
The Ob River originates in Altai and is formed by the confluence of the Biya and Katun rivers.
The Ob River flows into the Kara Sea in the north, forming a bay (about 800 km long) called the Gulf of Ob.
According to the nature of the river network, feeding conditions and formation water regime The Ob is divided into 3 sections: upper (to the mouth of the Tom), middle (to the mouth of the Irtysh) and lower (to the Gulf of Ob).
Ob - river in Western Siberia, the longest river in Russia and the second longest in Asia. The length of the Ob from its confluence is 3650 km (from the source of the Irtysh 5410 km).
The upper section of the basin is located in the mountains, where the sources of the Biya and Katun rivers and many tributaries originate: Peschanaya, Anuy, Charysh, Alei (left), Chumysh, Inya (right). IN upper reaches The Ob has a well-developed valley with developed floodplain terraces.
To the mouth of the Charysh it flows on low banks, the riverbed is replete with channels, islands, and rifts. Further, towards Barnaul, the valley and floodplain expand. From Barnaul to the town of Kamenya-on-Obi the valley is wide (5 - 10 km) and asymmetrical with a steep left slope; The wide floodplain is cut by oxbow lakes, channels and lakes. Near the town of Kamenya-on-Obi, the valley and floodplain narrow (to 3 - 5 km and 1.5 - 2 km, respectively), and there are areas with rocky ledges in the riverbed.
In the southern part of Novosibirsk, the river is blocked by a dam, which formed the Novosibirsk reservoir ("Ob Sea").
Below Novosibirsk the valley widens significantly and reaches 20 km towards the mouth of the Tom. The depths of the Ob (at low water) in the upper reaches range from 2 to 6 m, in places on the rifts they drop to 0.6 m.
Below the mouth of the Tom (beginning middle Ob), and especially the Chulym - the Ob River becomes a large full-flowing river and flows within the taiga zone before its confluence with the Irtysh. The Ob valley has a width of up to 30 - 50 km or more; The vast floodplain (20 - 30 km) is covered with a dense network of channels.
Depths (at low water) range from 4 to 8 m. Major tributaries: Tom, Chulym, Ket, Tym, Vakh, Tromyegan, Lyamin, Nazim (right), Shegarka, Chaya, Parabel, Vasyugan, B. Yugan, B. Salym, Irtysh (left).
After the confluence of the Irtysh, the Ob turns to the North. The valley is wide (more than 50 km in places), asymmetrical, with a gentle, mostly low, left bank and a steep, steep right bank; narrows to 4 - 8 km in the area of Peregrebnoye and Salekhard.
The extensive, mostly left-bank floodplain is cut up by branches, channels, lakes, and is flooded to a width of 40 - 50 km during high water. From the mouth of the Irtysh to Peregrebnoye the Ob flows in one deep (at least 4 - 4.5 m) channel, below it is divided into the Bolshaya and Malaya Ob with depths (at low water) of up to 2.5 - 3 m. After their confluence, the Ob channel has depths more than 10 m. The main tributaries of the lower reaches: Kazym, Poluy (right), Northern Sosva, Shchuchya (left).
Before flowing into Ob Bay the river forms a delta with an area of more than 4 thousand km2. The main branches are Khamanelskaya (left) and the more powerful Nadymskaya (right), immediately behind their mouths there are shallow bars - Yamsalsky and Nadymsky. The average slope of the Ob from Biysk to the Yamsal bar is 0.054 m/km.
The food is predominantly snowy. During the spring-summer flood period, the river carries the bulk of its annual flow. In the upper reaches, the flood starts from the beginning of April, on average - from the 2nd half of April, and in the lower reaches - from the end of April - beginning of May. The rise in levels begins even during freeze-up; when the river opens up as a result of congestion, intense short-term rises in levels occur.
In the middle and lower reaches, the decline of the flood with overlapping rain floods continues until freeze-up. The range of level fluctuations in the upper reaches is on average 5 m, downstream it increases to Aleksandrovsky - 9 m, before the confluence with the Irtysh it decreases to 7 m, below the confluence of the Irtysh it reaches 10 m, and towards the mouth it decreases to 5 m.
Average flow rates increase from 1470 m3/sec near Barnaul to 12300 m3/sec near Salekhard, maximum flow rates respectively from 9690 m3/sec to 42800 m3/sec. Freeze-up on the Ob lasts 150 days in the upper reaches and 220 days in the lower reaches of the river.
The water temperature in July is up to 28 °C in the Barnaul - Belogorye section and up to 23 °C in the lower reaches.
Water mineralization is less than 200 mg/l and only in the area between Novosibirsk and the mouth of the Tom is more than 200 mg/l. The Ob waters are characterized by a high content of organic substances and a low content of oxygen, which leads to death in winter.
The average turbidity decreases downstream from 160 to 40 g/m. The annual runoff of suspended sediment is 16 million tons, and the entire solid runoff is about 50 million tons.
The Ob basin contains a variety of Natural resources. In terms of forecast reserves of oil, gas and coal, Western Siberia occupies a prominent place in the CIS; 1/2 of the all-Union peat reserves are concentrated here. The basin is also rich in water, forest and other types of resources. About 50 species and subspecies of fish live in the waters of the Ob and Ob Bay, 1/2 of which are commercial.
The most valuable species: sturgeon, sterlet, nelma, muksun, whitefish, whitefish, peled. Fishing objects are mainly small fish - pike, ide, burbot, dace, roach, crucian carp, perch.
The total potential hydropower resources of the Ob basin are estimated at up to 250 billion kWh. There are 3 hydroelectric power stations in operation - Novosibirsk on the Ob, Bukhtarma and Ust-Kamenogorsk on the Irtysh. The Ob River is the main transport route of Western Siberia. It is navigable along its entire length from source to mouth.
The navigation period ranges from 190 days in the upper reaches to 150 days in the lower reaches. The transport role of the Ob and its tributaries has grown since the early 60s. in connection with the development of gas and oil fields. Main ports and marinas of the basin: Novosibirsk, Tomsk, Surgut, Labytnangi, Pavlodar, Omsk, Tobolsk, Tyumen
Flow
In fact, the Ob is a continuation of the Katun River, but it is called the Ob only after the merger of the Katun with the Biya, that is, after the city of Biysk.
At the beginning, the Ob noticeably meanders, and its flow periodically changes in different directions - either to the north or to the west.
Flows in the Altai Territory through Barnaul, then for some time divides the Altai Territory and Novosibirsk region.
It flows through the Novosibirsk region, in particular through Novosibirsk. To the north, in the Tomsk region it merges with Tom, and then with Chulym, after which it turns slightly to the west and near the city of Kolpashevo merges with the Ket River.
In the Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug, the Ob flows through Nizhnevartovsk, Surgut, Nefteyugansk, and some other cities.
After Khanty-Mansiysk, the Ob turns north, and a delta begins from this section; then, in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug, the Ob flows through Salekhard and Labytnangi. After this point it widens noticeably and flows into the Gulf of Ob Kara Sea.
Pool
The area of the Ob basin is 2990 thousand km². According to this indicator, the river ranks first in Russia. The Ob is also the third most water-bearing river in Russia (after the Yenisei and Lena).
In the southern part of the Ob there is the Novosibirsk reservoir, formed by the dam of the Novosibirsk hydroelectric power station. The dam was constructed from 1950 to 1961; During the creation of the reservoir, many villages and the main part of the city of Berdsk were flooded. The Sea of Ob (as the locals call it) serves as a vacation spot for many Novosibirsk residents; numerous recreation centers and sanatoriums are located on its shores. Tourists also come here from neighboring regions.
IN late XIX century, the Ob-Yenisei Canal was built, connecting the Ob with the Yenisei. It is currently unused and abandoned.
Tributaries
The main tributaries of the Ob: Charysh, Agan, Vakh, Aley, Chumysh, Tom, Chulym, Ket, Berd, Inya, Irtysh, Northern Sosva, Tromyegan. The following also flow into the Ob: Bolshoi Yugan (flows into the Yuganskaya channel), Shchuchya, Konda.
Water mode
The river is fed predominantly by snow. During the spring-summer flood period, the river carries the bulk of its annual flow.
In the upper reaches, the flood starts from the beginning of April, on average - from the second half of April, and in the lower reaches - from the end of April - beginning of May.
The rise in levels begins even during freeze-up; when the river opens up as a result of congestion, intense short-term rises in levels occur. Because of this, some tributaries may experience a reversal of flow direction.
In the upper reaches, the flood ends in July, the summer low water is unstable, and in September - October there is a rain flood.
In the middle and lower reaches, the decline of the flood with overlapping rain floods continues until freeze-up.
Animal world
About 50 species and subspecies of fish live in the waters of the Ob and Ob Bay, half of which are of industrial value. The most valuable species: sturgeon, sterlet, nelma, muksun, broad whitefish, tugun, whitefish, peled. Fishing objects are mainly small ones - pike perch, pike, ide, burbot, bream, dace, roach, crucian carp, perch.
Origin of the word "Ob"
The Nenets living in the lower reaches of the river called it “Sala-yam”, which means “Cape River”. The Khanty and Mansi gave it the name “As” - “ big river“, the Selkups called the river “Kvay”, “Eme”, “Kuay”. These names meant “large river”.
The Russians first saw the river in its lower reaches, when hunters and merchants, together with Zyryan guides, went beyond the Ural Mountains. And before Ermak’s conquest of Siberia, the region around the Ob was called Obdorsky.
There is a version that the name of the river comes from the Komi language, which meant “snow”, “snowdrift”, “place near the snow”.
There is also an assumption that the name is related to the Iranian word “ob” - “water”. And such a name deep river could well have been given by the peoples of the Iranian-speaking group who lived in the south of Western Siberia during the period from the Early Bronze Age to the Middle Ages.
There is also a version that the word “Ob” comes from the Russian “both”, that is, “both rivers” - “Ob”, meaning two rivers - Katun and Biya, which merged into the Ob. See also the legend about the Katun and Biya rivers.
Cities on the Ob:
- Barnaul
- Novoaltaysk
- Stone-on-Obi
- Novosibirsk
- Kolpashevo
- Nizhnevartovsk
- Surgut
- Nefteyugansk
- Megion
- Salekhard
- Labytnangi
- Langepas (on the Kayukovskaya channel)
Main ports and marinas of the Ob basin: Barnaul river port, Novosibirsk, Tomsk, Nizhnevartovsk, Surgut, Labytnangi, Pavlodar, Omsk, Tobolsk, Tyumen, Khanty-Mansiysk.
Bridges in the direction from the mouth to the source:
- Surgutsky Bridge (Surgut, Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug);
- railway bridge Surgut;
- Shegarsky Bridge (near the village of Melnikovo, Tomsk region);
- Northern Bypass Bridge in Novosibirsk (2014);
- Dimitrovsky Bridge in Novosibirsk;
- Trans-Siberian railway bridge (Novosibirsk);
- Communal Bridge (Novosibirsk) (Oktyabrsky);
- Metrobridge in Novosibirsk;
- Komsomolsky Bridge (railway) in Novosibirsk;
- Bridge over the gateway of the Novosibirsk hydroelectric power station;
- railway bridge in Kamen-na-Obi, Altai Territory;
- communal bridge (road, railway) in Barnaul;
- new bridge in Barnaul.
Additional material:
The Ob River flows through three states - Russia, China and Kazakhstan. It is the largest of all Russian rivers, which flows through the region of Western Siberia, and ranks 2nd in length on the Eurasian continent.
On the banks of the Ob live many autochthonous peoples who gave the river proper names. And each meaning was tied to the greatness of the river, its length, the surface of the water. For example, the Khanty and Mansi people called her As, the Selkups called her Kuay, and the Nenets called her Salya-yam.
There is also a version that the word Ob comes from the Russian “both”, i.e. both rivers are Ob, meaning the two rivers Katun and Biya, which merge into the Ob.
Source
The Ob originates in Altai mountains ah, where the two rivers Biya and Katun connect. The water of the first of them has a muddy green tint, while the second is white, approaching gray or dirty gray. Therefore, at one time the water has a striped stream, which can be seen in warm time of the year.
