What to do if the spider does not shed. The most unusual features of spiders
Exotic pets increasingly found in our homes. It is already difficult to surprise anyone with a bright bird or a nimble lizard. Another thing is the tarantula spider. This is such a pet! Many people’s hearts skip a beat at one glance at the “outlandish little animal.” But even such a quiet and unpretentious pet requires courage and some knowledge and skills from the owner. Owners must not only understand the behavior and nutrition of their furry pets, but also understand how the spider molts in order to provide it with the most comfortable conditions for this period.
Why is molting necessary?
The body of a tarantula spider does not have what we are used to internal skeleton. It is covered with an exoskeleton that protects it from external influences. They are attached to the external skeleton, which contains chitin and sclerotin. internal organs and muscle tissue. The skeleton itself is an alternation of hard and soft parts with tactile hairs. The outer shell of the exoskeleton is called the cuticle. The presence of a shell makes life easier for the arthropod, but the rigid structure does not allow the arachnid to increase in size. This means that in certain moment The tarantula must shed its hard shell to continue growing. By the way, the shell shed during molting is called exuvium.
General information about shedding
The molt of a tarantula spider is divided into 4 stages, which transform into one another:
- pre-molt stage;
- direct molting;
- post-molt stage;
- interlink gap.
These stages make up the entire life of a spider. The most noticeable thing for others is the molting process, but the longest in the life of a tarantula is the intermolting stage.
Pre-molt
In Latin, this stage of molting is called proecdysis. The process may take 2-3 weeks. At this time, a new exoskeleton is formed under the old shell.
Pre-molting is activated by complex hormonal processes that have not yet been sufficiently studied.
During the pre-molt stage, the behavior of the tarantula changes dramatically. He stops eating (does not react even to his most favorite treats). The outer cover becomes dull. If the tarantula is light in color, it becomes much darker (this is especially noticeable in the abdomen area). The spider hides and freezes, its mobility is greatly reduced.
In order for a spider to molt successfully, it weaves a mat of cobwebs or seals the entrance to a burrow (nest) with cobwebs.
Shedding
When the molting stage begins, the tarantula spider rolls over onto its back. Exuvial fluid begins to secrete between the old hard and new soft exoskeleton. This is a kind of lubricant designed to slightly soften the old shell.
The molting of a tarantula spider, photos of which are often posted online by owners, begins with the creation of excess pressure inside the shell. The process is poorly understood; how this happens to the end has not been established. The old skeleton bursts and the spider begins to release the cephalothorax. Then the membrane on the abdomen bursts.
Next, the spider's molting continues with the gradual release of its appendages. These are paws, pedipalps, chelicerae. For the tarantula, this is the most difficult moment; if the appendage cannot be released, the spider is forced to discard it. The shedding of the old exoskeleton is accompanied by wave-like contractions of the muscles of the back of the body.
Post-molt
The Latin name of the stage is postecdysis. The actual molting of the spider seems to have ended. But the post-molting stage is very dangerous for the animal. The soft shell of the new exoskeleton is not able to protect its owner. Spiders are very easy to injure. At first, the tarantula continues to lie on its back, with its limbs tucked in. Having rested, the animal turns over on its stomach and shrinks into a ball. The discarded exuvium lies nearby. Then the spider stretches out and begins to move its legs. This helps restore motor activity and stretch the soft exoskeleton. The tarantula spider does not require food for several days. Its chelicerae are unable to grind food. In fact, at this stage one could consider that the tarantula spider's molt has ended. How long will the pet abstain from food? This depends on how quickly the new shell hardens. Food can be added when the spider begins to actively run around its home.
Interlink stage
The transition to this stage occurs as soon as the spider resumes activity. The pet returns to its normal rhythm of life. He eats well and is gaining back the weight lost during forced abstinence.
It is very interesting to watch how the tarantula spider moults. How often this will happen depends on the age of the arthropod and the conditions under which it is kept. Please note that the age of a tarantula is determined not by years, but by the number of molts. The L3 entry, for example, means that the spider has had 3 molts. Young individuals molt once every 3-4 weeks. More adults - once every 2-3 months. Once the male reaches puberty, he stops molting. The last moult of a male is usually called definitive, which means “final.” But sexually mature females do not stop molting. They have to change their tight exoskeleton 1-2 times every year.
Mistakes of inexperienced owners
Inexperienced owners forget to artificially maintain a high level of humidity and increase it further when they notice the approach of molting. Because of this mistake, tarantula spiders grow worse and have a more difficult time surviving the change of shell. They may be injured, lose limbs or die.
The second mistake is trying to help get out of the old exoskeleton. The owners think that the spider is stuck and suffering. Yes, it is difficult for the animal, but any interference with the molting process can lead to the death of the spider.
The third mistake is worry and panic after losing limbs. A spider can throw off a limb during molting if it is injured or a fusion of the external and internal exoskeletons has occurred. There is no need to worry about this. Tarantulas have developed regeneration; after 2-3 molts, the lost limb is restored.
23.03.2009
Arachnids do not have an internal skeleton, but have an external one - an exoskeleton. Muscles, ligaments and internal organs are attached to it.
The exoskeleton does not grow with the animal, so during the life of arachnids it undergoes a natural change - molting. The shed exoskeleton of a spider is called an exuvium.
Conventionally, molting can be divided into several stages:
premolting - the formation of a new exoskeleton under the old one;
molting itself is a change of exoskeleton;
postmolting - restoration of the exoskeleton.
Precautions during shedding
This is a crucial period for any arachnoid breeder, since the life of your pet and the successful outcome of the molt will depend on the conditions you create.
The first thing you should pay attention to is the humidity and temperature in the terrarium.
The duration of all stages of molting depends on temperature. At low temperatures (below 22°C) they will take much longer. Too much high temperature It’s also better not to do this, it should be in the range of 22-28°C, depending on the type.The humidity should be raised immediately before molting so that the animal does not dry out during molting, as it loses a lot of moisture. To do this, you need to place a wide drinker and constantly moisten half of the substrate in the terrarium (for moisture-loving species), or only one corner (for dry-loving species).
Lack of moisture can cause limbs to get stuck in the exuvia. In this case, the spider itself amputates them. During the next molt, a new, small and practically hairless limb grows in place of the lost limb. After 2-4 moults, the limb is completely restored. Scorpions regenerate lost limbs more slowly and often remain without them for life.
There may also be incomplete separation of the abdomen skin, and the spider is left with a dried “patch”. You can try to remove it when the spider is already moving and cleaning itself. Earlier, the soft lining of the abdomen can be damaged.
Before and after molting, spiders and scorpions do not feed, so uneaten food must be removed. Leaving crickets, cockroaches and other insects in the terrarium during molting is very dangerous, as they can damage (gnaw) your pet when it is soft and completely defenseless after changing its exoskeleton.
During all stages of molting, animals should be left alone and not touched with hands. It is especially dangerous to take them immediately after molting. Since the covers are soft, any careless movement can cause them to rupture. Also, do not touch the spider’s exuvium until it takes it out of the nest. Exuvium can only be collected in extreme cases, for example, to determine gender.
You can feed your pets after molting only when the recovery period is over (see timings below). You need to be careful with large spiders - fed ones ahead of schedule they sometimes die. This is especially true for large and voracious species - Theraphosa, Pamphobeteus, Lasiodora and others. It is better to wait a few more days to feed.
Molting of tarantula spiders.
The most common question that comes up is when will my spider molt? Preparation for molting, or the stage of formation of a new exoskeleton (pre-molting), is usually noticeable by the following signs. The spider is quite well-fed (not always) and stops eating and does not respond to food. The spider's integument becomes dull and becomes noticeably darker in light-colored specimens. The darkening is especially noticeable on the abdomen, where the spider has scratched off the hairs. The spider becomes inactive and tries to hide. Just before molting, the spider weaves a mat of web, if it terrestrial view, or closes the entrance to the nest, if this woody look, and also braid the entrance to the burrow of burrowing species. |
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The molt itself goes like this. The spider lies on its back and remains in this position from an hour to a day. (There are exceptions - some spiders molt on their sides or vertically on the web.) At this time, its new exoskeleton separates from the old one, and the liquid between them softens the tough cuticle so that the spider can crawl out of its shell. Molting begins with the bursting of the cuticle between the chelicerae and the cephalothorax. The spider gradually climbs out through this gap - first it extends the cephalothorax with chelicerae, then the abdomen and legs. After he finally gets out of the old exoskeleton, he lies on his back for some time, with his legs bent. Then he begins to move his legs little by little, bending and unbending them. They still don’t listen to him well, as they are very soft and gentle. |
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Post-molting stage. The spider turns over on its belly and sits huddled into a ball. Exuvium lies nearby. Spiders often chew the soft cuticle of the exuvium in the abdomen area. It contains a lot of moisture, and thus the spider replenishes its loss during molting. Then the spider stretches out and lies like this for a long time- its new cover is stretched, and the internal organs are straightened. After molting, the spider cleans itself, stretches, but moves little and lies almost in one place. Within a few days, its integument hardens and the internal organs restore their functions. And he can walk, run, hunt and eat again. There is no need to feed the spider until the recovery (post-molting) stage is completed; it will run away from the food. |
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A few hours or days after molting, the spider removes the exuvium from its nest. It is easy to determine the gender of the spider. If the exuvium has dried out, then it needs to be soaked in water and straightened bottom part abdomen Usually the spider damages this part the most when it chews its former exoskeleton. | |
On the abdomen you need to find the epigastric region - the space between the first pair of lungs. If there is a spermatheca - a special pocket of their hard cuticle of a special shape (it determines the spider’s species), then this is a female. If there is no spermatheca, but on the epigastric region there is a dark spot in the form of an arch, then it is a male. | |
Special attention you need to look for the presence of a cuticle lining the spider's sucking stomach. The pet's life may depend on it. A spider that does not replace this cuticle will not be able to feed normally. This part of the exoskeleton is located inside, at the location of the mouth, and is an elongated “process”. |
Spiders different ages spend on molting different time. The numbers are approximately the same. If the spider 1-3 moults, then the pre-molting stage lasts 4-7 days, molting takes place in 15-30 minutes, the post-molting stage lasts 4-7 days, molting once every 3-5 weeks. Spider 4-7 moults: pre-molting stage - 5-10 days, molting - 30-60 minutes, post-molting stage - 5-10 days, molting once every 4-8 weeks. Spider 8-10 moults: pre-molting stage - 10-15 days, molting - 1-4 hours, post-molting stage - 10-15 days, molting once every 3-6 months. Spider 11-13 moults: pre-molting stage - 14-25 days, molting - 3-12 hours, post-molting stage - 14-25 days, molting once every 6-12 months. Spiders over 14 molts (adult females): pre-molting stage - 20-30 days, molting - 10-36 hours, post-molting stage - 20-30 days, molting once every 1-3 years. Molting of scorpions. The molting of scorpions is not much different from the molting of spiders. During their life, scorpions molt 5-8 times before reaching maturity. Males and females live equally, adults do not molt. |
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Dehydration
Occasionally, the authors received a spider suffering from extreme dehydration and malnutrition, mostly due to poor handling or shipping issues. The first step is to place it, cephalothorax down, in a saucer of water for at least forty-five minutes. If he continues to drink, leave him there for a longer time. The animal should be closely monitored at this time so that its abdomen and lungs are above the surface of the water, otherwise it will choke. If the tarantula's condition does not improve after a few hours, place it in the ICU. The next day, put it back in the saucer, nose down, just like last time. On the third day in the evening, it needs to be transplanted into a permanent, drier terrarium, equipped with the obligatory container with water and stone.