Characteristics of the Ob River
The Ob River belongs to the Kara Sea basin. The length of the river is 3,650 kilometers, the area is about 3 million square kilometers. The pool passes through different climatic regions- from tundra to semi-deserts. Depth varies from 60 centimeters to 20 meters. The width of the basin in valleys and other places can reach 50 kilometers. The average width from one bank to the other is about 7 kilometers.
river Ob photo
The Ob valley is asymmetrical, so the right bank has strong cliffs and steep slopes. The left one, on the contrary, is flat. Near the mouth of the Irtysh River, the river divides into two branches - the Big and the Small. Between them there is an island that has the following parameters: 450 kilometers long, and up to 40 kilometers long. The union of both rivers occurs near South Salekhard, creating a huge delta. In this place, the Ob forms two more branches, Khamanelsky and Nadymsky. The water temperature in summer warms up to 23-28 degrees.
River mode
The Ob is divided into 3 sections with different water flow regimes:
- Upper - to the mouth of the Tom;
- Middle - to the mouth of the Irtysh;
- The lower one is to the mouth of the Ob Bay.
The water flow speed is about 6 km/h in spring and summer, although during low water it drops by half. So-called pressure flows are formed at bends and narrow places, protracted flows are formed on branches, and stall flows are formed in other places.
Ob River in winter photo
The Ob River is fed by snow. Because of this, the water level begins to rise when there is still ice on the river. When it cracks, then water logs can occur. Therefore, the tributaries in some places turn in the opposite direction.
Flora and fauna
The Ob is rich in ichthyofauna, which attracts fishermen from many localities. Valuable fish species are sturgeon, vendace, peled, and whitefish. In general, the river is home to more than 50 species of fish, which are caught for industrial purposes. For example, perch, crucian carp, pike, burbot, roach, etc. The narrow-toed crayfish also lives in the river. Frogs and toads, newts and salamanders live near the river. The most common mammals are beavers and otters.
Birds include gulls, loons, geese, ducks, gray heron, bittern, swans, etc.
Cities
There are many settlements, ports, and marinas on the river. Bridges connect one part of a city to another. The largest cities are Salekhard, Surgut, Biysk, Barnaul, Novosibirsk, Langepas, Pavlodar, Omsk, Tyumen.
city of Surgut. Bridge over the Ob River photo
Tributaries
The main tributary of the Ob is the Irtysh, which begins at the Mongolian-Chinese border. From here the length is almost 4.3 thousand meters. Other tributaries include:
- on the left side - Alei, Chaya, Synya, Barnaulka, Peschanaya, Parabel;
- on the right - Inya, Tom, Vatinsky Egan, Pim.
Tourism on the river
Developed on the Ob different kinds tourism, which are aimed at entertainment and recreation. In many places along the river, recreation centers have been built, where vacationers come in the spring and summer. The Ob is great for swimming, exploring natural attractions, river tourism and fishing. This type of recreation is extremely popular among fishermen.
- The Ob River feeds numerous arid regions of China and Kazakhstan.
- At the source of the river there was a lake, which was called Chinese. More accurate drawings appeared at the end of the 17th century, where the sources of the Ob were indicated for the first time.
The Ob River is one of largest rivers not only Russia, but the whole world. It flows from south to north across Western Siberia almost parallel to the greatest Russian river, the Yenisei. A mighty stream flows in the north into the Kara Sea. At the confluence there is a huge bay. It is called the Gulf of Ob, and its length exceeds 800 km. This is a kind of river mouth, called an estuary in scientific circles. It is characterized by the absence of river sediments. Their creation is prevented sea currents. In Russia, in addition to the Ob Bay, the Yenisei Bay can also be called an estuary.
The length of the Ob River is 3650 km. It is longer than the Yenisei, if we take its beginning from the city of Kyzyl (3487 km), where the Small and Big Yenisei merge into a single stream. The river system of the Ob River ranks 7th in length in the world. Talking about river system, we mean the length of the longest tributary and the waterway of the river after this tributary flows into it.
So, it flows into the Ob. It is considered the longest tributary in the world and has a length of 4248 km. In second place is the Missouri River with a length of 3,767 km. The Irtysh and the Ob River together form a length equal to 5410 km. This is the legitimate 7th place after the Yellow River with its length of 5464 km. But the 5th place is occupied by the water system of the Yenisei River (5539 km), which consists of the rivers Ider, Selenga, the waterway of Lake Baikal, the Angara and, in fact, the Yenisei itself, after the river flowing from Baikal flows into it.
Your beginning great river takes from the Katun River. The length of the Katun is 688 km. Its source is located on the Katunsky ridge, where Mount Belukha rises majestically with its height above sea level equal to 4506 meters. On the southern slope of the mountain lies a huge ice cap, the Gebler Glacier. It is he who gives life water flow, ending its journey in the waters of the Arctic Ocean.
confluence of the Biya and Katun rivers, source of the Ob
The Katun River crosses the Altai Mountains and is considered its main waterway. In the area of the urban settlement Sorokino it merges with the Biya River. The two reunited rivers form a single mighty stream called the Ob River.
The entire river is conventionally divided into three long sections. The first section is called the Upper Ob. It stretches to the confluence of the Tom River. This is the right tributary mighty river. Before it, the Ob River flows through cities such as Barnaul, Kamen-on-Obi and Novosibirsk.
In the upper reaches, the mighty river flows its waters between the low banks. The channel is characterized by channels, numerous islands, and riffles. Closer to Barnaul, the channel widens, and the left bank becomes steep. (city of Barnaul) River Ob
This relief extends to the city of Kamen-on-Obi. In front of him the riverbed narrows. Rocky areas protruding from the water appear. The depth in the upper reaches is on average 2-6 meters. On rifts it decreases significantly. In some places it reaches 0.5-0.6 meters.
Further on, the Ob River meets the Novosibirsk Hydroelectric Power Station on its way. This dam blocked the river back in the 50s. The length of the Novosibirsk reservoir is 200 km, the maximum width reaches 22 km. The depth reaches 25 meters. The reservoir originates north of the city of Kamen-on-Obi. Locals call this huge body of water Ob Sea. Moreover, the stress can be placed on both the first and last vowel.
After the confluence of the Tom River, the middle section of the mighty Siberian stream begins. Its channel is becoming wider and wider. After the confluence of the right tributary Chulym, the Ob River gains strength and becomes truly full-flowing. It's already taiga zone. The floodplain in these places reaches 20-25 km. It is characterized by numerous channels, and the depth of the river ranges from 4 to 8 meters.
embankment in Nizhnevartovsk Ob River
After reuniting with Tom, the Ob steadily turns west. It gives life to such cities as Kolpashevo, Nizhnevartovsk, Surgut, Nefteyugansk.
Finally, the mighty stream meets its own and smoothly turns north. This is the so-called Lower Ob. It is characterized by a low left bank and a steep right bank. The left bank part is cut by channels and rich in lakes.
Until the village of Peregrebnoye, the Ob River flows in one channel. Then it bifurcates. Two streams are formed - the Big and Small Ob. The main flow of water flows along the Bolshaya Ob. The river becomes united again 20 km south of Salekhard. This is noteworthy because the depth of the channel almost doubles. Its depth becomes 10-15 meters. The river floods to its full mighty width after Salekhard. It forms a huge delta, the area of which corresponds to 4.5 thousand square meters. km.
Sleeves are formed. The main one is called Nadymsky. This is the right sleeve. The left one is called Khamanelsky. Gradually, the branches merge into a single wide stream and pass into the Ob Bay, which is an integral part of the Kara Sea.
River Ob
The total area of the river basin is 2990 square meters. km. Main your way great Siberian river flows through West Siberian Plain. Floods occur on spring months April May. The water level begins to rise when there is freezing. This is largely due to ice jams. The water level can rise to 9 meters, flooding the area around for tens of kilometers.
The river basin is rich in mineral resources. The richest reserves of gas, oil and coal are concentrated here. Considering the marshy area, peat reserves account for 70% of the country's total reserves. The Ob River is rich in fish. Of these, at least 50 species are commercial. In the mighty river waters Sturgeon, nelma, sterlet, whitefish, and muksun are common. There are pike, burbot, roach, perch, dace, and crucian carp. All this wealth is the property of the state.
Hydropower resources are also of great importance. These are three hydroelectric power stations: Novosibirsk, Ust-Kamenogorsk and Bukhtarma. The last two were built on the Irtysh. Shipping is also important. The navigation period lasts 6 months. In the lower reaches of the mighty river it is shorter by one month. In a word, the Ob River is an important economic component of the state. It connects the mineral-rich north with other parts of the country. Without this river, transporting the raw materials needed for the economy would be a huge problem.
Novosibirsk city Ob River
GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE RIVER OB
Ob is a river in Western Siberia. It is formed in Altai at the confluence of the Biya and Katun. The length of the Ob is 3650 km, its area drainage basin- 2,990,000 km². At the mouth it forms the Ob Bay and flows into the Kara Sea.
The Nenets living in the lower reaches of the river called it Salya-yam, which means “Cape River”. The Khanty and Mansi gave it the name As - “big river”, the Selkups called the river Kvai, Eme, Kuai. These names meant “large river”. The Russians first saw the river in its lower reaches, when hunters and merchants, together with Zyryan guides, went beyond the Ural Mountains. And before Ermak’s conquest of Siberia, the region around the Ob was called Obdorsky.
Back in 1187, long before Ermak, the lower Ob was part of the “subject volosts” of Veliky Novgorod, and after its fall it passed to the Moscow princes, who from 1502 began adding the words “Obdorsky and Ugra” to their titles.
There is a version that the name of the river comes from the Komi language, which meant “snow”, “snowdrift”, “place near the snow”.
There is also an assumption that the name of the river is of Iranian origin, from *ap “water” (Taj. Ob). This name for the deep river could well have been given by the steppe Iranian-speaking peoples who lived in the south of Western Siberia during the period from the Early Bronze Age to the Middle Ages.
In 1844, shipping began along the Ob River; The first steamship was operated by commercial adviser N.F. Myasnikov. In 1895, there were already 120 steamships operating on the Ob and its tributaries; most of them belonged to private owners. Since 1923, the transportation of passengers and cargo along the Ob was carried out by the West Siberian River Shipping Company.
Ob River in Altai Territory
Current of the Ob River
According to the nature of the river network, feeding conditions and the formation of the water regime, the Ob is divided into 3 sections: upper (to the mouth of the Tom), middle () and lower (to the Ob Bay).
In fact, the Ob is a continuation of the Katun River, but it is called the Ob only after the merger of the Katun with the Biya, that is, after the city of Biysk.
River Ob
At the beginning, the Ob noticeably meanders, and its flow periodically changes in different directions - either to the north or to the west. It flows in the Altai Territory through Barnaul, then for some time it separates the Altai Territory and the Novosibirsk Region. It flows through the Novosibirsk region, in particular through Novosibirsk. To the north, in the Tomsk region it merges with Tom, and then with Chulym, after which it turns slightly to the west and near the city of Kolpashevo it merges with the Ket River and goes through the city of Strezhevoy. In the Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug, the Ob flows through Nizhnevartovsk, Surgut, Nefteyugansk, and some other cities. After Khanty-Mansiysk, the Ob turns north, and a delta begins from this section; then, in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug, the Ob flows through Salekhard and Labytnangi. After this point, it noticeably expands and flows into the Ob Bay of the Kara Sea.
The river is fed predominantly by snow. During the spring-summer flood period, the river brings the bulk of the annual flow. In the upper reaches, the flood starts from the beginning of April, on average - from the second half of April, and in the lower reaches - from the end of April - beginning of May. The rise in levels begins even during freeze-up; when the river opens up as a result of congestion, intense short-term rises in levels occur. Because of this, some tributaries may experience a reversal of flow direction. In the upper reaches, the flood ends in July, the summer low water is unstable, and in September - October there is a rain flood. In the middle and lower reaches, the decline of the flood with overlapping rain floods continues until freeze-up. On average, the river is under ice for 180 to 220 days a year, depending on how severe the winter is.
Tributaries
The main tributary of the river is the Irtysh. The length from its source on the border of Mongolia and China to its confluence with the Ob on the left is 4,248 km, which exceeds the length of the Ob itself.