Extreme exhaustion
Tarantulas can survive without food for about a year, sometimes longer. However, this stresses them out greatly and they may be near death.
When it becomes clear that the spider is exhausted, one cricket is offered to it in the evening. If it is not eaten in the morning, remove it. After this, the spider should be offered one or two crickets every other day until it begins to eat. If the spider appears active and able to fend for itself, crickets that are not immediately eaten can be left in the terrarium for a few days, provided they have food - such as a bottle cap filled with soft flakes.
If the tarantula is weakened due to exhaustion, you can offer it food only in the evening. The room should be dimly lit or not lit at all. After turning off the lights and until the morning, no one, not even the owner, should enter the room or otherwise disturb the spider. Of course, once the spider is placed in the main terrarium, neither it nor the terrarium should be moved until it begins to feed normally. Cases of refusal to eat for a period of time are sometimes reported. long time . This happens especially often with Phhxotrichus spatulata, it is even known that one individual of this species did not eat for twenty for no apparent reason. As long as the spider is not losing too much mass and appears generally healthy, there is no need to worry about this.
The owner of a spider that has been fasting for several months can try raising the temperature in the tarantula's terrarium, keeping in mind, however, that 40°C (104°F) is probably the highest safe temperature while trying to stop the hunger strike. Another option is to lightly spray the terrarium with tap water. room temperature using a sprayer. Do not use a spray bottle that has ever been used with pesticides or direct a powerful stream of water at the spider to avoid injuring it.
The authors once had one such spider ( Brachypelma albopilosum), who escaped and could not be caught for more than six months. One morning he was found half dead. He was treated for dehydration (see above) and two days later he was given live crickets. He didn't eat them, probably because he was weak. He also ignored the mealworms offered after this.
All live crickets were caught and one was killed and crushed so that its internal organs and fluids were visible. The dead cricket was propped up against one of the tarantula's front legs and left there for the evening. In the morning the cricket disappeared. The same situation repeated the next evening. On the third day, live crickets were released into the terrarium, which the spider ate at night. The tarantula subsequently made a full recovery.
Problems with shedding
Death versus molting
Before continuing the discussion, we must once again emphasize that a tarantula lying upside down (that is, on its back) is most definitely doesn't die! This is normal preparation for shedding. Dead tarantulas sit in a standard position (eyes up - chelicerae down), legs tucked under them, somewhat resembling a hand clenched into a fist.
Commit or die
Molting is the most significant period in the life of a tarantula spider. Once it begins to molt, it must either moult successfully or die. In some ways, it is similar to the birth of a mammal, with many of the dangers that accompany this process. In a mammal, this occurs once in a lifetime. For a spider - once a year. From experience we know about three types problems that a spider may have during molting.
The Myth of Dehydration
A widely known hypothesis is that a spider kept too dry will have problems molting. It has not yet been conclusively proven and remains a big question.
Since seventy percent of these creatures' mass is water (Stewart and Martin 1970), they are expected to have sufficient fluid to molt even under the harshest conditions. Accordingly, these authors put forward a different hypothesis. Unless the tarantula dies from dehydration, it can extract from internal sources all the water required to keep the old exoskeleton soft. For molting, the humidity of the surrounding air is, in any case, of little significance. This assumption is also supported by the fact that a spider shedding its skin leaves on its inner surface a little water, which is noticeable by its wet shine. Therefore, there must be other reasons for shedding problems (see below).
Slow shedding
Most often, problems with molting occur in tarantulas due to physical weakness due to old age or illness. In this case, the cause of the difficulties is a failure in the physiological processes of the animal.
The worst thing is if the tarantula cannot pull its legs out of the hard rings between the leg segments of the old exoskeleton. These narrow rings are as rigid and inflexible on the fresh skeleton of a very young spider as on the skin of a very old one. The same is true for tarantulas that did not have problems with molting, and for those that had to be surgically removed from the exuvium. The degree of humidity of the old exoskeleton does not matter - the rings remain rigid no matter what.
The spider's physical condition is critical. If, due to age or illness, he does not have enough strength to get out of the skin, he will shed for too long. Over time, the rings of the new exoskeleton will begin to harden. Soon they will lose their plasticity and will not be able to pass through the rigid rings of the old exoskeleton.
What can you do to help your tarantula moult? There is a hypothesis (the authors were not able to test it in practice) that it is useful to lubricate the spider’s joints immediately before molting with a small amount of glycerin using an artist’s brush. The glycerin may soften the rings or serve as a lubricant to make it easier to pull out the new legs. Particular attention, apparently, should be paid to the articulations of the third and fourth segments of the legs, as well as the fourth and fifth (counting from the cephalothorax, that is, the articulation of femur with patella and patella with tibia). After molting, it would probably be a good idea to carefully wash off the remaining glycerin from the new exoskeleton.
Of course, you need to be extremely careful not to damage the newly molted and, therefore, very vulnerable spider.
Beyond these simple steps, we can only hope for the best as shedding season approaches each year.
Jam
Another reason for unsuccessful molting may be damage. If the leg was damaged so badly that the growing scar has covered the entire thickness of the exoskeleton, then during preparation for molting, the scar may prevent the separation of the old exoskeleton from the new one. Actually, the scar will serve as a bond between the old and new skin. During molting, the new exoskeleton, with all its appendages, will not be able to free itself from the old one, and the animal will be trapped.
However, in this case there is still hope for a successful outcome. The tarantula can throw off a stuck leg and complete the moult no matter what. Indeed, the authors had at least one tarantula that discarded a stuck leg during moulting.
If the tarantula's owner notices the problem in time, he can amputate the spider's leg himself. As terrible as it may sound, tarantulas have the advantage over humans that the loss of a leg is accompanied by relatively mild pain. Once the amateur has figured out which leg is stuck, he will likely only need to give it a quick tug, turning it slightly, to separate it from the body.
However, this is a risky undertaking. This can cause irreparable harm to the tarantula. The owner must take full responsibility for such actions.
Some never give up
One of the rarest cases of unsuccessful molting may be an attempt by a sexually mature male to molt after his last molt. The reason why mature males fail to molt successfully may be because their bulbae and tibial hooks become stuck in the old exoskeleton. If the owner detects this possibility, he can coat the tips of the tarantula's pedipalps with glycerin and raise the humidity in his container in preparation for molting. With careful attention, there is a significant chance that the male will survive the molt unharmed. Will he be able to mate with a female? Will he be able to impregnate her?
Surgical method as a last resort
If a domestic tarantula has difficulty shedding its old exoskeleton, it can be helped, but only very carefully. First, make sure that he really has problems, and not just a break. If no progress is observed within six or eight hours, you can already assume the worst and begin an operation to save the animal.
DO NOT move the spider unless absolutely necessary!
If it is important to move it, do so carefully by sliding it onto a piece of thick cardboard. After moving, leave the spider on the cardboard.
Start with a set necessary equipment. You need good, reliable tweezers or tweezers with small but not pointed tips—these can be found at beauty supply stores, school labs, and science supply stores. It is important to have a large magnifying glass or low power jewelry magnifying glass. A low-power binocular microscope (with about five times magnification) from the biology classroom would be ideal. The authors use glass with three times magnification, which is attached to a tape on the head and is usually used for making watches and other delicate work. Good lighting is absolutely essential.
First, dissolve one to two drops of mild liquid dish soap in 235 milliliters (one cup) tap water room temperature. Thoroughly wet the spider that is probably stuck in the old exoskeleton with this solution. Carefully drop the soap solution with a pipette or apply with a cotton swab. Protect the pulmonary tracts from getting the solution into them. If this happens, the spider may choke. Within half an hour, the solution should begin to soften the exoskeleton. Wait another half hour to determine if the spider can free itself. If he doesn't succeed, continue the operation.
Most likely, the spider will already be freed from the carapace and sternum plates, but it may have to be freed from them manually. These plates are connected by relatively thin membranes. If the spider cannot open the plates on its own, these membranes must be torn or cut so that the plates can be removed, and thoroughly soaking the membranes in the solution is vital.
Once the plates are completely separated from the spider, try to determine whether the exoskeleton has been removed from the abdomen. If you're not sure if this is the case, consider it removed and move on to the legs. If it is not clearly separated, you need to try to separate it. Don't be overly aggressive when ripping off this skin. Be especially careful with pulmonary books. The soap solution should not get into them, and the internal membranes, if they have already become visible, should be removed very carefully.
Legs are a particular problem. It is impossible to determine how the new fragile limbs are located in relation to the old segments, since the spider has already managed to partially pull out the legs from the old skeleton. The new membranes are exceptionally vulnerable, and there is a real chance of damaging them while trying to remove the old exoskeleton from the legs. Extreme caution should be used. The powerful rings holding the segments of the old exoskeleton together must be carefully broken and removed with tweezers. Extreme caution should be used. The powerful rings holding the segments of the old exoskeleton together must be carefully broken and removed with tweezers. At this stage, it is necessary to have at least a jewelry magnifying glass or a large magnifying glass. A binocular microscope is much preferable. After this, you need to remove the thinner material covering the segments between the rings.
Work sequentially, releasing one joint and one leg at a time. Get plenty of rest. The most dangerous thing is to make the wrong move due to fatigue, nervousness or impatience. Be careful not to pierce the exoskeleton. The new exoskeleton is still incredibly soft. Important Not damage the connecting membranes or exoskeleton located under the old skin. After removing the old exoskeleton, carefully rinse the soapy solution off the spider with a gentle stream of room temperature tap water.
Congratulations. You are now an orthopedic surgeon specializing in spider exuviectomy. (Bragging about it to your family doctor!)
Post-operative care
After an unsuccessful molt, the tarantula may refuse food for several weeks or even several months. Do not despair. The tarantula may be trying to align its mouth, esophagus and sucking stomach. They usually molt along with their exoskeleton. If this is the problem, the animal must solve it itself. Tarantulas are capable of fasting for an amazingly long time if they have water and, most importantly, if they are in good physical condition.
After such a painful molt and surgical removal from the exuvium, the spider may be so weakened that it will be unable to eat, drink, or even move. This happened to a very old female Aphonopelma of an unidentified species that belonged to the authors. The tarantula experienced an unsuccessful molt on May 17th. One of the authors (SAS) spent several hours with a magnifying glass on his head and various forceps and tweezers in his hands, freeing the spider from its old exoskeleton. After this, the second author (MJS) began literally hand-watering the tarantula twice a week.
The tarantula was given a shallow saucer to drink from. It was raised on one side so that a small puddle of water formed at the opposite edge. The spider was placed on a saucer so that the chelicerae and fangs were immersed in water, and the rest of the body was above. The author carefully watched him so that he did not slip down and choke. All precautions were taken to ensure that water did not enter the openings of the lung books. The tarantula remained in this state for forty-five minutes to an hour, then was placed back into the terrarium. From time to time, about once a week, in the evening, one cricket was killed and placed under the spider's chelicerae, after which the light was turned off. Sometimes the female ate it at night.