Other significant tributaries:
left - Peschanaya, Anui, Charysh, Alei, Barnaulka, Kasmala, Shegarka, Chaya, Parabel, Vasyugan, Bolshoy Yugan, Northern Sosva, Shchuchya, Synya;
right - Chumysh, Berd, Inya, Tom, Chulym, Ket, Tym, Kyiv Yogan, Vakh, Vatinsky Egan, Tromyegan, Pim, Lyamin, Kazym, Poluy.
Ichthyofauna
Fishing has long been developed on the Ob. Thus, at the end of the 19th century, fishermen caught perch, ruff, goby, sculpin, pike, burbot, muksun, cheese, shokur, pyzhyan, nelma, grayling, brown trout, taimen, crucian carp, gudgeon, roach, chebak, dace, minnows, char, pickerel, sturgeon, sterlet, lamprey and other types of fish.
IN currently About 50 species and subspecies of fish live in the waters of the Ob and Ob Bay, half of them are of industrial value. The most valuable species: sturgeon, sterlet, nelma, muksun, broad whitefish, tugun, whitefish, peled. Fishing objects are mainly small ones - pike perch, pike, ide, burbot, bream, dace, roach, crucian carp, perch.
Cities on the Ob
Biysk (southwestern part: Fominskoye)
Barnaul
Novoaltaysk
Stone-on-Obi
Novosibirsk
Kolpashevo
Strezhevoy (on the Pasol channel)
Nizhnevartovsk
Megion
Langepas (on the Kayukovskaya channel)
Surgut
Nefteyugansk
Labytnangi
Salekhard
Main ports and marinas of the Ob-Irtysh basin:
Biysk river port, Barnaul river port, Novosibirsk, Tomsk, Samus, Nizhnevartovsk, Surgut, Labytnangi, Pavlodar, Omsk, Tobolsk, Tyumen, Khanty-Mansiysk.
Bridges
In the direction from the mouth to the source:
Bridge over the Ob in Barnaul
Yugorsky Bridge (Surgut, Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug);
railway bridge Surgut;
Shegarsky Bridge (near the village of Melnikovo, Tomsk region);
Northern Bypass Bridge in Novosibirsk (2008);
Dimitrovsky Bridge in Novosibirsk;
Trans-Siberian railway bridge (Novosibirsk);
Communal Bridge (Novosibirsk) (Oktyabrsky);
Metrobridge in Novosibirsk;
Olovozavodskoy bridge under construction in Novosibirsk;
Komsomolsky railway bridge in Novosibirsk;
Bridge over the gateway of the Novosibirsk hydroelectric power station;
railway bridge in Kamen-na-Obi, Altai Territory;
Communal bridge (road, railway) in Barnaul;
new bridge in Barnaul.
OB BAY OF THE KARA SEA
The Ob Bay is the largest bay of the Kara Sea, the estuary of the Ob River, located between the Gydansky and Yamal peninsulas. In the eastern part of the bay, the Tazovskaya Bay branches off from it, into which the Taz River flows.
The length of the bay is more than 800 km, width from 30 to 80 km, depth up to 25 m, it is free of ice, except for the southern part, in July and covered with ice in October.
Settlements - New Port, Yamburg, Cape Kamenny.
The soil in the bay is viscous, blue silt, while the coastal shallows and banks are sandy. The wave in the lip is very steep, short and irregular. The water in the lip is fresh and very muddy. The banks of the bay are completely treeless, monotonous, steep on the western side, flatter or lumpier on the eastern side. The soil on the banks is marshy; there is almost no flow forest (driftwood) on the banks. Islands are found only at the mouths of rivers and streams flowing into the bay. There are few bays and bays, only at Drovany Cape there is a small, shallow Preobrazhenya Bay and near Cape Yamasol there is a small convenient Nakhodka Bay. River Ob
In addition to the Ob, several other rivers flow into the bay. The rivers Nadym and Nyda flow into its southeastern part, forming an entire archipelago of islands at their confluence. On the western side, bounded by the vast Yamal Peninsula, most of them flow small rivers, of which some in the lower reaches are accessible to small river vessels, such as the rivers Yada, Oya, Ivocha, Zelenaya and others.
The lip is quite rich in fish; it contains both river and sea fish species: sturgeon, sterlet, nelma, burbot, herring, muksun, shchekur and others.
The acquaintance of Russians with the Gulf of Ob began in 1600; in 1601, an expedition from Berezovo to the mouth of the Taz River, under the leadership of the governor Savluk Pushkin and Prince Masalsky, was successful, and since then, by this route, until the destruction of the city of Mangazeya, voyages were made annually from the mouths of the Ob along its lip and the Taz Gulf to Mangazeya. The Arkhangelsk, Pustozer and Mezen residents also once sailed across the Ob Bay to Mangazeya; they walked with goods, on light carbas, from the Kara Bay up the Mutnaya River to the lake from which it flows, then unloaded the ships, dragged them empty through a small portage to the Zelenaya River, which flows from the west into the Ob Bay, loaded their ships again, sailed down the Zelyonaya to its mouth, crossed the Ob Bay and walked further along Tazovskaya Bay to the mouth of the Taz River to the city of Mangazeya. They returned the same way from Mangazeya the next year. These voyages stopped with the destruction of Mangazeya.
TRAVEL ON THE RIVER OB BY KAYAKS
(newspaper: Volzhsky Automotive No. 162 (7128) September 5, 2007)
We were a good team on a good trip
Togliatti sportsmen-travelers successfully completed the next stage of the Great Rivers of Russia kayak hiking program, which includes passing all the rivers of Russia more than 1,500 kilometers long. This year, water tourists walked 1,300 km along the Ob. The campaign was led, as it had been for the previous ten years, by the author of the idea, Nikolai Shesterin, chairman of the PPSh trade union committee.
Nikolai Ivanovich, how is the mood after the end of the hike The mood of the hike participants who completed the entire second stage of the route along the Great Ob (and we saw with our own eyes that it is great) is the best. All of us - ten participants in the hike - lived a small but eventful life, the memories of which will remain in our memory for a long time. At the “point” - summing up - everyone was unanimous in their assessment of what they had done: we were a good team on a good campaign.
It must be said that there were also newcomers among us: PPSh design engineer Nadezhda Vasilyeva and PPSh model maker Mikhail Suleymanov, as well as Leonid Malygin, a mechanic at the chassis-2 MSP workshop, went kayaking for the first time. All three passed the test of kilometers, heat, mosquitoes and midges more than successfully and are eager to continue our travels.
Veterans of sports trips - deputy director of Lyceum No. 67 Natalya Stepanova, process engineer PPSh Alexey Shatalin, mechanic of workshop 28-1 PrP Sergey Voronin and entrepreneur Vladislav Davydov - have added another actively spent vacation to their treasury and are already making plans for the future.
07/01/07
We passed Ust-Katav. Everyone is asleep except Voronin, Vasilyeva, NN and me. We bought Ural pebbles on the platform...
Stepanova
We go, we go, we go to distant lands... It’s already eight in the morning, and the whole team is sleeping. How will they get up on a hike? Outside the windows there are green and blue beauties. Good Russia! And we are going to unfamiliar places... Have they prepared something for us? I have no doubt that we will get rich, have a mental rest, and get a tan! And what else?
PS: Fellow traveler Katyusha has started getting ready, which means Chelyabinsk is coming soon!
Our train is flying along an absolutely flat plain. We had breakfast together for the first time. I see the team has been great! Foaled on duty:
1. Voronin-Shatalin.
2. Shesterin-Stepanova.
3. Kolosov-Evtushevskaya.
4. Suleymanov-Malygin.
5. Davydov-Vasilieva.
Shatalin
We travel all day - lakes and swamps. If this is a picture of our hike, then there will be plenty of mosquitoes. We boarded the train with relief that the turmoil with preparations was behind us. Now Novosibirsk is coming. There are hours left before the landing, and time will again be compressed to shoot, and then to calm down again and get into the rhythm of the campaign. But this will be when we collect the kayaks, buy food, go out on the water and stop at the first parking lot. Only then will we move away from road worries and we will be concerned about other things. In the evening we will sit by the fire and discuss what lies ahead on the route.
team in Novosibirsk - slipway
July 2, 2007
=06.05= Got up. I washed my face. I washed my teeth. And not only... Novosib is 1 hour 40 minutes away. It’s so good, Lord!.. I’ll sleep for another hour...
=15.00= We set out on the route, purchasing groceries. From the station we found a bus and took all our belongings to the Ob River with adventure. In the park on the right bank not far from the station, where we finished at the previous stage, he did not leave us, but took us across the bridge to the left bank. There we were not allowed on the beach - it was private territory! We turned around and went to God knows where. We started from a place on the shore to Novosibirsk - the beach of some not very guarded recreation center. We stopped at the last bridge to buy food. Two hours was enough.
We started “as adults” at exactly 15.00 “our” time. We made two and a half transitions. Looking at the overgrown banks, considering that the level of the Ob is one and a half meters higher than last time, we will have few parking spots on the sandbanks. But the current this year is about 5 km per hour. And this makes me very happy!
We stopped at the first parking lot on the left bank on a spit of sand. Downstream, about five hundred meters away, a dredger is working - deepening the bottom and pouring sand onto the shore. This is where we will spend the night. The kayaks go fine, only two of them don’t have rudders. Kolosov and Evtushevskaya especially suffered - their “Vuoksa” zigzagged all day.
July 3, 2007
=12.00= Relaxed on the beach near the village of Bibikha. Before this, we went to a holiday village on the left bank and bought water (2 vouchers), beer (1 voucher), kvass (1 voucher). A local guy on the shore asked, among other questions: “Where does the Ob flow?” And he was very surprised when we told him that it was in the Arctic Ocean. Lives on the Ob, an adult, but doesn’t know this!
After six transitions we got up for a snack and “sleep” on the forehead. opposite the village of Uspenka. Having eaten what the attendants prepared for us, we sleep for 30 minutes, if the midges give us... They didn’t. We relaxed in kayaks.
20.00= Had dinner. Today we are on duty with NN. We live according to local time - two hours ahead. Contrary to forecasts, a cell phone can receive SMS even 100 km away. Here is one of them to Misha Suleymanov from his wife: “Snowflakes stuck to my temple and drops of thunderstorm on my eyelashes. I can’t live without you and that means nothing will happen.” - Love is known at a distance.
4.07.2007
Today we stood on the shore near a birch grove. The mosquitoes are eating for the second day. For breakfast, we cooked pasta and jelly as usual, lightly burning the pasta. I didn’t sleep well at night - either the motorcycle was started somewhere, or mosquitoes and midges woke me up. And at 3.30 (Tolyatti time) I woke up, having slept well. Then, after all, I forced myself to sleep until I woke up with my alarm clock.
Today we walked 67 km and were not tired at all. The powerful current helps. It rained heavily but briefly twice. In the village of Toshar we bought food for two days.
July 5, 2007
Everything is as usual. I put on scarves at night and caught seven fish. In the morning I salted it and cleaned it. We were standing on the island. Yesterday evening I went into the forest - horror! Overgrown, swampy, garbage forest. And on the sand spit where they stood, they picked mushrooms under the fir trees. There will be mushroom soup. We made two transitions into the easy one - the current, in some places, was up to 7 km per hour.
Stepanova
We are standing in Kozhevnikovo. Everyone went to the village, and I stayed to bathe (wash myself). True, the water is dirty, and it’s no coincidence - along the entire village there are a lot of children and adults swimming near the shore. But still, great! Feeling like a newborn! It's a pity that I can't do it every day. But, little by little. Ours are back!
6.07.2007
We are standing at the road bridge to Tomsk. We bought groceries for one day. We bought it. Midges don't let you just stand on the shore. Near the village you can see a “clearing” that was made by the storm this year - spruce and pine trees have been knocked down in a narrow strip.
We set up bivouac in a bad place - on a dry coastal swamp. In the evening, immediately after dinner, there was a downpour with a strong wind - we were in tents at that time. Midges don't let you relax. Mosquitoes eat. And at crossings you get horseflies. In general, if it weren’t for this “infamy”, it would be a completely normal hike. I think we’ll get used to it - there’s nowhere to go.