By September, the spider had lost significant weight, but periodically ate. He learned to crawl around the terrarium using his fangs and became surprisingly mobile. However, in January he began to have difficulty moving and stopped eating completely. Unfortunately, he died on February 16th.
This tarantula was very old, it was obtained already sexually mature and lived for nine years in captivity. No doubt his death was delayed for several months by the heroic efforts made to save him. Sooner or later, Death takes what is due to it.
Wounds and bleeding
Very little is known about the doses and effects of painkillers such as chloroform and halothane on tarantulas. We know they work because there have been cases of them being used successfully. We also know that if used incorrectly, they will kill the animal. Therefore, they must be used with great caution. In most countries, the state controls the distribution of such drugs, and it is unlikely that a random passerby can freely obtain them. However, small doses of painkillers or prescriptions for them can be given by doctors and veterinarians
Ether has a high tendency to ignite, it is almost explosive. Halothane is believed to lead to liver disease and cancer in the human body. Accordingly, both substances have their drawbacks and should be used with extreme caution and in well-ventilated areas. In any case, the newbie is strongly advised to seek the assistance of a veterinarian for any pain medications.
When using halothane or ether or another inhaled anesthetic, place the diseased spider in a glass container with a lid. These substances are solvents, so a plastic container will not work. Soak a cotton ball with a few drops of painkiller and place it in the container. If the tarantula is able to move or is at least conscious, it will immediately begin to run around the container or writhe. Watch him closely. As soon as it begins to decrease activity, either transfer it to another container, or significantly reduce the concentration of anesthetic vapors through ventilation. Provide support by increasing ventilation when you feel the anesthesia is too strong, and decreasing it when you see the tarantula begin to move. In veterinary and medical operating room surgery, the only job of the anesthesiologist is to hold the patient in some kind of nothingness between the feelings of pain and death thanks to anesthetics. The next best plan is to take the sick tarantula to a veterinarian for pain relief and surgery.
Professional entomologists and arachnologists use carbon dioxide, which has been known for decades, as an anesthetic for insects and spiders. Amateur arachnologists are now also convinced that they can use this remedy on their pets. Carbon dioxide can be obtained from many sources: carbonation of soft drinks, from dry ice, or by adding mild acids (such as vinegar) to regular baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). the main problem when using this remedy lies in its method of application in such concentrations as to, on the one hand, produce anesthesia, and on the other, not to expose the tarantula to danger from vinegar vapor or inaccurately directed contact with dry ice. Thus, it is necessary to observe the safety precautions usual for working with ether.
Professional entomologists and arachnologists also use nitrogen gas and claim that it works much better than carbon dioxide. Nitrogen gas has the considerable advantage that it is a non-flammable substance and also relatively non-toxic. The Earth's atmosphere is approximately 78% nitrogen, but it is relatively difficult for a keeper to obtain nitrogen in concentrations at which it will act as an anesthetic. Compressed nitrogen cylinders can be purchased from companies that sell compressed gases for welding. But such hardware in which nitrogen is in bound form, such as pressure regulators, fire hoses, etc., can be very expensive. Liquid nitrogen is available from many of the same companies (or may recommend other sources), but requires special tools, equipment, and precautions when using it due to its extremely low temperature (-195.8°C, -320.4°F). Nitrogen gas can be produced in the laboratory from fairly simple chemicals (ammonium chloride and sodium nitrite), but this should not be attempted without the guidance of an experienced chemist because such substances can be flammable and even explode if not handled properly.
Some books recommend using cold as an anesthetic. However, there are still some unknowns regarding the exact effect that cold has on animals. Many researchers who frequently use poikilothermic animals in their physiology experiments believe that cold does not produce pain relief until its exposure becomes life-threatening. Cold anesthesia only dulls the ability of motor neurons to activate muscles and the ability of muscles to respond to impulses. Thus, while the tarantula is not quite dead from extreme cold, it can sense everything, but simply cannot react. If this is the case, then we should not use cold anesthesia.
Violations in outer covers
If the outer covering of a tarantula is torn or damaged, this usually causes hemolymph to leak from underneath it. This most often happens when the molt is unsuccessful, or if the tarantula was handled too roughly, or fell from high altitude. If the damage is not too severe, the hemolymph that seeps out from under the damaged integument usually soon dries up, and scabs become clearly visible at the site.
If the damage is minor (for example, on the legs), you should simply place the tarantula in its terrarium and not disturb it for four to five weeks to give the wound time to heal. All this time, the tarantula is fed as usual, and there should always be a drinking bowl with water in the terrarium. The scabs will be removed by the tarantula itself in right time or they will be shed during the next molt. If the damage to the leg is quite serious (that is, it can result in a large loss of hemolymph), there are two options. The damage can be covered with starch grains or thin paper (cloth) (see below). In some cases, the leg may simply be amputated. The latter method may seem very dangerous at first glance, but we remind the reader that the tarantula's limbs are built to allow their removal, which is one of its survival strategies. Although the removal of a limb is traumatic, it is still the best way out than to allow the tarantula to bleed hemolymph to death. This is done like this: securely fix the tarantula in one hand and, taking the injured leg by the thigh, pull it down. Crushed or horribly mangled legs should be removed as soon as possible before the next molt.
Breaks on the prosoma or opisthosoma have the most serious consequences for the tarantula and usually end in its death. Our philosophy is that it is better to try to save an animal and then fail than to not try to save it at all. Therefore, we offer these rescue options simply as experimental ones. The tarantula owner must realize that the damage has already been done and the consequences must be accepted, whatever they may be.
Of primary importance when saving a tarantula are stopping the flow of hemolymph and preventing the growth of the edges of the rupture. Adhesive bandages will not work on a tarantula due to the presence of integumentary hairs. You can make a makeshift bandage from unscented thin fabric or a very soft paper napkin. The absorbent paper bandage is designed to hold the tear together and form a stable matrix for scab formation. Chinese peasants use exactly the same technique to treat wounds and damage to their own body, only they use rice paper for these purposes. And all men who shave have covered their cuts with thin paper. Dry paper should be sanitized by heating in a microwave oven and then placed on the open wound. The paper will serve as a base for the ball, which we hope will seal the wound. If opisthosoma is ruptured, urgently take the animal to a veterinarian, who will certainly be able to find the right way out of the situation if he has broad knowledge of his field and is accustomed to trying new methods. The veterinarian may use a suture to try to bring the edges of the tear together, since the exoskeleton is thin and the opisthosoma is very leathery. However, great precautions must be taken to avoid damaging or puncturing internal organs, i.e. only the exoskeleton should be treated! The suture material must be very High Quality, and the stitches must be very small and precise. In addition, the suture material must be of a type that will spontaneously disintegrate and disappear over time because it will be impossible to remove the non-disintegrating parts once the exoskeleton begins to heal. Any remaining stitches will make subsequent shedding impossible and your pet will die despite best efforts.
While this treatment of the gap may seem a little unusual at first glance, remember that human race sewed wounds for thousands of years. There is no obvious reason why this practice would not work on a tarantula as well. Intravenous administration of Ringer's solution may be considered to compensate for extensive hemolymph loss.
There have also been successes with other methods of sealing wounds in tarantulas. Among them is “triple nail” - a nail polish hardener sold in cosmetic stores, department stores and pharmacies. Other product used with great success– “New Skin” (Medtech, Inc, Jackson, Wyoming, USA) applied to the entire surface of the wound. The authors of this book have heard of one case where cyanoacrylate glue (Super Glue or Crazy Glue) was used to seal a wound.
Any of these products that may use organic solvents should be used with great caution. Not only are they flammable, but their fumes can also harm the tarantula. Use them in a well-ventilated area and away from open fire. Take safety measures to ensure that the vapors of these substances do not fall on the tarantula until they are completely dry and until the harmful substances have evaporated. Please note that none of these products have been approved for use in animals or veterinary medicine. Their use on a tarantula or any other animal should be considered an experimental method and must be approved by the owner, who bears full responsibility for the consequences.
The pharmaceutical industry produces several products that can promote thickening of blood, which is used during surgery on humans and other mammals. They are not usually available to the general public, but can be obtained through your family doctor or by prescription. Two medical products with which the authors of this book are already familiar are Gelfoam (Upjohn) and Surgicel (Johnson and Johnson). There is no doubt that similar products from other manufacturers are available.
If there is a minor disturbance in the outer covering of the tarantula, or after the underlying disturbance has been surgically repaired, one of these remedies may be tried to reduce or stop further bleeding. Simply cut off a small portion of the leaf with a blade or scalpel and apply it to the leaking area. Thin plates work better than thick blocks. Thin plates work better than thick blocks. Carry out this procedure at all sites of hemolymph leakage. If possible, take your tarantula to the vet, as he will do the job faster than you could at home.
Another strategy suggested by the authors was to use cornstarch, flour, or pure, odorless talc powder applied to the wound. The hypothesis is that these substances will interfere with the flow of hemolymph and become the basis for the developing blood clot, and later scabs. We do not have any information regarding what effect fragrances and other cosmetic substances contained in talc may have on tarantulas. Thus, it is better to avoid them.
One keeper, a friend of the authors, had an Aphonopelma seemanni that did not survive the moult well. One leg became stuck in the old exoskeleton and was eventually thrown away to allow the tarantula to free itself. During this difficult struggle, the tarantula split its carapace, and its life was threatened.
The owner talked about it and asked for advice. He was told to sprinkle the crack in the carapace and the escaping hemolymph with a little cornstarch or wheat flour. On top he had to place a small piece toilet paper or unscented thin tissue that is slightly larger than the length and width of the wound. And at the same time, it should not cover the eye tubercle or extend beyond the edges of the carapace.
The improvised bandage worked. The tarantula eventually recovered and shed without problems the following year.
Antibiotic ointments such as mycitracin, bacitracin, polymyxin, neomycin, and lidocaine or any similar drugs should be applied to all wounds to prevent infection. For serious wounds, such ointments should be applied every second day. They are very effective in treatment and only a small amount is required. These drugs are available in pharmacies and without a prescription and are a good addition for any home first aid kit or first aid kit. Never use any strong disinfectants such as iodine, Merthiolate, Mercurochrome, alcohol, or peroxide. The risk of poisoning your pet is too great. Do not handle the tarantula until after its next molt!
It is characterized by the presence of an external exoskeleton, which, on the one hand, is an excellent protection, but on the other hand, is not able to grow with the spider. Therefore, in order to be able to grow, the spider needs to periodically replace the old exoskeleton with a new one. The tarantula cannot exist without its exoskeleton, even for a short time. Therefore, the new exoskeleton, bigger size is formed under the old one. This is possible due to the fact that the new exoskeleton is initially soft and folded. The cyclical change of exoskeletons is called molting. The spider can only grow for a few days after molting, while its skeleton is still soft and stretching. In addition, molting helps cleanse the spider’s body, since during this process toxins are removed from the body. Moreover, during molting, lost or discarded limbs can be restored. This process is called regeneration.