July 7, 2007
We got up early because we went to bed early yesterday. On the occasion of 07/07/07, a new schedule has been announced: 45 minutes - we walk, 15 minutes - we rest on the water. The current in some places is 7-8 kilometers per hour. Oleg Babaev was right - it was possible to cover the entire 1300 km in 25 days, even in 20. But who imagined big water and a good current...
Out to Sandy shore take a smoke break, and Lyosha found the nests of seagulls. In one nest, next to the eggs, lay a dead baby gull, and in the other, an unhatched one was screaming in a moving egg. There was a desire to collect all the eggs and...make scrambled eggs, but then they decided not to touch such beauty. The seagulls screamed very loudly and calmed down only when we left the island.
We made a short detour and went to the village of Krasny Yar. We bought groceries. When approaching the village, locals poured onto the shore and bombarded them with traditional questions: - Where from? - Where? - Where are you from?
Near the village, a stinking river flows into the mighty Ob. The water is very brown and smells like manure. We didn't even bother to enter it. There are many uninhabited houses that are boarded up and collapsing. On an abandoned square there is a monument to Lenin, showing the right path. On the white monument, the following places are stained with grease: the navel, nipples, mouth, nose, eyes and eyebrows. The cap in his hand is knocked off. We took a photo at the pedestal. A “sniffy” man of about thirty with a beer voucher in his hand passing by asked with a grin:
Krasny Yar - Parabel
07/08/2007
Today the flotilla declared the Day of Our Women: Natalya Stepanova, Nadezhda Vasilyeva, Olga Evtushevskaya - our heroines!
In the morning Olga came up to me with tears in her eyes and, sobbing, said: “Kol!” I can't stand it anymore. The midge bit me all at night. I’ll go home... - Her face was covered in spots from bites. We looked carefully at the tent - on the window there was a mesh with cells into which a mosquito, let alone a midge, could easily crawl. He promised to repair it in the evening.
9.07.2007
Today was an amazing day! What we men thought about has come true! After three 50-minute marches, not immediately, we stood on the elevated right bank opposite the village of Sokolovo. Grass. Judging by the mounds on the ground, this is the site of a former settlement that ceased to exist 30-40 years ago. We stood not far from the road leading from the shore into the depths of the meadows. It turned out that there was a ferry crossing here - we observed the approach and departure of the ferry with cars.
All the details necessary for a bath came together: stones on the shore in abundance, a hole - a depression in the cliff, a sandy shore with a steep descent to the river, even a birch tree (!) - the only one in the whole area gave us its lower branch, from which Vlad and Sergei made 4 brooms.
We made such a super bath! They lit a good fire under the stones stacked in a pyramid and heated them until they cracked. Then they put out the fire and covered the area with cellophane. The result was a wonderful structure. There were even two logs inside instead of benches. While the fire was burning in front of the bathhouse, they held mini-football on a grass field, and instead of a break between halves, there was water polo in the river. At the same time, the gate stood on... the shore. My team turned out to be more agile and we scored “them” 10 goals, “they” scored us - 6. It’s a pity, but in the heat of the fight I “ran into” Seryoga’s knee with my right ribs. Something inside me crunched painfully - after all, the doctors recognized that I had osteoporosis, i.e. bones are fragile...
In the evening, the clean and cheerful ones staged a small concert for women. We drank beer (we took a canoe to Sokolovo), talked with local fishermen, the mosquitoes almost did not interfere with the holiday - the breeze blew them from the shore into the forest. In the evening, a herd of cows visited our site, and we had to defend the territory.
07/10/2007
We are standing in Molchanovo. We buy groceries. We made two crossings in the morning. On the second crossing we passed the sign standing on the bank of the Ob River, 1111 km. In the morning it rained both ahead and behind us. We somehow slipped through without any dampness. In the morning, while we were getting ready, the mosquitoes started eating us. Before leaving, we treated the local fisherman to porridge and beer. We improved our health ourselves. The man said that there were no living creatures left in the forests - moose and other animals were being eaten by midges and mosquitoes. The midges clog the lungs and the moose die from suffocation. And in the spring there was a big flood and many small animals were also killed. “Every year it gets worse and worse” - the mood in Siberian villages.
I plan to spend the night at the confluence of the Chulym River with the Ob. The rib hurts so much, damn it, I couldn’t breathe or sneeze. But you still need to row. Every stroke of the oar reverberates through the barrel.
We walked 32 km and stood on sand dunes washed up by Chulym. We almost reached the village of Igrekovo. Again - half a day. Let's rest. Let's swim. Let's listen to music. The only loud station "police wave" from Tomsk. Well, let's listen. Olga asked:
- Guys! Can you make the music quieter!? - The guys turned off the radio completely.
Today Vlad and Nadezhda are cooking fish soup - a man in Molchanovo gave fish, and even drove them in his Niva to the store and back. Some of the fish (perches) are in the fish soup, some are salted. They'll give Lyoshik some salt for his birthday.
During the day the temperature is 27-30 degrees. The radio said: On July 10-11, rain with hurricane winds and hail are expected in the Tomsk region. Before a thunderstorm, it was recommended to close the windows tightly and... stock up on water in advance - so that during a thunderstorm you don’t have to go to the well for water? Or will the rivers become muddy?
Another piece of news was broadcast yesterday and today: a group of tourists from Moscow (4 people) were boating on some river and the boats capsized. At first it was reported that two were saved, and today - that everyone was alive, but one boat was not found. A helicopter from the Ministry of Emergency Situations flew out to pick them up because there was only enough food left for one day. I can imagine how many problems they have now...
The new kayak "Vuoksa-2" is quite tolerable, but it's bad - there is no rudder and the compartments for the crew are too short - you can't stretch your legs if you load it over the frame. But Kolosov’s crew seemed to get the hang of it.
The atmosphere in the team is quite friendly, even cheerful. Not a single dinner or breakfast is complete without jokes and fun, but the tension, I feel in my gut, is accumulating. Time will tell who will break first. So far there has been one excess: Seryoga said swear words in response to Lyosha. I immediately stopped this disgrace...
Getting ready for dinner. Mainly cloudy. The wind died down. It rained both left and right with lightning and thunderstorms, but it didn’t even drop over us. On the sandy shore there are a minimum of mosquitoes, but horseflies sting painfully and unexpectedly.
For dinner, the fish soup on duty was prepared 1 hour and 10 minutes late - they relaxed, the day was not enough. I had to make a suggestion. We ate fish soup with sand (we didn’t watch the pot while cooking) and in the rain. It’s good that the “main” rainfall passed 500 meters to the left. At 22.30 there was another light rain. Everyone: good night, brothers!
07/11/2007 Mogochino.
The village of Mogochino is more or less large. Ferry crossing. There are three ferries available. One works. Today we made two crossings and just a little bit, in the end we walked 18 km - the current is very decent - about 5-7 km per hour. The team rushed to the shops and through the streets to get acquainted with the sights. Today we all saw a charming picture: when approaching a sandbank, a large flock of seagulls took off from the shore. They took off in waves and in the rays rising sun The seagulls had silver wings. The picture will not be forgotten for a long time! I charge my phones at a nearby store. I'll send an SMS to the editor of the newspaper "Volzhsky Avtostroitel" that we've covered 500 km!
Forty minutes passed. It turns out that waiting by the kayaks is not at all like walking around the village. Where are they wandering? They are probably sitting in a cafe and drinking “coffee”? We should have pulled the canoes further ashore and everyone should have gone for a walk along Mogochin. That’s what we’ll do in Kolpashevo. Who needs them here - our canoes and equipment? These walkers will come - let's go to the store and drink beer on the path...
The weather is cloudless. Hot. The radio reports that rain and thunderstorms are possible in the Tomsk region today. Probably, as usual, something will catch up after lunch. A local resident said that the current is weak now. It was strong a month ago. Everyone is surprised at the distances that we still have to overcome, and that we have already covered. Meanwhile, the ferry has already made two trips. Everything is great, but my rib hurts a lot - I can hardly sleep at night...
07/12/2007
We woke up two hours later - at 8.00 - that's how the people on duty woke us up. And still the state of not getting enough sleep - white nights do not allow you to sleep at night.
=22.00= We had dinner. Sergey cooked delicious again. They went to bed. I'll write down some quick notes about the day. Today was a special working day - the north wind blew all day. Excitement. We walked against the waves and wind. We made about six transitions. At lunchtime we slept for about half an hour under the scorching sun and strong wind - midges and mosquitoes did not bother us. At one of the crossings, Lyosha and Sergey passed close to an oncoming barge - the watchman from the pusher tug cursed them out through a megaphone. The helmsman Shatalin was severely reprimanded and in the evening he wanted to make a hole in his pants, but changed his mind. Although it would be necessary to punish...
07/13/2007
Today the duty officers Lyokha and Seryoga slept for 30 minutes. My cry arose in the morning silence: “On duty!” Are you going to sleep until 12 o'clock?! Lyoshik decided that if yesterday it was possible to get up two hours later, then why not repeat the same today? Moreover, yesterday no one said a word about yesterday’s late rise. Can you imagine if you got up an hour earlier? In general, Lyoshik began to object to something, that he would tell the team to wake up in an hour... And, in general, they are on duty and will decide when to wake them up... I couldn’t stand it and growled from the tent: - Shut up! - The anarchists have gone completely crazy. Tonight there will be a team meeting with “personal matters” - mine and Lyoshin’s. I think we'll make peace...
On the second crossing I made a mistake - I made the wrong decision on the route. It was necessary to go along the left bank, but it seemed to me that the Ob had washed out the channel here too. Result: the crews splashed around in the waves for about an hour. I apologized.
Kolpashevo is a large regional center located on the steep right bank. We came to him at 12 noon. We packed the kayaks and everyone went to the village. On last war About 1,500 people from the village died. Their names are carved on plaques at the memorial. We stood there and were silent...
We visited the local history museum - an ancient building with two floors. Visit - 45 rubles per person. Each was given a ticket from the Department of Culture of the Tomsk Region for visiting a branch of the Tomsk Regional local history museum. True, the blue stamp on the ticket indicated the price of 20 - 00.
We were in the museum for more than an hour. I liked it. The exhibits were especially memorable: a mammoth skull, a powerful bear trap, and a hut for making offerings to the gods of local peoples. After the museum we went to the “Armenian Shashlik” and ate a portion of the “Siberian Crown” with white wine. We bought food for five days. 4 hours 50 minutes after arrival we went downstream. All. It’s already dark and it’s impossible to write. I fall asleep to a mosquito choir concert...
07/14/2007
=09.00= NN and I are on duty. We got up according to the new schedule at 7.00. At 8.00 the team was woken up - breakfast was already on the table. The semolina porridge and jelly went off with a bang. We spent the night on the cape of the island near a hut that had fallen on its side and was washed away by the current. There was little space for tents and canoes, but they were accommodated.
Yesterday, 13.07 on Friday afternoon, about 20 strategic bombers one after another with an interval of fifteen minutes. They flew from east to west - they were guarding our peaceful campaign. The sight was impressive - the sky was striped.
We stopped for the night on the sand - the north wind blows away mosquitoes and midges, the sand is clean, full of firewood - live - I don’t want to!
07/15/2007
Today is our Lyoshik's birthday! Happy holiday to you, Lyoshik, happy 29th birthday!!
Yesterday we stood in a good place - we put up scarves, and away we go: every 10 minutes we pulled out a fish. Considering the “blatant” fact that at one of the crossings Seryoga pulled out 5 good crucian carp and bream from an abandoned net, the fried fish turned out great.
Kolosov suddenly got swollen thumb on his right hand - he says that he pricked him with a branch. Today we went to the former village of Mumyshevo, from which only one house remained, picked plantain for Anatoly’s lotion and asked the locals for a pack of salt - the people on duty (not one!) in Kolpashevo, it turned out, didn’t buy any salt. I chopped plantain leaves into small pieces with a knife and tied it around Tolin’s finger - I think he’ll live! A reprimand was announced to Sergei Voronin for his late departure from Mumyshevo. He was changing clothes, you see. Frozen, Mowgli...