Molting consists of four stages: pre-molt (proecdysis), molting (ecdysis), post-molt (postecdysis) and inter-molt stage. The division is conditional, because in fact, there is a continuous cycle in which only the molting itself can be clearly distinguished, while the remaining stages smoothly flow into each other. The main period of time lasts the intermolting stage and, depending on the age of the tarantula, can vary from several weeks to a year.
Very important feature The molting of the Tarantula is the ability to regenerate, i.e. restoration of lost limbs. If a spider, for some reason, has lost one leg, then within three to four molts it will be completely restored. In our practice, there was a case of restoration of four limbs at once. The tarantula could not even feed on its own. He was fed from tweezers! He is doing great now! The tarantula's bristles are also restored. A spider with a completely bald abdomen becomes shaggy and beautiful again.
Molting is a critical moment in the life of a tarantula, therefore it is strictly forbidden to disturb the spider during pre-molt, molting and post-molting, because. you can easily damage it. It is also necessary, during these three periods, to completely eliminate the presence of food insects in the terrarium, as they can kill the tarantula.
During all periods of molting, touching the spider, much less picking it up, is strictly prohibited!
Premolt (proecdysis)
The premolting process takes from several days to 2-3 weeks; during this period, the active formation of a new exoskeleton occurs. Activation of the premolting process is associated with complex hormonal processes and its mechanism is still poorly understood. The onset of pre-molt can be determined by changes in the spider's behavior. The tarantula stops feeding and becomes less mobile. Even calm species can become irritable and aggressive. Also during this period, the sensory functions of the tarantula are significantly dulled. In tarantula spiders, which defend themselves by “combing,” the upcoming molt can be recognized especially well. Because the “bald spot” that he rubs on himself turns from the color of his skin to black. If molting is imminent, most species weave a small mat for themselves and then roll over on their back to molt in this position. At this time, exuvial fluid is released between the old and new exoskeletons (this process is called apolysis), which softens the old exoskeleton and acts as a lubricant.
Molting (ecdysis)
For successful molting, tarantula spiders need an environment with high humidity air from 80 to 90%. Also, during this phase the spider should not be disturbed under any circumstances.
At the beginning of the molting process, the spider creates excess pressure inside the body. It has not yet been fully studied exactly how this happens, but most likely the internal pressure increases due to the air swallowed by the spider, or due to the pumping of hemolymph (an analogue of blood). This causes the old exoskeleton to burst and the carapace to separate, releasing the tarantula's cephalothorax. At the same time, the old lining of the abdomen bursts.
Next, there is a process of gradual release of the tarantula's appendages (paws, pedipalps and chelicerae) from the old exoskeleton. This is the most difficult and dangerous stage molting, it can take from a couple of minutes to several hours. It is possible that the spider will not be able to pull out any of the appendages and will be forced to discard it. The release of the abdomen begins with tears that spread from the cephalothorax to the back of the body. The chitinized abdominal cuticle, wrinkled from lack of hemolymph, is shed by wave-like contractions of the muscles of the posterior part of the body. While the abdomen release phase just described is taking place, the limbs are also released. This is undoubtedly the hardest part of the shedding process. First of all, this is where difficulties can arise. Even a small grain of sand, at the moment of release from the old skeleton, can cause damage to the Tarantula.
But remember! Do not try to help the spider under any circumstances, as best case scenario- you will harm him, at worst, you can easily kill him.
After exiting the old exoskeleton, the spider remains in the same position for some time and smooths out the folds on the new, not yet hardened, exoskeleton. This happens due to the pumping of hemolymph (spider blood) from the abdomen (opisthosoma) to the cephalothorax (prosoma). At this time, the tarantula is absolutely defenseless. It is necessary to ensure that there are no food insects left in the terrarium, which can easily damage it. Mites are also a threat to the spider during the molting process.
Postmolt (postecdysis)
After molting, the new exoskeleton is still soft and cannot yet provide the tarantula with reliable protection. During this period, the spider is very easy to injure. Also, during the post-molting period, an aggravation of sensory functions occurs, this is due to the fact that during molting the hairline is completely renewed. The spider rests at this time and continues to lie motionless for up to half an hour or more.
After a rest phase, he begins to regain the function of his legs with the help of “gymnastic” movements. Then he returns to his normal position. The spider is now still quite soft, and the chelicerae are light, sometimes reddish. It will take several days for the spider's skeleton to become completely solid again. Growth occurs in this interval. Only after a week does it make sense to place the spider's prey. Before this, he is not yet able to kill and crush prey with his still too soft chelicerae. The post-molting stage lasts from 2-3 days to a month, depending on the age of the tarantula. The older the spider, the longer this period.
Intermolal stage
The transition from the post-molt to the inter-molt stage is conditional; it can be determined by the behavior of the tarantula - the spider begins to actively feed and completely resumes activity.
It is important to note that the age of spiders is usually calculated not in the years we are accustomed to, but in molting years. The age of a tarantula is indicated by the Latin letter “L”, to the right of which is the number of molts (for example, L1, L6). The time between molts varies not only from the age of the tarantula, but also from the conditions under which it is kept. So, at comfortable temperature and humidity parameters and at good nutrition a spider can grow much faster than one left to its own devices.
Young tarantula spiders molt approximately every 2-4 weeks. With age, the intervals increase to 2-3 months or more. Male tarantulas molt until they reach puberty and then don't molt again (but there are exceptions to the rule). Their last molt is called the “multiply molt” or definitive molt.
Adult female tarantula spiders continue to molt 1-2 times a year. Moreover, with age, the intervals between molts increase.
Mistakes and problem solving for a novice terrainist
Based on experience and analysis of the practice of keeping tarantulas in captivity, three problems (factors) can be identified that arise during the molting period and immediately before molting, and affect the molting process and its success. It should be noted that as a result of molting, the spider either goes into new age, either loses limbs or dies “for some unknown reason.”
The first problem lies in the peculiarities of water metabolism in tarantula spiders. The fact is that the tarantula's body consists of more than 70% water. During the molting process, it is physiologically involved most of water reserve of the spider, and if the tarantula is weakened or dehydrated for any reason, then for successful molting it is necessary to attract an additional moisture resource directly from environment. In nature, maintaining the proper level of humidity is provided by a hole or other shelter. In captivity, such humidity must be maintained artificially, that is, regardless of which group it belongs to. specific type tarantula, during the molting period it is necessary to maintain more high level humidity compared to normal conditions content, especially if the spider’s condition causes any concern. High humidity air ensures, at a minimum, the maintenance of the old exoskeleton of the spider in a softened state. Therefore, it is advisable to spray the terrarium with the spider with warm water for several days immediately before molting.
The second problem associated with spider molting occurs in physically weakened and late-life spiders. The most great danger This is due to the fact that the tarantula will not be able to stretch its legs through the rings of the old exoskeleton in this case, and then the molting process becomes longer. During this time, the old exoskeleton will gradually dry out and compress the new shell of the spider, which, in turn, hardens, loses its elastic properties, and the passage of limbs through the rings of the old exoskeleton will be almost impossible.
In this case, it is proposed to help the tarantula apply small quantity glycerin, which helps soften the old exoskeleton and ensures the unhindered passage of its legs through the old shell.
And finally, another reason causing possible difficulties with tarantula molting is associated with existing damage to the old exoskeleton. If the scar formed as a result of damage is large enough, then it serves as a place for “adhesion” of the old and new exoskeletons. Therefore, the corresponding area of the tarantula’s body appears to be captured, and its passage through the old shell turns out to be virtually impossible. In such a case, the spider often throws away the limb captured in this way, which is then restored. Such “self-mutilation” is also observed if the spider receives severe damage to its leg, for example, as a result of a bite from a food animal or from one spider being bitten by another.
If this situation happens to your pet, then you can try to artificially remove the spider’s limb, which is unable to shed, but this operation is entirely under your personal responsibility (the rupture must occur at the junction of the leg segments).
In conclusion of the problems associated with molting, we note that sexually mature males attempting to molt, in the overwhelming majority of cases, die during the molting process.
Exuvius
The exoskeleton remaining after molting is called exuvium. Exuvius allows you to explore internal structure tarantulas, as well as determine their gender before reaching sexual maturity. You should not take the exuvium out of the terrarium at the first opportunity, so as not to disturb the already stressed spider. But you shouldn’t wait a long time either, because the “skin” can dry out.
An old skeleton makes good stuffed animals, provided the spider is an adult, of course. A little patience and you will have a nice collection.
Tarantula spiders, like all spiders, are capable of regularly updating their exoskeleton. This process is called molting. First of all, thanks to molting, the tarantula grows. After all, the body of a spider cannot grow during the period between molts, since it, with the exception of the back part, consists of hard chitin. The spider can only grow for a few days after molting, while its skeleton is still soft and stretching. In addition, molting helps cleanse the spider’s body, since during this process toxins are removed from the body. Moreover, during molting, lost or discarded limbs can be restored. This process is called tarantula regeneration.
Intervals between moults in tarantulas
Young tarantula spiders molt approximately every 2-4 weeks. With age, the intervals increase to 2-3 months or more. Male tarantulas molt until they reach puberty and then don't molt again (but there are exceptions to the rule). Their last molt is called the “maturity molt” or definitive moult. Adult female tarantula spiders continue to molt 1-2 times a year. Moreover, with age, the intervals between molts increase.
The period of preparation for the molting stage
Tarantula molt, as a rule, begins with a refusal of food and solitude, their gait becomes more swaying. In tarantula spiders, which defend themselves by “combing,” the upcoming molt can be recognized especially well. Because the “bald spot” that he rubs on himself turns from the color of his skin to black. If molting is imminent, most species weave a small mat for themselves and then roll over on their back to molt in this position.
The tarantula's molting process
For successful molting, tarantula spiders need an environment with high air humidity of 80 to 90%. Also, during this phase the spider should not be disturbed under any circumstances. For example, there should be no food insects in the terrarium. They will only disturb the spider and may even gnaw it and cause great harm to it.
The molt itself is divided into three phases:
- opening of the carapace,
- release of opisthosoma,
- stretching of limbs.
The opening of the cephalothorax begins with an increase in heart rate. As a result of this, hemolymph (body fluid) is intensively supplied to the cephalothorax, which causes extrusion of the chitinous membrane of the cephalothorax. Eventually the carapace opens like a lid. The release of the abdomen begins with tears that spread from the cephalothorax to the back of the body. The chitinized abdominal cuticle, wrinkled from lack of hemolymph, is shed by wave-like contractions of the muscles of the posterior part of the body. While the abdomen release phase just described is taking place, the limbs are also released.
This is undoubtedly the hardest part of the shedding process. First of all, this is where difficulties can arise.
DO NOT UNDER ANY CASE TRY TO HELP THE SPIDER MOLD, BECAUSE AT BEST YOU WILL HURT, AND AT WORST, YOU MAY JUST KILL IT!!!
Tarantula spider after molting
After a very tense molting spider first rests and continues to lie motionless for up to half an hour or more. After a rest phase, he begins to regain the function of his legs with the help of “gymnastic” movements. Then he returns to his normal position. The spider is now still quite soft, and the chelicerae are light, sometimes reddish. It will take several days for the spider's skeleton to become completely solid again. Growth occurs in this interval. Only after a week does it make sense to place the spider's prey. Before this, he is not yet able to kill and crush prey with his still too soft chelicerae.