At the beginning of the journey today there was a tailwind, then there was a snout, now there was a tailwind again. The clouds cleared from solid by lunchtime. In the evening, Leonid set up a trap expropriated from poachers and finally caught a good carp.
In the morning at breakfast I noticed that the entire enamel bucket was black on the inside - the attendants (Tolya and Olya) did not keep track of the potatoes that they had set to heat up (!). Tolik's finger was completely swollen and we decided to unload their kayak - we moved the boilers and shopping bag into other kayaks. And Misha cleaned out the bucket - someone makes mistakes and errors, and someone heroically is forced to eliminate the results. Misha is our man!
=19.00= Kolosov’s psychological state is of concern - the abscess on his finger, of course, causes pain, the whole finger has turned blue, but this is not the end of his life. And he walks somewhat crooked, moves slowly, his movements are clumsy and chaotic - these are my observations of the “cosmonaut” Kolosov. I suggested that he was bitten by a snake, to which Kolosov categorically replied that he was pricked by a sharp branch. On the train home (I can’t do it right now) I’ll try to write down characteristics of everyone’s behavior, but for now, Friend, I’m sorry, but that’s how you look...
After a zigzag search for a parking spot, we found a more or less decent one on the right bank. In front of us, about 200-300 meters away, is a sand spit (underwater), from which rare willow trees grow. A channel with stagnant water - I have a feeling there will be a fish stop again.
Today I had to go to the village of Novoseltsevo - the birthday boy Lyosha had to charge his phone, and Tolya had to see the doctors. We made a two-kilometer detour. The store turned out to be, as expected, in the center of the village. They bought beer, Lyoshik asked the saleswoman to charge the phone, and a local resident took Tolya to the hospital, accompanied by Olga. At the store, a local resident began to invite us to visit, but after he swore several times during the conversation, we decided that it was not ours! - and didn’t go. Tolika’s wound was treated and covered with Vishnevsky’s ointment (which is what I expected) and was advised to go to the hospital in the village of Parabel, downstream. He did not tell the paramedic about the alleged snake bite.
07/16/2007 The village of Parabel.
=08.00= Today was a terrible night - yesterday we celebrated Lyoshin’s birthday, I didn’t sleep well, and Olga woke me up in tears at one in the morning with a message: - Tolya’s hand is all black! What to do? - We agreed to go to the village of Parabel early in the morning. In general, the problem, like a tumor, continues to grow. Like a tumor, the problem is treated in three ways:
- they don’t notice - it will resolve itself;
- treat to cure;
- cut out - deleted.
We started at five o'clock in the morning without breakfast. We arrived at Parabel at eight. Village residents said that the bus to Novosibirsk leaves at five o’clock in the evening. Option number 3, alas, is in action...
21.30= Found a good place for overnight stays only at 21:00. Before this, we decided to go through the channel - the current in the channel was noticeable and favorable. The whole flotilla happily entered some large lake. We walked around it all along the banks and... did not find a way out. That is: water flows in in a good stream, but does not flow out! There was probably a pipe laid underground... I had to go against the flow again along the channel back.
=22.30= Misha and Lenya cooked a wonderful fish soup for dinner - we never ate too much on fish on any of our trips. Last night we caught a decent amount with scarves and salted it. The parking lot was on a channel with no current and the nets were not clogged with debris...
In Parabel, after Olga and Tolika had been seen off with great sadness, we went into the dining room and ate “like people” okroshka and pasta with chicken leg. The village is quite clean - especially Sovetskaya Street. Monuments, small parks, a stadium - it’s clear that the “head” keeps order. I like it!
At this time, our Olya and Tolya are probably already in Novosibirsk - good luck to them and a speedy recovery to Anatoly.
Parabel - Lukashkin Yar
07/17/2007
Today we visited the famous village of Narym and visited the history museum. Narym is more than 400 years old, as indicated by a large capital shield on the bank of the channel. At first a fort was built, but in a different place. After repeated flooding by spring floods, the fort was moved to a higher current location. The village is small, with rickety houses and fences. The best building is the administration building, built by the Poles about 150 years ago.
The museum is a small building of three rooms. But the most remarkable thing about it is the nearby house where Stalin lived in exile for four months. He escaped on a passing ship to his Tiflis with the help of a local resident. The house is small with two rooms. Stalin's bed is located behind the stove by the window - you won't even see it right away when you enter the room. The chest for things is quite voluminous...
They left an entry in the “log of visits” with greetings from Tolyatti tourists and brief description route. We drank beer outside at the table and went to our “swallows”. Several local people had gathered on the shore, looking at the kayaks with interest. One of those standing on the shore recalled aloud to us how “once a man in a kayak passed here” - we said that we had read about him in Komsomolskaya Pravda. Some kind of friendly spark flashed between the man standing on the shore and us. The man, having doubts, offered his house for an overnight stay, located on the right bank at the confluence of the channel into the Ob. Let's see what kind of house it is?!
And in the museum we walked... barefoot! Bliss!
=20.17= The duty officers Sergei and Lyokha are preparing fish soup for dinner - the owner of the hut, Valera, treated him to fish. When we landed on the right bank, noticing a small house at the exit of the channel into the Ob, the first thing we saw were bear tracks in the wet sand. Let's go to the hut. Lyosha and Misha saw a snake crawling into a corner. We decided that it was impossible to spend the night in such a place. We had just had a snack when Valera, the owner of the house, arrived in a motorboat. How will you go further here - you need to stay...
The snake was killed. They prepared axes and a rocket launcher against the bear if he returned. We will spend the night in tents on the shore and, if desired, in the house. Valera and Seryoga hit the road in a motorboat and checked Valera's nets - they brought a lot of fish. Valera immediately cut several small, still living sterlets into pieces, salted them and... seven minutes later the appetizer was ready. I had to remember about our “NZ” - we drank a little, sitting by the fire on the shore, and ate delicious fish.
=20.26= The attendants are preparing the house for receiving guests - putting things in order. We noticed another snake that had crawled under the floor. They decided to have dinner in the house at a table by candlelight. My cracked rib is gradually calming down - now I can lie on my stomach, but for now I can’t even lie on my right side. I have to either snore on my back or lie on my left “heart” side until exhaustion - I don’t get enough sleep chronically.
Seryoga called his wife at home and told him about the snakes. The advice was this: put jars of condensed milk in the corners of the hut. We joked in unison: to lure snakes from all over the area into our hut! The talk about the bear also continues. It is about 40 km to Kargasok. Tomorrow we will be somewhere in 4 transitions, i.e. after lunch.
=22.04= I’m lying in a tent. I remember the passing day. We ate fish soup at the table and sitting on benches in the house, but it’s much more romantic to have dinner outside by the river, after all. Push tugs go by, pushing barges upstream empty and downstream loaded mostly with sand and rubble. There are also tugboats pulling barges. This morning one of these passed with two ferry barges, on which there were brand new tractors and trucks- Equipment is probably being transported to logging sites.
IN this moment past our bivouac a hard-working tugboat is dragging two barges loaded with some kind of scrap metal. The speed against the current is low - five to six kilometers per hour - at this speed we are walking in a kayak on still water. The fish, salted the day before, is dried strung on a fishing line in the breeze.
We are getting ready for bed with Natalya and Misha and Lenya in tents, and the young people: Seryoga, Lyosha, Nadezhda and Vlad are sitting in the house talking with the owner. The house has two beds, a stove, benches, two armchairs and a lot of fishing stuff. You can light a light bulb from batteries, you can light a kerosene lamp, you can use candles. Live - I don’t want to!..
=23.50= At eleven, Valera suddenly wanted to go somewhere on a motorboat. And then something doesn’t work. He left somehow strangely and didn’t even take a bottle of vodka for his hospitality, promising to come.
OK! Good night to us and may the bear not come!..
07/18/2007
=08.00= Good night, alas, it didn’t work out - it was the night of the performance. Why did I allow our young people to “talk” with Valera? At three o'clock in the morning the conversation ended with Valera wanting to go home by motorboat. The first attempt to start the engine failed - Valera fell into the water in his clothes. The floundering in the water was short-lived. To our surprise (NN and I watched the action from the tent through the net), Valera climbed into the motorboat drifting with the current and screamed: “Yes, I swim like a dolphin!” - He started the engine again, made an arc on the boat, and then his professional sense of self-preservation did not fail - at low speed the boat buried itself in the shore. An attempt to effectively jump ashore again ended with the “dolphin” swimming in the water. Vlad rushed in and pulled the “bather” out of the water by his clothes. Seryoga’s behavior was surprising - he was laughing out loud on the shore and didn’t even make an attempt to help the “drowning man”. Alcohol apparently completely dulled the sense of danger.
At 8.30 “our” Valera woke up in the house. For a long time on the street he remembered out loud where he swam at night. Then he remembered that he had an appointment early in the morning in Nadym, he spent a long time looking for his cell phone - he found it in the motorboat, but it didn’t work because he “spent the night” in the water at the bottom of the boat. We invited him to breakfast - he refused both fish soup and any food. He climbed into the motorboat, started the engine on the second jump and, saying goodbye, scratched his way home.
We start late - the young people moved slowly after yesterday. As I suggested last night, going to bed in a tent on the shore, communication with the locals ended in drinking (all the NZ was drunk during the night - 4 bottles between three), and almost ended in tragedy - the “dolphin” could have drowned if he had been a little weaker. When leaving, Valera threw all the fish that he had taken out of the nets yesterday into the water. Including sturgeons. The Ob also accepted 4 empty containers into its waters, which Lyosha, in order to hide evidence, threw into the water while we were sleeping. The young man does not understand that “old people” have a sensitive sleep and it is impossible to hide what happened at night from us...
On the first crossing we felt strong smell diesel fuel - on the left bank we noticed a barge tilting into the water. Downstream on the water there are large rainbow stains of diesel fuel - apparently the barge is leaking and shitting into the Ob.
Kargasok. Upon arrival in the town, I immediately went to look for the police department, turned to the person on duty at the entrance and told about the barge and the stains on the surface of the Ob. He indicated the place on the map where the barge stood. We visited the museum - nothing interesting, but we paid 10 rubles for entry. The team seems to be in chaos. We agreed to have a beer in a cafe and meet in half an hour. We went to the post office, bought everything in the store, but an hour later (!) there were no kayaks: M. Suleymanov, L. Malygin, N. Vasilyeva, V. Davydov - I will reprimand everyone and reprimand them at dinner. Postscript: I didn’t - you’re our quick-witted one... On the way to the shore, I went to the police department again - the duty officer “reported” that they had sent an environmentalist and the police to the scene of the incident - and that’s right!
We started one hour late. Kargasok is the dirtiest town on the Ob River - there is a continuous film on the water in the bay and it stinks of diesel fuel or kerosene.
We stood on the right bank near a dry tree lying on a sandy slope. There is a small booth over the cliff. NN and I are on duty and therefore there is no time to write, and there is nothing to write about - being late spoiled the mood. I hurried NN and didn’t even let her talk on the phone at the post office. We arrived on time and... sat in the kayak for an hour, damn it...
07/19/2007
Today I was once again convinced that there is not a single day on this hike that is similar to another. Yesterday evening, among others, a small sterlet was caught in a scarf. I took a photo this morning with her on my arm. Everyone got up at 8.00, started at 9.00. Before 17:00 we made 8 crossings along the channels - I decided to shorten the route. We got lost in loops. At one time it even seemed like we were going to the wrong place.
=16.00= Sign on the shore 1590 km.
I mentally turned to Nature so that I wouldn’t get lost. The channel (with the current!) led to the shore of the Ob... There was no way to go out into the open spaces, but there were small waves on the river and I gave the command: - To the left! Into the stream! - And again, having made a big loop, we came to a straight line, which seemed too long. That’s where I decided: if we go out to the Ob, then now we won’t go into any small channels. To our universal joy, we finally came out into the open spaces of Mother Ob! We stopped the motorboat and asked the guys where the former village of Karga was located, which we, as I assumed, had already passed. It turned out - no. Karga is located on the left bank a kilometer away from us downstream.
Stopped to spend the night on the spot former village. On the shore there is a fishermen's house. Next to us are the remains of the piles of the former village pier. In the depths of the shore there is another house with a bathhouse. Alexey broke through there, came and said that the bathhouse could be heated, but it would be extremely difficult to get there. Seryoga tried to persuade everyone, but no one agreed to climb the hell out of nowhere, so that they could then climb through the grass and water, the hell out of nowhere.
The team sits on a log (a large dry tree lies on the shore) and communicates. They talk about eternal topics: how poorly our work is paid and how bad the state is.
The fishing, as at the previous site, is wonderful. Just throw away the scarf - there are 2-3 pieces. We lost one scarf an hour ago - apparently it got caught on a snag. We dry 26 pieces of fish on a rope, salt 30 pieces in a voucher. Tomorrow, perhaps, we’ll put up a net - we grabbed one that was tangled and abandoned on the shore. Here in the store they cost 150 rubles, they are Chinese, so we saw a lot of them abandoned on the banks.
The broken rib gradually subsides and heals. Every night I sleep more peacefully. Rowing also hurts, but I'm not a girl to complain. We only often go last. We are currently one day ahead of schedule. Tomorrow we will try to add more. You need to have two days in reserve. Good weather must end at some point and then problems can appear.
=23.00= Well, where else can you lie in a tent on the bank of the Great River, contemplating the water flowing from left to right? And past on the right - to the left against the current, with a rattling engine spitting exhaust gases into the water with gurgling sounds, a tugboat pulls three barges, carrying out someone’s task of delivering cargo from point “A” to point “B”.
07/20/2007
Well, it finally rained today! The heat below 30 is already boring.
=9.42= We passed the 1600 km sign. Hooray! Comrades!
After three crossings we entered Ust-Tym. A dying dying village. We bought food for one day and each got an iced Yarpivo. During one of the breaks, we ate dried fish with a beer, without leaving the kayaks...
Today was the busiest day of all. We walked 76 km. We were a little tired, but not too tired. They even offered to make another transition...
In one of the channels I saw an amazing picture: a cobweb in the shape of a fan was flying in the wind over the water, and along the water... a spider was gliding! Like a windsurfer. After about five seconds, the spider, twitching convulsively, broke away from the water and floated in the air. And what, after this someone will claim that spiders do not have intelligence?!
Today we had everything: rain, wind, sun, long straight tiring passages, horns and greetings from tugboats, some captains already recognize us.
...142 million people - the population of Russia as of June 1, 2007. - Radio Russia reported. And how many of them, just like us, are now traveling across the expanses of Mother Earth?!
We stood opposite the village of Oktyabrskoye. We are on the low right bank, the village is on the left high cliff. A nice place, beautiful view. I’ll make a sketch in my diary before going to bed... And our “archaeologists” Lyosha and Seryoga are looking for valuable antiques in the ruins of old houses - apparently, there was once a settlement here. Good night to us...
07/21/2007
What a great day! It all started with the fact that at night I had to jump out of the tent (I just fell asleep!) and close it with the canopy - it began to rain, accompanied by a strong wind.
Post by Sergei
Today we went sailing - unforgettable feeling some kind of unearthly happiness. Probably, those who have not sailed will not understand me! The whole team had a sparkle in their eyes and felt some kind of kinship of souls. But let’s move away from this topic - Nikolai Ivanovich will write about the sail later! Tomorrow I and two other crew members will be accepted as sailors. A few days before, these “mad” tourists from Togliatti began to make plans for the dedication and somehow looked askance and giggled. Okay, we'll live - we won't die! Time will tell what they came up with for us.
We sailed for two periods and enjoyed the speed. Moreover, the speed was decent. We even had a snack on the go. These crossings will be remembered by everyone not only because there was no need to row, but also because we walked side by side for many kilometers with jokes and anecdotes.
07/22/2007
We stood under a triangular fairway sign on a sandy strip on the site of the former village of Verkhnee-Vartovsk. There was nothing left of the village - the shore was washed away by the mighty Ob and carried away all traces of human life. The taiga begins right from the shore, littered with logs and branches. We drank fifty per thousand kilometers. The guys went on an excursion to the taiga - there will be something to remember.
And today was again an unusual day. We were going to make two crossings - we “did” 70 kilometers. appeared serious problem with parking lots - the banks are all flooded up to the trees and it’s always difficult to find a place to spend the night. We stopped at the landing stage, almost reaching the village of Lukashkin Yar. Or rather, we went there before the village, but returned back because it was dangerous to stand near the village - it was Sunday. The locals need something to have fun with...
The day was full of adventures - we got caught in a strong squall before the rain, but managed to hide in our kayaks in time behind the trees on the leeward shore. We stood there for about twenty minutes, waiting out the rain. Then we spent a long time looking for a suitable bank for parking, moving from bank to bank of the Ob. Here the river in front of Lukashkin Yar makes big loops - it washed two big islands. While we were looking for a decent parking place, instead of two crossings we ended up with a full day of work. We stood at the landing stage and will stand here for a long time.
The landing stage is some kind of prehistoric - all the insides have been torn out and burned. The barge is tied to the shore with some kind of wire and pieces of cable. And nearby there are two former barges aground. One is half-submerged with fuel oil inside. How much flowed into the Ob from it when the water level was higher?
The island where we stopped was separated from the village by a flooded meadow - passengers were transported on a motorboat under oars on the Meteor that passed upstream.
Lukashkin Yar - Nizhnevartovsk
We woke up at 9 o'clock. Today we'll take a day's rest - we're two days ahead of schedule. Vlad and Sergei went for food to the village of Lukashkin Yar, fording a channel...
=22.25= Well, the day is coming to an end. The first, but I think not the last, day is over. There was complete relaxation with the bathhouse - I’m happy for Seryoga, Vlad and Nadezhda. I'm glad that they had fun, but this pleasure should not relax and affect the team. It's almost 11 am and we haven't had dinner yet! To the duty officers: Vlad and Nadezhda are reprimanded! It got to the point that the idea was expressed in the bathhouse to transport all the property to the village!? Well, in general, they are great - we agreed with a local resident Edik and he gave us a bathhouse to rent. We bought a 6 x 1.5 liter pack of beer for the bathhouse. Everyone had a great time.
Edik lives in half of the old house. Furniture in the apartment: table, bed, bench, chair, TV and dilapidated chair. Everything is old and neglected. Edik was somewhat wary at first, but after a liter of beer he started talking. He showed us his underground floor, which he had recently renovated - Eduard’s underfloor was also empty. Our bathhouse ended with me, NN, Misha, Lenya and Lyosha going “home” in kayaks - to the tents standing on the banks of the Ob. A little later, three people came in a canoe and I gave them “shizdyulei”. A little! Let them light the fire themselves and cook dinner themselves. This is for relaxing in a village bathhouse without “second thoughts” about responsibility to the team. Yes, this didn’t bother the team, but we still have a week to live in hiking conditions. Let's relax at home!
Even before the bathhouse, Olga Evtushevskaya called on her cell phone and said that Kolosov... was still in the hospital! It turned out that everything was much more serious than we thought...
And yet, today there will be a festive dinner - “February 23” is not yet felt through the fault of those on duty.
07/14/2007
=22.05= Evening. We had dinner once again at the next parking lot. I must admit that, with the exception of the fact that our tent is located almost on the road (along which cars drive from time to time), we chose a good place. The table was left over from the fishermen - a flat, wide board. Tree trunk trimmings replace chairs. As for our tent, I fenced it off with logs and placed white bags instead of fencing signs, so that only a drunk driver, an idiot, could run into us. This probably won't happen overnight...
About today's past. In the morning we got up at 10 o'clock. At 11.00 (without even looking at the clock) we set out on the route. For some reason, Vlad and Nadezhda were delayed by ten minutes. On the Lukashkin Yar landing stage, several people were waiting for the Voskhod meteor. I looked at the network installed yesterday. She had to be pulled out by force - she got caught on a snag during the night. The tangled part had to be left in the water, cut off. Looking at these easy to break nets, the thought comes: with cheap Chinese nets, we Siberians are destroying more fish than we catch. Nets break easily, but it is easy for fish to become entangled in them. Then the remains of these nets fall to the bottom and hundreds more fish become entangled in them - in each cell, after all, a fish of suitable size can find its death. Many abandoned tangled nets were seen on the banks. It’s easier to throw them away (they cost only 100-150 rubles) than to untangle them...
Fulfilling yesterday's agreement with the owner of the bathhouse, we went into a little bay near the village. Edik didn’t come ashore to meet us - apparently yesterday he continued drinking after we left; his housemate - some shabby fellow of unknown age - came out. Vlad and Nadezhda went to buy bread - yesterday in the evening there was no bread in the store. Edik’s neighbor said that on the border of the villages of Black Yar and White Yar, which are located on the bank downstream, bones and even mammoth tusks are often found. We decided to go near the shore to take a look. At a speed of 7 km per hour - such was the current, little could be seen on the cliffs of the shore. All eyes looked, but did not see the mammoth bones.
Then they rowed across the river to the left bank towards a tailwind. They raked it out. They set a sail at the island and “fried” it for half an hour at a speed of about 10 km per hour downstream. For a snack we stopped at the site of the former village, marked on the map as Maloye Vachpugulskoye (non-residential). No one has lived there for twenty years now and there are not even the remains of houses. Moreover, the shore is clayey and muddy. And yet, I found a horseshoe and a forged nail in the ruins - for the museum at the dacha.
We went further along the left bank. I decided to shorten it a little at the next turn and... we “shortened” everything. The sea level on the Ob fairway was about 3. It shook us all so much that they even talked about it at dinner. Especially those who are going for the first time... We stopped for the night right behind the factories of the village of Aleksandrovskoye on the left bank on the road running along the peninsula.
In the evening we met one of the passing motorists. This is what he wrote to us in the logbook:
07/24/2007 I wish you good Siberian health and many more thousand kilometers to go! If you have health, you have everything!
Baryshev Konstantin Mikhailovich. S. Aleksandrovskoye, Tomsk region. cell: 89138016424. house: 8-382-55 2-55-43. slave: 2-46-83.
VAZ 2115 car. Gaps between the doors, weak support bearings, weak exhaust pipe mounting bracket, weak steering rack, constantly need to change the formula, door locks are whimsical...
The lines about our cars were written in response to my question: - How do you like our VAZ car? It will be necessary to indicate them in the note about the trip to the Volzhsky Automobile Builder.
As we approached Aleksandrovsky, three men drove up to us in a motorboat. We were very surprised by our extreme hike. We were treated to "nemiroffka" and photographed our flotilla. They offered to introduce us to the head of the village administration, but we didn’t need that...
07/25/2007
=13.00= Two periods of work have passed. We are on a “smoke break”; by the way, no one on the team smokes! We congratulated Alfinur, Misha Suleymanov’s wife, on her birthday via SMS and by phone - she called. In addition to naval pasta, there was herring for breakfast today - and why did I buy it yesterday?! I wanted to remember Tolyatti.
Yesterday evening we took a quick walk along Aleksandrovskaya. We were looking for a cafe, but they ended up in different parts sat down. Not found. We bought beer and drank in the tent, and then Kostya, a local police officer, arrived and we sat at a table with him. We talked about life...
In the morning, both feet immediately hurt - one was pierced, and the skin on the left heel burst in several places. I treat myself with plantain leaves. NN took out a splinter from her foot with a needle - she caught it, apparently, while running without slippers.
=18.00= We are standing in the village of Strozhevoye. The guys went to the city, except for Misha Suleymanov, NN and me. Today we got lost for the second time during our trip - the fish inspectors on a motorboat showed us the entrance to the channel that runs past Strozhevoy. But then I trusted the “computer” map and “drilled” the team into the wrong channel. We ended up in the Ob again. Let's go to the port. Then we decided to go to the Strozhevoy channel on canoes. An hour and a half of rowing against the current - it’s small, but it’s still there. He reprimanded himself and fined himself 300 rubles.
Today we will spend the night in the channel. In the last two days it has gotten colder, and the midges and mosquitoes have become noticeably smaller. There are 80 km and three days left to Nizhnevartovsk.
In the evening, there will be sturgeon soup for dinner - Lenya raised a fish tank in the channel, tied to a tree, and “requisitioned” 3 (three) sturgeons for the needs of the starving Volga region. In previous campaigns I always forbade doing this, but this year we are taking a little bit at a time. May the owners of the nets forgive us - there are too many fish everywhere...
I also went to Strezhevoy. Or rather, to the suburbs to the store. The houses are in sharp contrast - some have two-story steep mansions, others have torn roofs and windows that are not rectangular. You can see who drinks and who does the work. And this is the picture throughout Russia. Yes, I have seen the same thing in the world. Capitalism…
Having gathered after a walk along Strozhevoy, we walked along the channel. We parked in front of the road bridge. A beautiful sunset painted the trees all gold, and we posed for a photo against this background...
=23.00= We are lying in the tent - half an hour ago it suddenly rained and wet everything. But the duty officers Sergei and Lyosha are doing their job. We'll have dinner in the rain...
07/26/2007
In the morning we have already crossed the channel from Strozhevoy. Many ferries run between Strozhev and Medvedevo. There were even 6 dump trucks with asphalt on the ferry - they are building a highway somewhere!
Having reached the expanse of the Ob River, we tried to set a sail, but were unsuccessful - the close-hauled wind was not for kayaks. We entered the channel again. Three lines of gas pipeline are laid through it. Signs on the counters informed: “Gas pipeline Anzhero-Sudzhensk - Aleksandrovskoye - Strozhevoy...”. Coming out of the channel, we walked along the right bank, because there was a headwind and a wave with whitecaps.
We walked quite a few kilometers and saw another Voskhod taxiing to the left. We also had to go left - to the village of Svetlaya Protoka. It took about twenty minutes to cross Mother Ob, but those minutes were remembered by everyone forever for their waves. Some reached, in my subjective opinion, up to one and a half meters. There were moments when NN and I took off on ridges with lambs - the bow and stern ended up in the air. There was fear for the kayak of Misha and Leonid - they were going for the first time and their steering wheel was a bad homemade one with one pedal. But the cabin crew showed themselves to be great guys - only the oar blades sparkled in the sun.
In general, Nature treated us kindly this time too. There was no insurance of any kind, in the sense that they would have taken off their jackets, remaining in only T-shirts, and covered the canoes with aprons... Everything was wide open for us, Misha and Seryoga. Everyone was dressed warmly. This is what didn’t make me happy - in the event of an overkill, you won’t be saved. I’m generally silent about life jackets - no one was wearing them. You’ll finish the game, Nikolai Ivanovich, oh, you’ll finish the game...
Having reached Svetlaya Protoka, I wanted to enter the channel, but I listened to NN and we went to the field behind the village - there turned out to be a swamp with clay. I had to walk through liquid clay to get to the houses. The village is kind of shabby - only one house responded. The granny said that there are two stores in the neighboring village of Severnaya, across the channel next to Svetlaya Protoka. We somehow got into the kayaks with feet of clay and crossed the winding channel to the Severny. Village with strange name Northern though it stands on high beautiful shore with cedars and spruces, it also turned out to be dirty and deserted. There are tractors and bicycles standing near the houses, but it seems that everyone is sleeping at home. We barely found the store - the boys on a motorcycle accompanied us all the way.
We bought food for two days for 850 rubles. We were surprised to see a package of Samara milk on the counter for 27 rubles. Our milk is so far away. Doesn't the village have one of its own? The girls noted that Samara milk in Togliatti costs more than in a distant Siberian village on the banks of the Ob. A loaf of bread costs 25 rubles - food is transported on motorboats from the village of Aleksandrovskoye. We told everyone who was curious where we were going kayaking from and where we were going. The boys, standing on a high bank, saw us off, noisily talking about something. On Lyoshik’s advice, we went to a beautiful place outside the village. The “beautiful” place turned out to be a clearing, riddled by tractors with dried lumps of clay. We went ashore to evaluate the clearing. The remains of agricultural machinery lie in the distance. Well, okay, the shore turned out to be all dirty stones, so there’s also a village cemetery nearby. In general, after a long deliberation - there were very beautiful cedars growing next to the clearing (!) - we went further along the channel.
They walked for a long time. The channels divided into streams, again merged and meandered. The banks were not even suitable for mooring - clayey and overgrown with tall grass. There were a lot of channels outside the village of Severny, but my instinct, map and the help of Nature did their job this time too. At some time the noise of a tugboat was heard on the right. I realized that the Ob was nearby and that I had to stick to the channels going to the right. Finally we came out into a channel where there was a noticeable current. I got hooked on the map and saw where we were and also that this channel with a fast current... goes to the left into a large loop with the Ob without connecting. Walking along it means we won’t get out to the Ob by evening. Announced a break.
Fatigue and anxiety were felt in the short remarks of friends on kayaks. But no one asked if we were going the right way - they trusted us. As has happened more than once, I lowered my burning palms into the water, cursed myself with the last words for frivolity and... turned, again mentally, to Nature, to the Ob, promising them that if this time I find a way out to the Ob, more in these I won’t interfere with the ducts. The current slowly carried us, taking a break from working with the oars, past the steep banks, and after the “prayer” I turned my head, looking for at least some kind of opening on the right. And... here it is, a white light flashed between the poplars standing in the water of the bay, then a second time, and... it got dark again. He gave the command to return upstream about ten meters. I looked closely - exactly, behind the trees - our river is turning white. It was only necessary to drag the kayaks across the isthmus about five meters - then the high water flooded the entire shore. Knee-deep in water, and sometimes sitting in a kayak, we walked about thirty meters through the forest.
Then there was a rapid traverse across the Ob and we came out onto the sandy shore near a large rusting reservoir. NN and I were on duty. We cooked it quickly as usual - there was a large amount of firewood piled on the surf strip. The table was made from boards and round timber. The dinner turned out to be “family style”.
But at night the youth were offended. I lit a fire near our tent so that in the morning I wouldn’t wake up the sleepers early while preparing breakfast. Having prepared the dishes for the morning, we went to bed early. The youth, after a walk around the neighborhood, wanted to sit by the fire some more. They added wood to the fire and started talking over beer. It was impossible to sleep. He warned them to keep their voices down. Did not help. He warned us a second time and suggested moving the fire away from our tent. Did not help! Got up. Got out of the tent. He took a bucket of water from the river and said: “Are you swollen, or what?” Don't understand the words? - poured water on the fire. Everyone, naturally, was blown away by the steam from the fire!..
07/27/2007
=11.00= We made one transition. After checking the map, I determined that we were standing on the site of the former Sosnino oil production site. There was some tension at breakfast. There were no usual jokes at the table and intimate conversations...
We made two more crossings and deviated to the right - we went, as the map showed, along the right bank. After some time, a decent-sized bay appeared and... no Ob with its current. We approached the bridge. We asked the fisherman how to get to Nizhnevartovsk? It turned out that it was very simple: - Follow this channel straight and come out just in time for Vartovsk! - that’s what all the locals call Nizhnevartovsk.
We carried the kayaks across the asphalt road. Once again, due to a large spill, water entered the channel formed by the Vakh River, the right tributary of the Ob. Before reaching the city, I saw sand on the left - the bank of the Ob. We are staying on it for the night now. The sand, of course, was cleaner and better at other sites, but here the view of Vartovsk was really good - the city was clearly visible three or four kilometers downstream. Having set up an “obstacle course”, the cabin boy was accepted as a sailor. Congratulations and gratitude were expressed to our: Nadezhda Semyonovna Vasilyeva, Minzaet Minzekremovich Suleymanov and Leonid Dmitrievich Malygin!!!
After a short meeting, we decided that it would not be a sin to celebrate this matter in the evening. Sergey and Lyoshik went on a canoe to the city for vodka - in last time Let's drink to the cabin boys - new sailors and to the end (soon) of the campaign. Leonid, who did not drink, was ordered a large package of juice.
Nizhnevartovsk - Togliatti
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SOURCE OF MATERIAL AND PHOTO:
Team Nomads
The first information in Russian chronicles about the Khanty and Nenets peoples (the old name Ostyaks and Samoyeds) dates back to the 11th century
Matveev A.K. Geographical names Ural: Toponymic dictionary. - Ekaterinburg: Socrates, 2008. - P. 198. - 352 p. — ISBN 978-5-88664-299-5
Dolgorukov V. A. Guide to all of Siberia and the Central Asian possessions of Russia. Year three. - Tomsk: Steam typopolitography by P. I. Markushin, 1896. - 466 p.
Official website of OJSC "West Siberian River Shipping Company".
Ob // encyclopedic Dictionary Brockhaus and Efron: In 86 volumes (82 volumes and 4 additional). - St. Petersburg, 1890-1907. Article by N.V. Latkin.
Ob in the Dictionary of Modern Geographical Names
Ob fly fishing. Book by the famous Novosibirsk fisherman Sergei Shatalov
Kirillov V.V., Bezmaternykh D.M., Yanygina L.V., Tretyakova E.I., Kirillova T.V. Kotovshchikov A.V., Ermolaeva N.I. Factors and indicators of self-purification of the Ob River //
Fundamental water problems and water resources: Mater. III All-Russian conf. with international participation (Barnaul, August 24-28, 2010). - Barnaul: ART Publishing House, 2010. - P. 137-140.
http://www.factruz.ru/world_ocean/ob-river.htm
http://www.surwiki.ru/
http://club.foto.ru/
Wikipedia website
One of the largest water systems in the world is the Ob River. In terms of basin area (more than 2,990,000 km²), it is a record holder and exceeds the territories of France, Germany, Great Britain, Italy and Spain combined. The mighty river carries its waters across the vast territory of Western Siberia, in fact, being the most important transport artery of the region.
According to hydrographic conditions and the nature of the water regime, the river is divided into three parts:
- Upper - from the confluence of the Katun and Biya to the mouth of the Tom River (about 1020 km).
- Middle - from the mouth of the Tom to the mouth of the Irtysh River (about 1500 km).
- The lower one - from the mouth of the Irtysh tributary to the Ob Bay (about 1160 km).
The Ob River basin ranks fifth among all rivers in the world in terms of watercourse area - 2990 thousand km² (together with internal drainage spaces, which occupy 445 thousand km²). The average annual water flow when measured near the mouth is an impressive 12.7 thousand m³/sec.
Many scientists correlate the source of the Ob River with the source of the Katun River, which originates at the Gebler Glacier on the slopes of Mount Belukha. Meanwhile, the Ob is a typically flat river. Coming out of the Altai foothills, it flows for more than 3,000 km through the West Siberian Lowland. Its flow passes through diverse geographical zones: steppe, forest-steppe, taiga, forest-tundra, tundra.
Administrative position
Despite its colossal length, the Ob River flows exclusively through Russian territory. On its way it crosses the following regions: Altai Territory, Novosibirsk and Tomsk regions, Khanty-Mansiysk (Ugra) and Yamalo-Nenets autonomous okrugs. The largest tributary, the Irtysh, originates in China and crosses Kazakhstan, Omsk and Tyumen regions of the Russian Federation.
Length
Regarding the Ob, it is difficult to accurately name its total length. Not because there are “blank spots” (unexplored territories) left on the map of Russia, but because geographical position The Ob River is quite complex due to the extensive network of tributaries in the upper reaches of the Altai (where the river ultimately originates) and the extensive Gulf of Ob into which it flows.
In total, scientists identify four “official” lengths of the Ob, each of which has a scientific basis. In Wikipedia, school textbooks and popular literature, the beginning of the birth of the great Siberian river is considered to be the place where the stormy Altai “sisters” Katun and Biya merge, and the end point is the confluence with the Gulf of Ob (a bay of the Kara Sea). In this case, the length is approximately 3650 kilometers. It must be taken into account that the channel on vast swampy plains is constantly changing, and the length varies accordingly.
Alternative judgments
- If you determine the distance by the longest tributary, then the source of the Ob River corresponds to the source of the Katun - accordingly, the length will increase to 4338 km.
- The Irtysh River also formally claims to be a continuation of the Ob. Since their total length exceeds 4338 km, it is the source of the Irtysh that a number of scientists consider the “beginning of beginnings” - 5410 km.
- Considering that the salinity of the Ob Bay is low and hydrological regime largely corresponds to the river (many freshwater species fish and plants), in scientific terms, part of the bay is the mouth of the Ob River. With this assumption, the length will be maximum - 6370 km.
Upper Ob
Born at the confluence of swift Altai rivers, the Ob River begins its winding path among the hilly plain, sandwiched from the east by the low Salair ridge, from the west by the Priob plateau. The width of the valley is 5-10 km, and below the city of Barnaul - up to 20 km. In this section, the flow abruptly changes several times, moving either along the parallel or along the meridian. Near the city of Kamen-on-Obi, the riverbed widens, forming a large reservoir.
The construction of the Novosibirsk hydroelectric power station led to the flooding of large areas and the formation of the vast Novosibirsk reservoir with a length of about 215 km, a greatest width of 22 km and an average area of 1072 km². Beyond Novosibirsk, the river breaks out into the vast expanses of the Vasyugan Plain. Large tributaries of the Ob River in the upper reaches: Charykh, Alei, Chumysh, Inya, Tom.
Economic activity
The waters of the upper Ob are actively used in national economy. The river is an important transport hub: the ports of Biysk, Barnaul, and Novosibirsk operate here. The reservoir allows you to accumulate significant volumes of water during spring floods and “give it back” during the low-water period, facilitating navigation.
The Ob River is also an inexhaustible source of drinking and technical water for the population and industry. Barnaul and Novosibirsk, the main cities of the region, owe their existence to the “pearl of Siberia,” as the river is respectfully called.
Within the basin are concentrated large deposits natural resources. The Altai Territory has significant deposits of brown coal, salt, polymetals, iron ore, cobalt, nickel, and precious metals. Unique finishing materials are mined here: marble, granite, porphyry, jasper, ocher. Nature is rich in pure drinking water, therapeutic mud, mineral springs. IN Kemerovo region, which is part of the Ob basin, in the area of the Tom and Inya rivers, one of the mining centers of Russia is located - Kuzbass.
Middle Ob
It flows through vast swampy areas of the West Siberian Plain, forming numerous branches, channels and creeks, feeding the world's largest swamps. The typical terrain is a taiga plain among low banks, with many oxbow lakes and lakes in the floodplain. The valley expands to 30-50 km. The river bed is divided into numerous branches and channels, its width gradually increases to 3 km. Large tributaries of the Ob River in the middle section: Chulym, Chaya, Ket, Parabel, Vasyugan, Tym, Vakh, Anar, Yugan, Irtysh.
In fact, it is the main transport artery of the Tomsk region, and important for the Khanty-Mansiysk Okrug. There are ports in the settlements of Tomsk (a tributary of the Tom), Kolpashevo, Kargasok, Aleksandrovskoye, Nizhnevartovsk, Surgut, Nefteyugansk, Khanty-Mansiysk (Irtysh River). The richest oil and gas reserves are concentrated in the middle reaches, the development of which without water transport it would be difficult.
Lower Ob
Before its confluence with the Irtysh, the Ob River flows for many hundreds of kilometers parallel to the 60th meridian, and then turns north. The nature of the terrain is still flat, only closer to the Arctic Circle the Ural Mountains “grow” on the left along the current. The vast taiga gives way to forest-tundra, and then tundra. Among the tributaries, the Kazym, Sosva, and Poluy stand out.
After the confluence of the Irtysh, the Ob becomes a powerful, deep (up to 30 m) river with a wide floodplain, the width of the channel is 1.5-4 km. Near the village of Peregrebny, the Ob is divided into 2 branches: the Bolshaya Ob (right) and the Malaya Ob (left). These branches flow independently for about 450 km. Near Salekhard they merge into one stream about 20 km wide.
There are no large settlements along the entire length of the riverbed (which is more than 1100 km). Only at the mouth of the Ob River is the capital of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug, the city of Salekhard, whose population is approaching 50 thousand people. There are only three large ports in the lower reaches: Priobye, Labytnangi and Salekhard.
Ichthyofauna
In the minds of many residents of the European part of Russia, Siberian rivers are teeming with valuable species of fish, and Siberians eat caviar with spoons every day. In fact, everything is exactly the opposite. The flora and ichthyofauna of the Ob River are noticeably poorer southern rivers, which can include the Volga, Don, Dnieper. For comparison: the “pearl of Siberia” is home to 52 species of fish, while in the Volga there are 76, and in the Amazon, the “richest” ichthyofauna, there are more than 2000.
The Ob River basin is unevenly populated. The least amount of fish is in the upper reaches, most of all in the Ob Bay, which is a feeding area (food supply) for valuable species of anadromous and semi-anadromous species. Fishing has been developed on the river since ancient times. The most valuable inhabitants are sturgeon, nelma, sterlet, vendace, tugun, peled, omul, lamprey, whitefish, muksun, broad whitefish. The upper reaches are inhabited by taimen, lenok, and grayling. In fact, the usual pike, perch, dace, ide, burbot, roach, and crucian carp are caught everywhere: they are the main fishing objects.
If you carefully examine the map, you will notice the repeated changes in the directions of the Ob flow. The river moves from west to east (along the parallel), then makes a 90-degree turn and carries its waters from south to north (meridian flow).
Scientists were interested in this feature. The study of the channel showed that the river repeatedly cuts through thick layers of clay, making its way through them, which in normal conditions impossible. Why, in the absence of significant elevations in the middle and lower reaches, did the Ob seem to bend around an insurmountable obstacle?
Further study of the region revealed the mystery. It turned out that before the global ice age the ancient Ob (like the neighboring Yenisei) descended in a powerful stream from the southern Altai Mountains to the Arctic Ocean along the meridian. But with the onset of the Siberian ice sheet, advancing from the northeast, the current shifted to the west. Only the Ural Mountains were able to “stop” the Ob glacier flowing around it and ultimately direct its waters to the Kara Sea.
Tourism
In recent years, tourism has been actively developing on the Ob. In summer, the region becomes a Mecca for lovers of fishing, rafting, and kayaking. You can go on an exciting trip along the river on a cruise ship, yacht, or boat. Overgrown coniferous trees picturesque shores Novosibirsk reservoir steel favorite place recreation for residents of the metropolis and visiting tourists. Land routes to Altai to the sources of the Biya and Katun are popular among travelers. The region's tourist centers are Biysk, Barnaul, Novosibirsk, Khanty-Mansiysk; there are attractions in Nefteyugansk, Surgut, Salekhard and other cities.
The Ob River is one of the largest rivers not only in Russia, but throughout the world. It flows from south to north across Western Siberia almost parallel to the greatest Russian river, the Yenisei. A mighty stream flows in the north into the Kara Sea. At the confluence there is a huge bay. It is called the Gulf of Ob, and its length exceeds 800 km. This is a kind of river mouth, which in scientific circles is called estuary. It is characterized by the absence of river sediments. Their creation is hampered by sea currents. In Russia, in addition to the Ob Bay, the Yenisei Bay can also be called an estuary.
Great Siberian River Ob
The length of the Ob River is 3650 km. It is longer than the Yenisei, if we take its beginning from the city of Kyzyl (3487 km), where the Small and Big Yenisei merge into a single stream. The river system of the Ob River ranks 7th in length in the world. When we talk about a river system, we mean the length of the longest tributary and the waterway of the river after this tributary flows into it.
So, the Irtysh River flows into the Ob. It is considered the longest tributary in the world and has a length of 4248 km. In second place is the Missouri River with a length of 3,767 km. The Irtysh and the Ob River together form a length equal to 5410 km. This is the legitimate 7th place after the Yellow River with its length of 5464 km. But the 5th place is occupied by the water system of the Yenisei River (5539 km), which consists of the rivers Ider, Selenga, the waterway of Lake Baikal, Angara and, in fact, the Yenisei itself, after the river flowing from Baikal flows into it.
Ob River on the map
The great river originates from the Katun River. The length of the Katun is 688 km. Its source is located on the Katunsky ridge, where Mount Belukha rises majestically with its height above sea level equal to 4506 meters. On the southern slope of the mountain lies a huge ice cap, the Gebler Glacier. It is he who gives life to the water stream that ends its path in the waters of the Arctic Ocean.
The Katun River crosses the Altai Mountains and is considered its main waterway. In the area of the urban settlement Sorokino it merges with the Biya River. The two reunited rivers form a single mighty stream called the Ob River.
The entire river is conventionally divided into three long sections. The first section is called the Upper Ob. It stretches to the confluence of the Tom River. This is the right tributary of the mighty river. Before it, the Ob River flows through cities such as Barnaul, Kamen-on-Obi and Novosibirsk.
In the upper reaches, the mighty river flows its waters between the low banks. The channel is characterized by channels, numerous islands, and riffles. Closer to Barnaul, the channel widens, and the left bank becomes steep. This relief extends to the city of Kamen-on-Obi. In front of him the riverbed narrows. Rocky areas protruding from the water appear. The depth in the upper reaches is on average 2-6 meters. On rifts it decreases significantly. In some places it reaches 0.5-0.6 meters.
The Novosibirsk hydroelectric power station created the Ob Sea (right)
Further on, the Ob River meets the Novosibirsk Hydroelectric Power Station on its way. This dam blocked the river back in the 50s. The length of the Novosibirsk reservoir is 200 km, the maximum width reaches 22 km. The depth reaches 25 meters. The reservoir originates north of the city of Kamen-on-Obi. Local residents call this huge body of water the Ob Sea. Moreover, the stress can be placed on both the first and last vowel.
After the confluence of the Tom River, the middle section of the mighty Siberian stream begins. Its channel is becoming wider and wider. After the confluence of the right tributary Chulym, the Ob River gains strength and becomes truly full-flowing. This is already a taiga zone. The floodplain in these places reaches 20-25 km. It is characterized by numerous channels, and the depth of the river ranges from 4 to 8 meters.
Railway bridge over the Ob
After reuniting with Tom, the Ob steadily turns west. It gives life to such cities as Kolpashevo, Nizhnevartovsk, Surgut, Nefteyugansk.
Finally, the mighty stream meets its left tributary, the Irtysh, and smoothly turns north. This is the so-called Lower Ob. It is characterized by a low left bank and a steep right bank. The left bank part is cut by channels and rich in lakes.
Until the village of Peregrebnoye, the Ob River flows in one channel. Then it bifurcates. Two streams are formed - the Big and Small Ob. The main flow of water flows along the Bolshaya Ob. The river becomes united again 20 km south of Salekhard. This is noteworthy because the depth of the channel almost doubles. Its depth becomes 10-15 meters. The river floods to its full mighty width after Salekhard. It forms a huge delta, the area of which corresponds to 4.5 thousand square meters. km.
Meeting of the Ob River and the Irtysh River (view from space)
Sleeves are formed. The main one is called Nadymsky. This is the right sleeve. The left one is called Khamanelsky. Gradually, the branches merge into a single wide stream and pass into the Ob Bay, which is an integral part of the Kara Sea.
The total area of the river basin is 2990 square meters. km. The great Siberian river flows its main route along the West Siberian Plain. Floods occur in the spring months of April-May. The water level begins to rise when there is freezing. This is largely due to ice jams. The water level can rise to 9 meters, flooding the area around for tens of kilometers.
Sea surface of the Gulf of Ob
The river basin is rich in mineral resources. The richest reserves of gas, oil and coal are concentrated here. Considering the marshy area, peat reserves account for 70% of the country's total reserves. The Ob River is rich in fish. Of these, at least 50 species are commercial. Sturgeon, nelma, sterlet, whitefish, and muksun are common in the mighty river waters. There are pike, burbot, roach, perch, dace, and crucian carp. All this wealth is the property of the state.
Hydropower resources are also of great importance. These are three hydroelectric power stations: Novosibirsk, Ust-Kamenogorsk and Bukhtarma. The last two were built on the Irtysh. Shipping is also important. The navigation period lasts 6 months. In the lower reaches of the mighty river it is shorter by one month. In a word, the Ob River is an important economic component of the state. It connects the mineral-rich north with other parts of the country. Without this river, transporting the raw materials needed for the economy would be a huge problem.
Yuri Syromyatnikov